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Thread: Just a thought about applying clearcoat

  1. #1
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    Default Just a thought about applying clearcoat

    I've only done this with basecoat and primer. I add the max of recommended reducer to get it thin and lay flat, it works well for me. Particularly with lacquer primer. 150-200%!

    Clearcoat has been very difficult for me on the other hand. I don't want to play jr. chemist, but wonder what would happen if I go beyond the recommended "up to" 10% and add 20% reducer and just lay extra thinner coats?

  2. #2

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    I always add more than recommended for clear, you just have to
    let it flash a lot longer between coats to fight die-back.
    Works for me.

  3. #3
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    Maybe I'm on to something...this may explain why medium activator gives me trouble even around 70*. Thanks!

  4. #4
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    In most cases we will use fast reducer and hardener in primer and fast reducer in base coats when the temperature is 70 or below. In clear that is only going on one or two panels we use fast reducer and hardener but when we are spraying a complete car we usually go with medium reducer and hardener at 70 to 80 degrees F so that it flows out a little smoother.

  5. #5
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    All I know is that 20 yrs ago, the last time I painted a whole car, the guy at NAPA told me to use a 1.6 tip in my Devilbiss FLG spray gun. So I bought one. The clear came out with acceptable OP but I wanted a mirror finish, as it's a show car. Wet sanded w/ 1200 and polished it, looked perfect. Not even one sand through to the base, 3 coats! I'm don't remember the speed of reducer or activator though.

    Now I know a 1.6 tip is huge but it worked fine. The CC also laid down a lot easier back then as I remember it. I haven't painted enough lately to really say but the newer CC just seems different to me. It may be because I bought the cheap stuff.

    Maybe since I used the top of the line Martin Senour paint back then it worked so well? I'm also wondering if the older CC was thicker or something? Just sayin'...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Buttafucco Collision View Post
    All I know is that 20 yrs ago, the last time I painted a whole car, the guy at NAPA told me to use a 1.6 tip in my Devilbiss FLG spray gun. So I bought one. The clear came out with acceptable OP but I wanted a mirror finish, as it's a show car. Wet sanded w/ 1200 and polished it, looked perfect. Not even one sand through to the base, 3 coats! I'm don't remember the speed of reducer or activator though.

    Now I know a 1.6 tip is huge but it worked fine. The CC also laid down a lot easier back then as I remember it. I haven't painted enough lately to really say but the newer CC just seems different to me. It may be because I bought the cheap stuff.

    Maybe since I used the top of the line Martin Senour paint back then it worked so well? I'm also wondering if the older CC was thicker or something? Just sayin'...
    Most modern urethane topcoats are shot using a 1.3 or 1.4 fluid tip and you need to be VERY careful not to breath the hardened paint as you spray.

    Try to follow the paint manufacturer's recommendations on mixing and spray gun requirements.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    you need to be VERY careful not to breath the hardened paint as you spray.
    I hear 'ya! That stuff will kill you over time. I always wear a mask and NEW carbon filter every time I spray. Box fan in the window as well. Especially after I took my 20 yr. old mask out of the box it was stored in...believe me when I say, that thing was totally disentegrated! It must have been the overspray on it that caused it to decompose. Wish I had a photo to share, it proves to me how lethal the chemicals used in modern auto paint really are.

    My next full paint job (if it happens) will be with water based. We're never too old to learn something new.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Buttafucco Collision View Post
    I hear 'ya! That stuff will kill you over time. I always wear a mask and NEW carbon filter every time I spray. Box fan in the window as well. Especially after I took my 20 yr. old mask out of the box it was stored in...believe me when I say, that thing was totally disentegrated! It must have been the overspray on it that caused it to decompose. Wish I had a photo to share, it proves to me how lethal the chemicals used in modern auto paint really are.

    My next full paint job (if it happens) will be with water based. We're never too old to learn something new.
    There are a lot of downsides to wearing carbon filter masks, most masks of that type only work well for 8 to 40 hours based on their quality and they are negative pressure which means they have a tendency to leak much more than positive pressure (supplied air) masks. Carbon filter masks are a lot less expensive but are a good example of "you get what you pay for". If possible purchase a supplied air system, do the spraying then sell it when you've finished the spraying.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    they have a tendency to leak

    I don't have facial hair, and my new mask is a good one. None the less, I know what you mean. Even though I keep it in a zip lock bag inbetween coats. At my age (63) I've been lucky, breathing silica dust and paint fumes my whole life from rattle cans I used to paint my bikes with as a kid. Maybe bc I don't smoke has a lot to do with having healthy lungs. My dad died from lung cancer when I was 28, from smoking heavily, I will say it's an awful way to go.

    If HF sells supplied air, and it's the quality of their spray guns I recently looked at, perhaps I'll look on craigs for a decent used one.

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