Stripping paint

[fj5gtx]

Any one use one of these yet? I usually am trying to scuff and shoot, rather than completely strip to bare metal... but I've heard these are really fast at getting to bare metal when its justified. Eastwood has had these for a while, but now HF is selling, what looks to be, pretty much the identical item for less.

[Len]

I've never seen one of those but I like the looks of it. The drums look like they would do a good job without heating or damaging the metal. If I find a warehouse the sells them wholesale I'll check it out.

[Len]

Here's one on Amazon for $100. If anyone buys it let us know how it works.

spta.jpg

[Caveman49]

I’ve just joined this forum, lots of great info, plan on going through this site and soaking up as much knowledge as I can. I’m currently working on my daughter’s 66 Comet, just having fun and taking my time.

I saw the post on the Surface Conditioning Tool (SCT), and hope I can add a little something. I bought the last one at our local HF, and all I can say is it’s a beast. It came with 3 sanding drums, I started on the passenger side fender while off the car, found it easier to mount it back on the car. I was using the 120 grit drum, it was doing ok but was taking a little more time then I liked. So I put the 40 grit on, and wow, it gets it. I attached a couple pics of the before and after of the fender, hope it comes out.

As far as just scuffing to prep for paint I don’t know, haven’t tried it for that. It does have (I believe) a 240 grit drum as well, that may do a fairly decent job on surface prep. I also see they sell narrow drums, like an 1” or 1 1/2”, to fit these, they would probably be very useful as well. Problem is now that these things are becoming more popular, the machine and drums are getting hard to find. I know I went back to HF, they were sold out, mgr said them things have all of a sudden become hot!

Motor Safe,
Lee

[Len]

Hi Lee welcome aboard.
I haven't used that type of machine but I would think it would not do the type of sanding that would be good for a scuff and shoot but give it a try and let us know what you think. In most cases we would either sand the old coating by hand or using an orbital sander with something between 220 and 600 grit disks.

[Caveman49]

Thanks for the welcome Len. Just to let you and others know, I’m more a hobbiest in this field, have done paint n body messing around for years, but nothing like I plan on doing with my daughter’s Comet.

Now that I’m in the retired life cycle I can take my time and try to do this car as best I can, thus joining this forum. I see so much here, it’s like a treasure trove of unending great information to read. Working on cars have always been what I love to do, but now it’s really great therapy for me (I’m in my 70s).

My main concerns are getting the body stripped down and primed (plan on using epoxy primer, don’t know which product yet), then laying down some miner bondo work (the car metal is in great shape other then the surface rust and a few dents n dings), respray epoxy and go from there. I do most of this work in my shop and outside as wx permits.

I was going to ask if I could use the picklex-20 on the clean metal and hold off from priming until I get my paint n paint guns bought, maybe a couple weeks. I am concerned about flash rust, and possible extra work it may cause.

Thanks for any and all responses.

[Len]

Thanks for the welcome Len. Just to let you and others know, I’m more a hobbiest in this field, have done paint n body messing around for years, but nothing like I plan on doing with my daughter’s Comet.

Now that I’m in the retired life cycle I can take my time and try to do this car as best I can, thus joining this forum. I see so much here, it’s like a treasure trove of unending great information to read. Working on cars have always been what I love to do, but now it’s really great therapy for me (I’m in my 70s).

My main concerns are getting the body stripped down and primed (plan on using epoxy primer, don’t know which product yet), then laying down some miner bondo work (the car metal is in great shape other then the surface rust and a few dents n dings), respray epoxy and go from there. I do most of this work in my shop and outside as wx permits.

I was going to ask if I could use the picklex-20 on the clean metal and hold off from priming until I get my paint n paint guns bought, maybe a couple weeks. I am concerned about flash rust, and possible extra work it may cause.

Thanks for any and all responses.

As long as the car is kept dry/inside the Picklex will stop surface rust from forming.

[Caveman49]

One more question about the picklex-20, it shows 3 examples and I take it the pint is the spray bottle,no? Does the qt. size come with a spray bottle? Thanks.

[Len]

One more question about the picklex-20, it shows 3 examples and I take it the pint is the spray bottle,no? Does the qt. size come with a spray bottle? Thanks.

No, the only sprayer is with the pint bottle, if you buy that larger size you have to supply your own sprayer. I use old Windex sprayers.

[fj5gtx]

I’ve just joined this forum, lots of great info, plan on going through this site and soaking up as much knowledge as I can. I’m currently working on my daughter’s 66 Comet, just having fun and taking my time.

I saw the post on the Surface Conditioning Tool (SCT), and hope I can add a little something. I bought the last one at our local HF, and all I can say is it’s a beast. It came with 3 sanding drums, I started on the passenger side fender while off the car, found it easier to mount it back on the car. I was using the 120 grit drum, it was doing ok but was taking a little more time then I liked. So I put the 40 grit on, and wow, it gets it. I attached a couple pics of the before and after of the fender, hope it comes out.

As far as just scuffing to prep for paint I don’t know, haven’t tried it for that. It does have (I believe) a 240 grit drum as well, that may do a fairly decent job on surface prep. I also see they sell narrow drums, like an 1” or 1 1/2”, to fit these, they would probably be very useful as well. Problem is now that these things are becoming more popular, the machine and drums are getting hard to find. I know I went back to HF, they were sold out, mgr said them things have all of a sudden become hot!

Motor Safe,
Lee

Excellent, just the feedback I was looking for - thank you ! How much time did it take you to strip that fender with the 40 grit drum?

[Caveman49]

Once I changed the drum to 40 grit, it probably took about 15 minutes or so, not long but I really didn’t keep track of the time. I was amazed at the difference the drum made. Kept the rotation speed at about half way, it cranks up pretty fast if you need it to.
I think the real test on this machine is going to be when I do the roof, it’s large, and the machine is a tad on the heavy side, we’ll see.

[bmarler]

Once I changed the drum to 40 grit, it probably took about 15 minutes or so, not long but I really didn’t keep track of the time. I was amazed at the difference the drum made. Kept the rotation speed at about half way, it cranks up pretty fast if you need it to.
I think the real test on this machine is going to be when I do the roof, it’s large, and the machine is a tad on the heavy side, we’ll see.

how much heat does it put into the panel when you're using it?

[Len]

how much heat does it put into the panel when you're using it?

I'm guessing but by the looks of those drums they look like they would probably generate less heat than a rotating sanding disk. But I'm guessing.

[Caveman49]

how much heat does it put into the panel when you're using it?

From what little I used it on the fender, it wasn’t that bad with heating the working area. I did move it continuously trying not to keep on one spot too long. It does cut through the paint and bondo (there was a small dent on the front right above the light) quite easily, it was the heavier rust areas I had to work more, still minimal heat.

I also keep the speed of the drum a little over halfway, worked great. I’m happy with the tool. Going to try my DA on the lower portion of the fender and sorta compare the difference. Will post pics when I get the whole fender done, just need to get back at it.

[Caveman49]

Well I did the DS fender today, took about an hour and a half to do the whole fender. I will say it will heat the metal if you run it too long in one area. I tried it on a flat area on top and it got real hot to the touch, almost burning the hand hot. So needless to say, I moved the SCT often and continuous. The drum is wearing down, but is still in fairly good useable shape.
Here are some pics of before and after.

782F11C1-EB63-4F8E-83FF-D7425539D38E.jpg410D1DDD-8A8D-4824-9B2C-7B8B7A08CB2A.jpg