55 210 Remodel and new build thread.

[Phil V]

My current project is basically the same car as this in the picture. 1962 Renault Dauphine Ondine Deluxe. My dad had a similar car that we went everywhere in when I was a kid. 30 neck snapping horse power. Does the quarter mile in 26 seconds at 50 mph. Rear engine liquid cooled 4 cyl.

[bam55]

I narrowed and rebuild my Ford 9 inch. I will installed Torino axle ends and a Willwood brakes.

This is one of the jigs I used to measure how much to cut. It gives you the centerline and the axle length once the rearend is narrowed. In this pic I marked my cuts.

The cuts are made, its time to weld on the new axle ends.

Using this jig allows me to weld on the axle ends square. The axle ends come beveled and I also beveled the axle tubes for maximum penetration.
I also took advantage of mocking up the rearend while it had no weight. This allowed me to move it with ease and weld all the 4 link mounts.

[bam55]

Ready for paint

Cut to fit axles ready for installation.

Once painted I installed a new 3rd member. Its Posi with 3.70 gears.

Rearend is complete and ready to install in the car.

[Ronf]

As usual nice work Bam, I love your builds. Any reason you decided to cut, cap and weld on axle ends as opposed to just narrowing one side of the axle housing? I've done a few that way when I didn't have a chose as I was narrowing and installing buddy bearings but my normal is to just cut the housing and replace one side of the axle, just depended on what my rear measures. Nice work on welding up the axle tubes to pumpkin to keep them from twisting (Fords axle tube plug welds really suck, but maybe they aren't meant for the way we are driving these rods), will save your rear when hitting it hard. Something you might find helpful if your going for torque is to install the Ford Racing clutch pack in your diff., makes the rear tight with quick response. Their racing clutch packs are almost twice as thick as the standard Ford clutches. Regardless if you change clutches out I would be sure and add 4 oz.'s of friction modifier to keep that diff smooth and quiet. I really recommend these clutches and modifier if your installing a traction component like slappers or Caltracs, they will save that rear and keep it from burning out. I have a feeling you already know this.

[bmarler]

i dig watching the progress too. it's always good to see how other people think about problem solving. i'm not super familiar with this pumpkin and how it's assembled, but did you say, ron, that they plug weld the tubes into the housing? then you can drill out the plugs and pull the tubes?
seems like the way to do it if you're using the original bearing setup. i like the fittings bam used, the socket style fitup is good for strength and alignment.
like i said, interesting to see how people think.

oops, on closer look i see where the weld is now. it's a butt weld. nice job with the fit up, looks spot on.

[Ronf]

i dig watching the progress too. it's always good to see how other people think about problem solving. i'm not super familiar with this pumpkin and how it's assembled, but did you say, ron, that they plug weld the tubes into the housing? then you can drill out the plugs and pull the tubes?
seems like the way to do it if you're using the original bearing setup. i like the fittings bam used, the socket style fitup is good for strength and alignment.
like i said, interesting to see how people think.

oops, on closer look i see where the weld is now. it's a butt weld. nice job with the fit up, looks spot on.

Hey Brian my friend how is life treating you? Haven't had much time to get on the site as I'm covered up with work. I think people have been itching to get back to car shows after covid.
Yes, both Ford and GM have certain axle assemblies that were plug welded to keep axle twist away. Others are hydraulically pressed in only. I've drilled a few of these plug welds and pulled axle tubes, but that is a tough way to go. Most of those axle tubes are tight and hard to get out. Best way is to cut the tube either like Bam did or cut and weld at the spring axle perch for strength, which is my preferred method as you salvages the bearing housing and bolt on backing plate flange. If I know Bam I'm guessing he want all new flanges which is the way to go. If you noticed Bam welded his axle tubes to pumpkin, exactly the way I always do as it prevents tube twist. This is especially true with pressed fitting tubes and plug welded axle tubes. I've blown more than one rear out when racing and learned the hard way years ago.

[bmarler]

Hey Brian my friend how is life treating you? Haven't had much time to get on the site as I'm covered up with work. I think people have been itching to get back to car shows after covid.
Yes, both Ford and GM have certain axle assemblies that were plug welded to keep axle twist away. Others are hydraulically pressed in only. I've drilled a few of these plug welds and pulled axle tubes, but that is a tough way to go. Most of those axle tubes are tight and hard to get out. Best way is to cut the tube either like Bam did or cut and weld at the spring axle perch for strength, which is my preferred method as you salvages the bearing housing and bolt on backing plate flange. If I know Bam I'm guessing he want all new flanges which is the way to go. If you noticed Bam welded his axle tubes to pumpkin, exactly the way I always do as it prevents tube twist. This is especially true with pressed fitting tubes and plug welded axle tubes. I've blown more than one rear out when racing and learned the hard way years ago.

doing well Ron, but like you, i'm really busy. different stuff, but busy all the same.
thanks for the explanation regarding the third member treatment, i totally get the welding upgrade for the pumpkin to axle tube thing. when i was younger i destroyed an axle or two. with the horsepower common to engines these days, twisting an axle is a real probability. putting 700 hp to the pavement takes planning.
you guys have the info and the talent to do really great things, we all appreciate that you take the time to show it.

[bam55]

As usual nice work Bam, I love your builds. Any reason you decided to cut, cap and weld on axle ends as opposed to just narrowing one side of the axle housing? I've done a few that way when I didn't have a chose as I was narrowing and installing buddy bearings but my normal is to just cut the housing and replace one side of the axle, just depended on what my rear measures. Nice work on welding up the axle tubes to pumpkin to keep them from twisting (Fords axle tube plug welds really suck, but maybe they aren't meant for the way we are driving these rods), will save your rear when hitting it hard. Something you might find helpful if your going for torque is to install the Ford Racing clutch pack in your diff., makes the rear tight with quick response. Their racing clutch packs are almost twice as thick as the standard Ford clutches. Regardless if you change clutches out I would be sure and add 4 oz.'s of friction modifier to keep that diff smooth and quiet. I really recommend these clutches and modifier if your installing a traction component like slappers or Caltracs, they will save that rear and keep it from burning out. I have a feeling you already know this.

Hey Ron,

As to why the new axle ends? Because I wanted the modern big bearing (torino style) which also allows me to run the modern brake kit with the 2.5 axle offset. I cut the rear because of the wheels and tire combo it needed to be 56 inches. It a will be mostly a cruiser so no need to over do it, but since the cost of the axles are the same 28 vs 31 spline, I did upgrade the 3rd member to 31 spline posi 3:70 gears, and yes I do know about friction modifier has to be added.