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Thread: Seal Coat

  1. #1
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    Default Seal Coat

    The last coat of primer (heavy Build) goes on today after which I will sand with 600g next will be the seal coat and my question is can I use clear for a seal coat? I have a pint of Omni production clear (ppg) how thin should I get this for the seal or do you recommend another type of paint.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    The last coat of primer (heavy Build) goes on today after which I will sand with 600g next will be the seal coat and my question is can I use clear for a seal coat? I have a pint of Omni production clear (ppg) how thin should I get this for the seal or do you recommend another type of paint.
    It may work and it may not, it depends on the characteristics of the products underneath and the clear. If you want to spend as little money as possible I'd recommend getting a small kit of epoxy primer from The Coating Store.

  3. #3
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    Len, correct me if I am wrong, today I am going to use PPG One Choice wax and grease remover to clean the surface which I have previously primed and sanded, next I am going to spray a high build primer/filler 2K 2.1 VOC Compliant High Build Primer Kit, Fast Dry 4:1, Gray, S2025V, 1 Gallon UPO2253V-KIT-FAST_288x288.jpg
    Once this is dry I will sand with 600g and then apply the sealer Gray Epoxy Primer & Sealer 2.1 VOC (Gallon Kit) Anti-Corrosive DTM High-Performance Primer for Automotive & Industrial Use - Includes Hardener. I hope I can lay the coat down smooth and of course the color coat.
    I can get the sealer a bit cheaper at The Coating Store but I have a credit at TCP Global, their paints are made by Sherwyn Williams not sure about U-Pol.
    As far as the color goes I am looking at British Racing Green or a Dark Blue, what color sealer should I use grey or white.
    Thank you

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Len, correct me if I am wrong, today I am going to use PPG One Choice wax and grease remover to clean the surface which I have previously primed and sanded, next I am going to spray a high build primer/filler 2K 2.1 VOC Compliant High Build Primer Kit, Fast Dry 4:1, Gray, S2025V, 1 Gallon UPO2253V-KIT-FAST_288x288.jpg
    Once this is dry I will sand with 600g and then apply the sealer Gray Epoxy Primer & Sealer 2.1 VOC (Gallon Kit) Anti-Corrosive DTM High-Performance Primer for Automotive & Industrial Use - Includes Hardener. I hope I can lay the coat down smooth and of course the color coat.
    I can get the sealer a bit cheaper at The Coating Store but I have a credit at TCP Global, their paints are made by Sherwyn Williams not sure about U-Pol.
    As far as the color goes I am looking at British Racing Green or a Dark Blue, what color sealer should I use grey or white.
    Thank you
    Sounds good, I'd probably go with grey sealer.

  5. #5
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    OK we have a plan Thank You

  6. #6
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    One other question, when I purchased the gun it came with a filter that inserts just under the cup do I need this with the high build (will the paint flow through) also should I filter this primer before pouring it into the cup??
    Thank you

  7. #7
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    i only filter when loading the cup. i never use filters in the gun. they always seem to clog and create more trouble than they're worth.
    b marler

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    i only filter when loading the cup. i never use filters in the gun. they always seem to clog and create more trouble than they're worth.
    I absolutely agree. Strain the paint using a strainer as you pour the paint into the cup.


  9. #9
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    Ok just wasn't sure being the stuff is so thick but it did flow, had one other problem when my son sprayed the fenders and body on the first coat he put it on wet with a 50% overlap the primer flowed real nice the gun is a finishline cheapo with a 2.0 tip and paint was wide open with 30psi. I then cleaned the gun really well ( I am a clean freak) but when he put on the second coat the finish it sprayed just horrible big time orange peel and did not want to lay smooth tried different gun settings to no avail. I think I am just going to sand the primer with 600g and if all looks good I will leave it at that. I just do not understand why the first coat went on perfect and how cleaning the gun tuned it into a stucco fest.

  10. #10

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    Was the second coat done with the same first batch of mixed primer?
    (2K primers can start setting fast so if you wait to long it can get thicker)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Ok just wasn't sure being the stuff is so thick but it did flow, had one other problem when my son sprayed the fenders and body on the first coat he put it on wet with a 50% overlap the primer flowed real nice the gun is a finishline cheapo with a 2.0 tip and paint was wide open with 30psi. I then cleaned the gun really well ( I am a clean freak) but when he put on the second coat the finish it sprayed just horrible big time orange peel and did not want to lay smooth tried different gun settings to no avail. I think I am just going to sand the primer with 600g and if all looks good I will leave it at that. I just do not understand why the first coat went on perfect and how cleaning the gun tuned it into a stucco fest.
    Something was changed on the second coat. Application technique, viscosity of the primer, inlet air pressure at the gun, temperature of the product being sprayed or a combination of things.

  12. #12
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    I only mix a cup at a time or less, I am thinking the problem is the temp of the shop as it is really cold here.
    thank you JC and Len.

  13. #13
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    Another question, I have sanded the fenders with 320, 400, and finished with 600 and I burned through in a few spots mostly along the edges where I see metal, I also have a few spots where I can see the epoxy that was laid done first. How do I touch up these spots without redoing the entire fender, can I use rattle can paint for the oops areas?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Another question, I have sanded the fenders with 320, 400, and finished with 600 and I burned through in a few spots mostly along the edges where I see metal, I also have a few spots where I can see the epoxy that was laid done first. How do I touch up these spots without redoing the entire fender, can I use rattle can paint for the oops areas?
    you were doing a seal coat before paint weren't you? sealer should take care of it if there's no other defects.
    otherwise, you can spot in some 2k primer. stay away from rattle cans.
    b marler

  15. #15
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    Yes I am going to do a epoxy seal coat before the color, that is a relief to know
    Thank you
    Jim

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