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Thread: Some advice please

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKM3 View Post
    Wow, what an amazing response and detail - thank you so much, this is very, very helpful !!!

    Very kind of you for taking the time to do this, much appreciated.

    Should be doing it this weekend, so will follow what you have shown there and hopefully it works out ok - if I wasnít a novice Iíd do the whole bumper, but baby steps for now
    Just remember every time you shoot a coat, the next coat has to extend beyond previous coat even if it is a minimum amount.

  2. #17
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    BTW, I would follow Lens advise for SS as any edges on the sanded surface will show through after painting. If you are absolutely confident this is properly feathered then you can omit that step, just be sure or you will have ghost lines in the paint (consider sanding that area with your 1500g wet while utilizing guide coat to get a feel).

  3. #18
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    Sep 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob K View Post
    Fixing a small spot and making it look good is harder than doing the entire bumper cover.

    Bob K
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Personally I would pull the entire front cover, prep and re-paint.
    I agree with both Bob K & Ronf.

    However, if you are able to pull off a good match during the color blending process follow through by clear coating the entire panel. My opinion is trying to burn in the new clear to the old is harder to get right & have it last than biting the bullet and clearing the entire panel.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by S-C View Post
    I agree with both Bob K & Ronf.

    However, if you are able to pull off a good match during the color blending process follow through by clear coating the entire panel. My opinion is trying to burn in the new clear to the old is harder to get right & have it last than biting the bullet and clearing the entire panel.
    If you prep it properly, use a "high quality" clear, apply it properly and allow it to harden fully it should be fine.

  5. #20
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    Default A 'WORD' for you!

    Quote Originally Posted by S-C View Post
    I agree with both Bob K & Ronf.

    However, if you are able to pull off a good match during the color blending process follow through by clear coating the entire panel. My opinion is trying to burn in the new clear to the old is harder to get right & have it last than biting the bullet and clearing the entire panel.
    THIS WAS FIRST INTENDED FOR: UKM3

    I want to contribute 3 things to you and the first one is a MUST!

    ERASE from your mind this is a first time event for you. I've seen MANY people like you come through here with zero experience but use the brain they were born with to absorb what's being shared with them. NOW, consider, there are always more than ONE way to reach the objective of the project. So that's first and goes to confidence you need and WE KNOW you HAVE that YES you can get this done!

    THE WORD: "GINGERLY" - gingerly adverb: with extreme care concerning the result of a movement or action : very cautiously and carefully

    I emphasize this word because of the limited 'small' repair area you have to deal with. Like shaving but not your face but a PEACH just picked from a tree. This will all go to TECHNIQUE and be a big plus in your box of skills.

    THE REPAIR: To give you something to think about I'll share what this repair reminds me of and how I would handle it.
    This repair is typical of a repair to the front portion of a roof on an SUV maybe around a sunroof. I've done a bunch of those. (That's a big roof, has rails bolted on and ribs glued on.)

    What I've done is wash the area well and choose a size I wish to allow my repair to extent. SAND only to scuff the shiny paint and tape off the remainder of the area not being worked.

    OK so we've gotten through the repair and are at the paint stage.

    With either a small gun or my normal gun (turned down for use on a small area) (Practice on an old fender or ?)

    GINGERLY pull the trigger for any primer and allow to dry (cure) SAND & WIPE any loose dust.
    GINGERLY pull the trigger of your COLOR (BASE) TELL YOURSELF you are not changing color or making blue with your first coat. You are GINGERLY building layers that will ACHEIVE the color you need. Keep you first coats of color more (COMPLETELY) over the repair and each additional coat wider some. OK, the color is WELL dried. CLEAR TIME:
    GINGERLY pull the trigger with your CLEAR COAT and AGAIN in the movement as with the base but extending more than the base with each coat. I would like you to do as I do at your final coat(s) of clear and that is to ADD URETHANE REDUCER to thin the clear and spray this over the area especially along the edges of where you sprayed the clear and it meets the original (sanded) clear.

    This will BURN in (MELT) the new clear into the old clear. Sound scary? It's not and it works and worked PERFECTLY for me my first time with CLEAR.

    Now, you can ask around about what I explained to you and if understood and done correctly, can make a really nice repair for you.

    NO MATTER WHAT: It won't be the end of the world and you'll learn. Worse that can happen is more work. Maybe!

    Sorry to get so winded but you'll shorten what I said the more you learn it. Keep us posted!

    Henry

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    THIS WAS FIRST INTENDED FOR: UKM3

    I want to contribute 3 things to you and the first one is a MUST!

    ERASE from your mind this is a first time event for you. I've seen MANY people like you come through here with zero experience but use the brain they were born with to absorb what's being shared with them. NOW, consider, there are always more than ONE way to reach the objective of the project. So that's first and goes to confidence you need and WE KNOW you HAVE that YES you can get this done!

    THE WORD: "GINGERLY" - gingerly adverb: with extreme care concerning the result of a movement or action : very cautiously and carefully

    I emphasize this word because of the limited 'small' repair area you have to deal with. Like shaving but not your face but a PEACH just picked from a tree. This will all go to TECHNIQUE and be a big plus in your box of skills.

    THE REPAIR: To give you something to think about I'll share what this repair reminds me of and how I would handle it.
    This repair is typical of a repair to the front portion of a roof on an SUV maybe around a sunroof. I've done a bunch of those. (That's a big roof, has rails bolted on and ribs glued on.)

    What I've done is wash the area well and choose a size I wish to allow my repair to extent. SAND only to scuff the shiny paint and tape off the remainder of the area not being worked.

    OK so we've gotten through the repair and are at the paint stage.

    With either a small gun or my normal gun (turned down for use on a small area) (Practice on an old fender or ?)

