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Thread: Seal Coat

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Yes I am going to do a epoxy seal coat before the color, that is a relief to know
    Thank you
    Jim
    Jimmy,

    If your doing a 3-7 day epoxy you might consider letting that epoxy sit 12-24 hours before top coating, it will help reduce chances of vapor pop. Check your TDS for max time to bc/cc to keep from sanding again

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Jimmy,

    If your doing a 3-7 day epoxy you might consider letting that epoxy sit 12-24 hours before top coating, it will help reduce chances of vapor pop. Check your TDS for max time to bc/cc to keep from sanding again
    great thinking. especially this time of year when temperatures are lower.
    b marler

  3. #18
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    Doing the painting in my garage when it comes to the reducer should I use slow, medium, or fast? We were using a fast reducer with the high build 2k primer I can keep my garage at 75°F but when I paint I have to open one window and another with a fan to clear the air which causes the temp to drop.
    I have just finished the sanding of high-build and I did burn through to the epoxy and on the edges to metal, I am wondering if I should respray the high-build, my seal coat is grey epoxy.
    Another question is this sit-up and beg-style car with the fat fenders do I spray with the doors and fenders on the car or off.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Doing the painting in my garage when it comes to the reducer should I use slow, medium, or fast? We were using a fast reducer with the high build 2k primer I can keep my garage at 75°F but when I paint I have to open one window and another with a fan to clear the air which causes the temp to drop.
    I have just finished the sanding of high-build and I did burn through to the epoxy and on the edges to metal, I am wondering if I should respray the high-build, my seal coat is grey epoxy.
    Another question is this sit-up and beg-style car with the fat fenders do I spray with the doors and fenders on the car or off.
    In most cases the paint manufacturer will recommend the proper reducer for the temperature but our shop usually varies with the product being sprayed, the temperature and the size of the area being sprayed. In many cases we use a fast reducer when the temperature is below 70F.

  5. #20
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    It’s a judgement call on the primer. If you think there’s a lot of burn through then maybe spotting in some primer would be best. I like to use regular 2k urethane primer, not high build for this. Maybe the high build is ok too, you can decide. No need to re-cover the whole thing though, just spot it in and sand it smooth.
    Regarding the painting on or off the car, it’s your choice. If it’s a metallic paint, doing it assembled can make a more uniform finish. For me, with the shape of the fenders, I’d shoot it in pieces. Those inside corners can be a bear.
    b marler

  6. #21
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    Can I reduce the high build primer?
    I am struggling with the fast and or slow reducer, using a slow reducer will this allow the paint to smooth out? Will it increase the chance of runs or sags?
    My son who does the painting seems to have a problem with getting the paint to lay flat and the end result is extreme orange peel, to be honest, I hate sanding.
    On a lighter note, my daughter called and said most of her lung cancer has disappeared.
    Thanks, Jim

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Can I reduce the high build primer?
    I am struggling with the fast and or slow reducer, using a slow reducer will this allow the paint to smooth out? Will it increase the chance of runs or sags?
    My son who does the painting seems to have a problem with getting the paint to lay flat and the end result is extreme orange peel, to be honest, I hate sanding.
    On a lighter note, my daughter called and said most of her lung cancer has disappeared.
    Thanks, Jim
    You should be using the right size fluid tip in your spray gun for the products you're spraying. Most high build primers you'll want something between a 1.6 and 1.8 fluid tip but you may get away with a smaller tip if you mix in "a little" reducer. Guide coat the primer prior to sanding.

    You can help the paint to flow using a slower reducer but it adds to your chances of runs. No matter which paint you're applying try to allow the first coat to dry a little before applying your second coat, this will help eliminate runs.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Can I reduce the high build primer?
    I am struggling with the fast and or slow reducer, using a slow reducer will this allow the paint to smooth out? Will it increase the chance of runs or sags?
    My son who does the painting seems to have a problem with getting the paint to lay flat and the end result is extreme orange peel, to be honest, I hate sanding.
    On a lighter note, my daughter called and said most of her lung cancer has disappeared.
    Thanks, Jim
    primer and paint are two different things. lets try to be specific about what we're talking about. you ask about reducing the primer, but talk later about getting the paint to lay flat. which are we talking about?
    primer, as a rule doesn't lay out as flat as paint, but it's easy to sand flat. high build is going to be a little rougher (more peel) than regular 2k primer. and yes, typically you can over-reduce the primer to an extent. but like len says, the proper mixing, tip size, and pressure should get you acceptable results. personally, i don't mind sanding. it clears my head of all the other distractions of life. i enjoy the process more than the finished product. kinda weird, i know.
    great news about your daughter, i hope it lasts. cancer touches all of us in some way, it can be a very tough thing to handle. i have a dock neighbor who just lost his daughter to it. he's having a tough time. count you blessings!
    b marler

  9. #24
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    Default Think shop temperature and

    Metal temperature! Get the shop and vehicle warm. 70 degrees and above is best for painting. I find cold temps kind of shock the paint or undercoats. They’ll lay dormant & not kick over, won’t flow, just an all around snafu!
    Best of luck your way. You’ll get it done!
    "Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience." Alfred E. Newman

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by recoatlift View Post
    Metal temperature! Get the shop and vehicle warm. 70 degrees and above is best for painting. I find cold temps kind of shock the paint or undercoats. They’ll lay dormant & not kick over, won’t flow, just an all around snafu!
    Best of luck your way. You’ll get it done!
    That's right, low temps can sure mess things up. If you're doing one panel at a time you can use a heat lamp to get it warmed up.


