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Thread: Pdr 101

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    1,922

    Default

    I have been wanting to ask about this -- like is it something I should try to learn? Or is it a hoax / scam?

    The videos look too good to be true so I figured it's gotta be a scam.
    I have seen a few that sucked..and one that does great.He is a storm chaser from Texas that another shop here uses.He does a great job .He also made 10 grand in a little over 4 weeks..

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    231

    Default

    I have purchased tools from several places. The videos I like as far a vidios go, i like pdrcoach.com and tools i like pdrfinessetools.com. tHERE IS ALSO A-ONE TOOLS, dentcraft, ultradent, dentgear. check out doording.com been very busy, i'll try and post more soon. weeason here, and we have been booked up.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    231

    Default Training

    Have been helping out with training latly. If any are interested let me know!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NOT in San Francisco bay area California
    Posts
    28,799

    Default

    Well, I have been doing pretty good. I have to tell you guys, when there is nothing on the line, it is much easier. Just today I did a new Subaru deck lid and it turned out real nice.

    But I have a funny story. Our parts guy had made some deal with someone for a trade. His end of the deal was to get a couple of dents in the guys Dodge pickup fixed. In exchange he was going to give me an RC car for my boy.

    I started working on the truck and found that the metal was REAL strong, I just couldn't do anything with it. I was worried if I pushed any harder I would end up with an "outie" and maybe even cracked paint. I told him so and the boss told him he would get the PDR guy out to the shop to do it. It would be 150-200 bucks. Now, the trade he was doing was for about $600 in goods so this was still a killer deal.

    I walked away and later the boss came to me and said that the production manager had said he could do it and jumped on in. Now, I know this guys capibilities and this trucks PDR was NOT in his world.

    I walked out there and sure enough, it was all screwed up and beyond PDR hope!

    You have to know when to quit.

    Brian

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NORTH JUAREZ
    Posts
    3,287

    Smile grrr,

    Quote Originally Posted by Len
    Brian
    You talked me into purchasing a PDR kit. I have a couple questions....

    Are you drilling holes for most access? If so what are you using to make the hole and are you plugging them when you're finished? Got any pictures?

    I see a new "Basics of Basics" coming

    all this talk about metal rods how about a link for a good flouresent light to use with the tools?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Something like this works well and is available at most office supply stores.


  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    middle tenn
    Posts
    32

    Default

    good post Chevydoula,I have been doing PDR for many years and i found out that practice defiantly makes perfect,a good light and good perception helps too also not every one turns out the way you want it to.There is a big problem with finding something to push against as most of dents are very hard to reach,In many cases you have to disassemble things to gain access then you just might as well grab a grinder and a hammer and fill it.I use me own experience to guide me whether to PDR it or grind,fill and paint it.BTW before i went out and paid a bunch of money for tools i went down to my local walgreens store and bought me a DING KING "as seen on tv" and played with it a bit till i was sure i wanted to invest in PDR tools.I still have that thing and i use it quite often cause i can get to dings that you can`t access without drilling holes and disassembling,it works quite well actually.
    P.S. i have gotten many strange looks from other bodymen when i pull this thing out and fix a dent right in front of their eyes,LOL."cha-ching show me the money"

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    fillmore california
    Posts
    129

    Default

    i like your light idea. i use the kind that has a magnetic base so i can attach it anywhere on the piece i'm painting

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    231

    Default Lights

    A man name bob hullett has an awsome light set up, and there are also mini lights. We do not use magnets as you may scratch the paint- which defeits the purpose. We use suction cups. Been awhile since i have been on here. Looks like the idea has picked up. Glad to see it.

  10. #25

    Default tried and tried

    Quote Originally Posted by 68-chevyman
    Take a rubber mallet and wack the panel free from bracing. You should make a dent that is fairly shallow, and about as big around as a golf ball. get it in the light and mark the sweet spot int the center by using the bulls eye methodFinding the center of the dent. Make your first push there. You should notice that when you push that you can actualy hold the dent in place to seem like it is gone. wHEN YOU RELEASE IT IS STILL THERE. wE WILL WORK CLOCKWISEin a inward spiral with lots & lots of pushes, almost as if you were the second hand on the clock. After each circle is completed, push the sweet spot . each time you will notice it leaving. Start back at 12 o'clock, and go round in a smaller circle this time. .......... till it is gone. each time checking the sweet spot. If you see any high spots, you can stop to knock them down. The only way you will truly get it is hours of practice. I'll post more after someone tells me they tried it.
    hi 68 chevyman i tried everything still gettin oilcanned got any ideas please post more thanks

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Southern Missouri
    Posts
    426

    Default

    What are you working on, learning PDR? The oil can may be from 1 or more problems. To large of dent to PDR(Some dents are just to large or sharp), a hiding crown or to dull of a tool. On large dents we flaten the bottom of the dent with a sharp tool tip then use a more rounded tip to push the bulk of the dent (move metal) then back to the sharp tip to finnish and blend.

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