    GINGERLY pull the trigger for any primer and allow to dry (cure) SAND & WIPE any loose dust.
    GINGERLY pull the trigger of your COLOR (BASE) TELL YOURSELF you are not changing color or making blue with your first coat. You are GINGERLY building layers that will ACHEIVE the color you need. Keep you first coats of color more (COMPLETELY) over the repair and each additional coat wider some. OK, the color is WELL dried. CLEAR TIME:
    GINGERLY pull the trigger with your CLEAR COAT and AGAIN in the movement as with the base but extending more than the base with each coat. I would like you to do as I do at your final coat(s) of clear and that is to ADD URETHANE REDUCER to thin the clear and spray this over the area especially along the edges of where you sprayed the clear and it meets the original (sanded) clear.

    This will BURN in (MELT) the new clear into the old clear. Sound scary? It's not and it works and worked PERFECTLY for me my first time with CLEAR.

    Now, you can ask around about what I explained to you and if understood and done correctly, can make a really nice repair for you.

    NO MATTER WHAT: It won't be the end of the world and you'll learn. Worse that can happen is more work. Maybe!

    Sorry to get so winded but you'll shorten what I said the more you learn it. Keep us posted!

    Henry
    wouldn't you use a blending solvent or straight reducer at the extreme edge of the repair henry? personally i like the ppg sxa840 cause it's so convenient in the aerosol can.
    b marler

  7. #22
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    wouldn't you use a blending solvent or straight reducer at the extreme edge of the repair henry? personally i like the ppg sxa840 cause it's so convenient in the aerosol can.
    For me, my spots were small so I blasted it all. But I do agree with there is a dedicated product and U-POL makes one I've used but find it basically amounts to using additional URETHANE reducer with last of the clear. (Maybe I just like using the added reducer cuz that's how I learned back when AND if I can help NOT introduce another product (VARIABLE) into the mix then I'm all for it - to accomplish the same result.)

    I do think the terms "BURN" and "MELT" concern many but it only refers to an action between like chemicals.

    Minimal LIGHT wet or dry sanding then buff and I find my repair areas hard to spot. Plus, in the example I gave, it sure beats clearing and ENTIRE SUV roof!

  8. #23
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    wouldn't you use a blending solvent or straight reducer at the extreme edge of the repair henry? personally i like the ppg sxa840 cause it's so convenient in the aerosol can.

    bmarler,

    Your PPG SXA840 (or the SX840) blender is a great product and my go to for short blends such as the OP has. Lately I have tried the SprayMax 3680093 with good results for both SS and CC. Typically for a blend I will shoot either straight reducer on outer edges wet on wet or a 50/50 CC/reducer as it works really well. I've always struggled in high end finish buff out in blended areas as I tend to burn back the edges, hopefully I have this under control now.

  9. #24
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    May 2021
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    Guys, thanks for all the help - so gave it a go last couple of days...

    - Yesterday I put down body filler and got it all nice and smooth
    - Today I sprayed the primer on the body filler and it went down beautifully
    - Once cured I sanded the primer area so the whole upper bumper was lovely and flat
    - I then keyed the entire area with 3000 grit etc.
    - I then sprayed the base coat


    The last bit is where things went wrong

    I donít know why but the paint sprayed on lovely apart from the area that had been primed? There it is all runny and absolutely tons of ripples (looks like the bloody sea!) like it isnít able to stick to the filler? The rest of the area took the paint on beautifully.

    Iíve left it as it is now, with the thought either to get a professional to do it, or sand it down once dry and try again...

    The thing is I donít know what Iíve done wrong...will try to get some photos once I feel able to lift my spirits enough to go back and look at the mess...

  10. #25
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    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKM3 View Post
    Guys, thanks for all the help - so gave it a go last couple of days...

    - Yesterday I put down body filler and got it all nice and smooth
    - Today I sprayed the primer on the body filler and it went down beautifully
    - Once cured I sanded the primer area so the whole upper bumper was lovely and flat
    - I then keyed the entire area with 3000 grit etc.
    - I then sprayed the base coat


    The last bit is where things went wrong

    I donít know why but the paint sprayed on lovely apart from the area that had been primed? There it is all runny and absolutely tons of ripples (looks like the bloody sea!) like it isnít able to stick to the filler? The rest of the area took the paint on beautifully.

    Iíve left it as it is now, with the thought either to get a professional to do it, or sand it down once dry and try again...

    The thing is I donít know what Iíve done wrong...will try to get some photos once I feel able to lift my spirits enough to go back and look at the mess...
    what did you prime it with?
    b marler

  11. #26
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    May 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    what did you prime it with?
    Used evercoat body filler and primed it with with following :-

    S2025 HIGH BUILD PRIMER


    SYSTEM 20

    A multi-purpose primer offering the functionality of '2 products in 1' - primer filler and primer surfacer. It is suitable for spot repairs to full panel applications which can be air dried, low baked or I.R. cured.

    Easy to sand and gives perfect gloss hold out
    Excellent build, opacity and filling power
    Use with S2030 and S2032 hardeners

  12. #27
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    May 2021
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    Here is the mess - will sand it all back down later


  13. #28
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    that's crazy looking. i think the 3000 grit was a bit too fine. 600 wet would have been where i'd go. let that cure for a couple of days, wet sand with maybe 400 then switch to 600 and try again.
    if the 400 isn't cutting it use 220 as the first pass.
    b marler

  14. #29
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    May 2021
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    Sanded the mess down and cleaned up the area...

    With a tiny bit of spray this is how the paint sits on the filler/primer - definitely something going on, but not sure what

    free pic hosting

  15. #30
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    Sep 2020
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    Wow!!
    Sorry to see this has happened.
    Looks like a compatibility issue of sorts.
    What base paint are you using?

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