  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    primer and paint are two different things. lets try to be specific about what we're talking about. you ask about reducing the primer, but talk later about getting the paint to lay flat. which are we talking about?
    primer, as a rule doesn't lay out as flat as paint, but it's easy to sand flat. high build is going to be a little rougher (more peel) than regular 2k primer. and yes, typically you can over-reduce the primer to an extent. but like len says, the proper mixing, tip size, and pressure should get you acceptable results. personally, i don't mind sanding. it clears my head of all the other distractions of life. i enjoy the process more than the finished product. kinda weird, i know.
    great news about your daughter, i hope it lasts. cancer touches all of us in some way, it can be a very tough thing to handle. i have a dock neighbor who just lost his daughter to it. he's having a tough time. count you blessings!
    You have to remember I am 75 and sometimes screw up what I wanted to say, the gun I am using is a finishline with 3 tips 1.4-1.8-2.0. so far all I have been working with is epoxy and 2k primer the last spray was a 2k high build. The high build did not go on as nice as it should have on some areas of the car and in the process of sanding the high build I burned through to metal in a few areas along the edges, I also burned through to the epoxy in other areas. The seal coat is a grey epoxy so it should hide those spots. I have sanded the entire car down to 600g and it was a tough job as the surface of this car is one big contour only straight areas are the doors. Currently, I am going to cover the entire car with a few sheets and put it to bed until the weather warms up and I can de-dust the shop also build a paint booth and study Lens Paint 101dvd.
    I do apologize for the confusion

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    You have to remember I am 75 and sometimes screw up what I wanted to say, the gun I am using is a finishline with 3 tips 1.4-1.8-2.0. so far all I have been working with is epoxy and 2k primer the last spray was a 2k high build. The high build did not go on as nice as it should have on some areas of the car and in the process of sanding the high build I burned through to metal in a few areas along the edges, I also burned through to the epoxy in other areas. The seal coat is a grey epoxy so it should hide those spots. I have sanded the entire car down to 600g and it was a tough job as the surface of this car is one big contour only straight areas are the doors. Currently, I am going to cover the entire car with a few sheets and put it to bed until the weather warms up and I can de-dust the shop also build a paint booth and study Lens Paint 101dvd.
    I do apologize for the confusion
    no worries, i just want to help get you good information. techniques change with different products, so knowing exactly what's happening ensures good response to your questions. i forgot you're in wisconsin, i bet it's cold as heck. i did some work out there a few years ago around this time of year. i remember the temp sensor on the car reading 14 degrees or so on my way to work. or was it minus 14?
    b marler

  13. #28
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    Well this morning it was -9° F and here is the rest of the week.
    Wind chills of 25 below to 35 below are expected this morning. A
    Wind Chill Advisory is in effect.
    A couple more fast-moving systems will bring light snow
    accumulation Saturday night and Sunday night.
    Another blast of very cold air will arrive Monday night through
    Tuesday night. Wind chills colder than 25 below zero are possible.
    As I mentioned I have all the sanding done and the primer is as smooth as a greased baby's hinny ( rather proud of myself) I do have a question that is the primer I sprayed over the epoxy seems to be bleeding through the HB2k as I have noticed these spots very faint is this normal?
    I will get a few photos together of the car.
    Today I am going to layout all the door latches next to the respective door to see what I am missing also do a nut and bolt count and replace them.
    Have a GREAT Weekend
    GO PACK

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Well this morning it was -9° F and here is the rest of the week.
    Wind chills of 25 below to 35 below are expected this morning. A
    Wind Chill Advisory is in effect.
    A couple more fast-moving systems will bring light snow
    accumulation Saturday night and Sunday night.
    Another blast of very cold air will arrive Monday night through
    Tuesday night. Wind chills colder than 25 below zero are possible.
    As I mentioned I have all the sanding done and the primer is as smooth as a greased baby's hinny ( rather proud of myself) I do have a question that is the primer I sprayed over the epoxy seems to be bleeding through the HB2k as I have noticed these spots very faint is this normal?
    I will get a few photos together of the car.
    Today I am going to layout all the door latches next to the respective door to see what I am missing also do a nut and bolt count and replace them.
    Have a GREAT Weekend
    GO PACK
    Gee I thought it was cold here in NJ, 11 last night but I can still get my shop warm enough to paint.

    Packers are my second most favorite team after the Eagles but the Eags are out so now I'm routing for the Pack.

  15. #30
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    You are in balmy weather When I got up this morning I had to go out and kick start the dog, going to be cold at Lambeau Sat. I am going to hold off on the final paint until late Feb when I can get the shop warm enough, waiting on needles for the DVD I have a few quarts of old enamel and lacquer paint which will get used in practice.

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