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Thread: Some advice please

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    It appears that the paint was applied way too wet causing the existing paint to lift.

    Did you use a small gun? Probably not and put one coat after another without allowing the previous coat to dry enough.

    Now, in order to repair what you have, you'll need to extend the repair area and learn from your mistakes. We all do.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    It appears that the paint was applied way too wet causing the existing paint to lift.

    Did you use a small gun? Probably not and put one coat after another without allowing the previous coat to dry enough.

    Now, in order to repair what you have, you'll need to extend the repair area and learn from your mistakes. We all do.


    Not sure tbh, I used an infrared lamp to cure and the primer was dry to the touch (3 light coats - 4:1 mix + 20% thinner) before applying the base coats (this was straight from the tin and nothing else). In between each base coat I used the lamp for 5 mins and checked the base coat was dry to touch before next layer.

    As soon as the paint hit the primer part it was as per the photo, but either side it was fine.

    Do you think perhaps the primer hadn’t fully cured, despite feeling dry?

    PS the spray gun was a 1.5-0.8mm

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKM3 View Post
    Not sure tbh, I used an infrared lamp to cure and the primer was dry to the touch (3 light coats - 4:1 mix + 20% thinner) before applying the base coats (this was straight from the tin and nothing else). In between each base coat I used the lamp for 5 mins and checked the base coat was dry to touch before next layer.

    As soon as the paint hit the primer part it was as per the photo, but either side it was fine.

    Do you think perhaps the primer hadnít fully cured, despite feeling dry?

    PS the spray gun was a 1.5-0.8mm
    You state for bc "this was straight from the tin and nothing else" what does your TDS call for? Most of the bc's I shoot are 1:1, this is where it went south. I don't know of a 2 stage bc that can be shot straight from the can. How did you set up your gun to achieve 10 psi at the tip?

  4. #34
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    Dec 2015
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    What brand and product line of BC are you shooting? You are shooting a 2 stage metallic correct? Even SS stage paints I shoot require anywhere from 4:1:1 to 8:1:1 depending on product and brand.
    Your bc should have been reduced to at least 1:1 before CC. You need a TDS for all your products! Be sure and check your cc TDS for reduction and hardner.

  5. #35
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKM3 View Post
    Not sure tbh, I used an infrared lamp to cure and the primer was dry to the touch (3 light coats - 4:1 mix + 20% thinner) before applying the base coats (this was straight from the tin and nothing else). In between each base coat I used the lamp for 5 mins and checked the base coat was dry to touch before next layer.

    As soon as the paint hit the primer part it was as per the photo, but either side it was fine.

    Do you think perhaps the primer hadn’t fully cured, despite feeling dry?

    PS the spray gun was a 1.5-0.8mm
    Let's break down your info;

    "PS the spray gun was a 1.5-0.8mm." This is not how spray guns work. Guns work off of specific tip sizes for example; for primers I use a dedicated 1.5 to 1.8 (depending on reduction), for spray fillers I use a dedicated 1.8 to 2.8, for bc I use a 1.2 to 1.3xl (depending on product and reduction) and for clears a 1.3. I have never heard of a gun in which a single tip varies from .08-1.5

    "base coats (this was straight from the tin and nothing else)". I've never heard of a bc that doesn't need reducing regardless of type or brand. This is where I suspect things went south quickly on you and caused this surface to break away. You need to download, read and understand the TDS for all products before you start applying materials. Post questions here for any products TDS you don't understand.

    " primer was dry to the touch" are you touching the surface with bare fingers? If so you are transferring the oils from your hands to the surface to be painted which will cause contamination and lifting of applied products. Always use a gloved hand or back side of finger nail to gauge surface, ever touch the surface with your bare hands.

    " I used an infrared lamp to cure" you don't always need an infrared lamp for curing, especially on top coat finishing products when temps are above 68 degrees. Almost seems as though you are rushing things? If you are shooting in temps 68 degrees and above leave the lamp out and concentrate on shooting your products per TDS specs.

    Lastly, learn to set up your spray gun correctly. When a coatings TDS calls for 10 psi at the tip they are not referring to inlet pressure. Check out your guns manual that states the psi needed to achieve 10 psi at the tip (usually ranges from 22-30 psi inlet). Practice with your gun before hitting a panel. I cannot stress this point enough as you have to understand what is going on at the tip of your gun. Anything short of this will bring problems.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    18,687

    Default Hmmmmm....

    Gunna make a guess he may have been using "RTS" basecoat!

    Henry

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Posts
    12

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    Thanks for all the responses gents - just to update, today I wet sanded everything back to square one - and did virtually the same process as before. The coats of base coat went on fine

    The only difference this time was that I didnít clean the panel with a wax and grease remover - I read somewhere else that it can cause issues with filler.

    Seems to have done the trick!


    Just want to say a huge thank you to everyone for their help on this great forum - Iím a complete novice but feel slightly more confident that I can actually spray something !

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