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Thread: Stripping a chrome pot metal dash.

  1. #1
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    Default Stripping a chrome pot metal dash.

    I have my 67 skylark. It has a large die cast dash insert that goes from door to door.
    It is chromed all over, then they came back and sprayed some (probably lacquer) silver paint and some black paint on certain areas.

    I want to re-paint this and think that stripping off the existing paint might be the best way to get a decent finish.




    So what can I use to strip off the silver and black paint that also won't damage the chrome?

    Thanks
    LET'S GO DARWIN!

  2. #2
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    I've used paint stiper and lacquer thinner with great success. Just remember it will not be unusual to see pitting coming through between the chrome and pot metal as it can still oxidize. You may have to scuff hit it with a good HB primer and re-sand prior to paint.

  3. #3
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    HB Primer? What does HB stand for? (edit: OH, High build primer, like a urethane 2k?)
    Yes, there are plenty of rust pits around, many on the part that stays chrome sadly.
    I was quoted $1500 to re-chrome this so I decided that the corrosion pits are "patina" now.
    LET'S GO DARWIN!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Houndogforever View Post
    HB Primer? What does HB stand for? (edit: OH, High build primer, like a urethane 2k?)
    Yes, there are plenty of rust pits around, many on the part that stays chrome sadly.
    I was quoted $1500 to re-chrome this so I decided that the corrosion pits are "patina" now.
    Actually $1500 isn't a bad amount for that job. Eliminating the pits can be labor intensive and would really make that piece pop.

  5. #5
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    I used the aircraft stripper. Poured it on, scrubbed it with a soft brass brush and that shit just fell off.

    Soaped it up and sprayed it all off. I will get lacquer thinner and a tooth brush for any corners.

    Yes, getting new chrome would be amazing, but it is in really good shape, just a few dozen little pits formed. Sigh, is what it is. Once I get it finished I will post an update picture.

    IMG_0817.jpg

    This is after rinse.
    LET'S GO DARWIN!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Actually $1500 isn't a bad amount for that job. Eliminating the pits can be labor intensive and would really make that piece pop.
    When I first took it out there, a guy said $450 and I left it. Next day he called up and said, "my boss said either that goes away or I do". I couldn't see making that guy lose his job over a mistake so I took it back home.
    LET'S GO DARWIN!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Actually $1500 isn't a bad amount for that job. Eliminating the pits can be labor intensive and would really make that piece pop.
    Len is correct, 1500 is not a bad price. I'm sure you are familiar with how triple chrome plating is done and it is very. very labor intense. To get rid of those pits will take hours of copper buffing and re-dipping. Yes, a urethane high build (HB) primer will get rid of those pitting marks but will take a lot on intricate sanding. So, get a 12 pack and go to town....patiently.

    My personal preference would be to go back chrome, as Len says it would really pop. Nothing like getting an old part restored and re-chromed but I do understand it is very expensive. I would hate to add up my annual chrome fees, geez.

    Tip; when using lacquer thinner in the corners try soaking a small rag in thinner, push into corner and let it sit for 15-30 minutes, then finish up with brush and thinner followed by a rinse with soapy water.

  8. #8
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    Just out of curiosity did you give a preference of driver vs show quality chrome? I always go show quality and would like to see some examples of driver quality chrome. Decades ago the difference between the two were not that great but I think that is not the case anymore. Many times on the really high dollar pieces I'll do a lot of the filling and all the straightening myself as it lowers the cost.

  9. #9
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    They didn't offer different levels of chrome so I'm not real sure. The things they have done for me are super smooth.

    Most of the pitting marks are where the chrome stays and isn't painted, naturally.
    LET'S GO DARWIN!

  10. #10

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    this is a dash i did for a customer, 600 bucks, spray chrome and paint.

    dash1.jpg
    dash2.jpg
    dash3.jpg
    dash4.jpg

  11. #11
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    Is that spray chrome an Alsa product? It looks great.

  12. #12
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    Wow, that spray chrome really looks good.
    Which product did you use?
    LET'S GO DARWIN!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidnightOilJK View Post
    this is a dash i did for a customer, 600 bucks, spray chrome and paint.

    dash1.jpg
    dash2.jpg
    dash3.jpg
    dash4.jpg
    That looks fantastic.
    LS says "Lets Go Brandon". He's like that.

  14. #14
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    Here is a URL to Alsa chrome paint through Eastwood.

    https://alsacorp.com/product/easy-chrome/

    I have a couple lower outer pieces of pitted chromed steel (not bumper related) that I need to do something with. It's almost impossible to find rechroming places anymore.

    Thanks EPA !

    Here is a video of spraying that Asla chrome. Not the spray on then hose it down with water like I'm used to seeing.

    https://youtu.be/SGrkBbZ-d_g
    LS says "Lets Go Brandon". He's like that.

  15. #15
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    Holy Crap ! $189.00 plus tax, plus shipping for the Alsa chrome hobby kit with 2 oz of base coat and 2 oz of whatever. TWO OUNCES ?? I won't be buying any of that soon.
    LS says "Lets Go Brandon". He's like that.

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