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Thread: Plastic rear spoiler refinish advice needed.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Default Plastic rear spoiler refinish advice needed.


    This spoiler on another car.

    The clearcoat has failed so I've wet sanded it smooth with 600 and then 1500. Couple questions on refinishing it. Should I use an adhesion promoter next (I have some Bulldog) or use primer? After that, what to paint it with for gloss black? This trim paint?



    or this basecoat followed by their clearcoat?



    Can either of those be wet sanded afterwards?

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    You can wet sand almost anything but it depends on what you are looking to do after that. Paint that stays soft can be difficult to polish.

    If you expose a plastic structure then an adhesion promoter may be best.
    Last edited by Len; 05-01-2021 at 07:47 PM.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2015
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    Ok will use adhesion promoter, then paint.

  4. #4
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by atikovi View Post

    This spoiler on another car.

    The clearcoat has failed so I've wet sanded it smooth with 600 and then 1500. Couple questions on refinishing it. Should I use an adhesion promoter next (I have some Bulldog) or use primer? After that, what to paint it with for gloss black? This trim paint?



    or this basecoat followed by their clearcoat?



    Can either of those be wet sanded afterwards?
    Not sure what you're after other than a nice glossy black spoiler but I'll start here.

    Should you use BLACK? IF you've broken through the black color of the spoiler then you will have to respray with some black.

    NOW: Keep in mind, while SEM does make some good product, they're not really intended to take the place of a regular automotive top coat paint. Most all they have is used as more of a restorer than a refinisher. This is NOT to say it won't work for you but your last sentence is asking, "Can either of those be wet sanded afterwards?" Reading that, my first thought was you might be suggesting wet sand then BUFF and I'm not sure SEM is up to the heat that might be generated in the buffing process.

    The other thing with SEM products I've used over many years on exterior or interior color trim as well as black, is they require LIGHT coats (since what comes out of the can is very thin) be built up to the color you're after with the intent they, again, are more of a top dressing.

    I'm not sure how far into this work you are (I see you've been a member here for over 5 years) and if you have the capabilities of spraying the spoiler with a single stage or bc/cc you might be better off. The other thing is, do you know anyone at a bodyshop where you could ask them to paint the thing for you. What you spend on SEM products and other material may well pay for that small piece to get shot. Most shops will have black paint and your piece can be sitting in black and get shot with clearcoat along with another job they might be doing since you already have it prepped. I would guess not over $50 and you could end up with a finish not questionable as the SEM might be down the road.

    Below is a video of "SEM" using the FACTORY PACK on a radiator support (not an exterior piece subject to the sun & elements). I'm impressed they use BASE URETHANE but the clear might not live up to your expectations:



    Lastly, I would probably have only sanded that piece to 1000 as 1500 may well be too slippery for proper adhesion. That's my initial take on the thing to get it looking like the picture of the car you posted. Please let us know how you make out with it.

    Henry
    Last edited by Henry; 05-01-2021 at 10:28 PM.

  5. #5
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    Mar 2015
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    Besides the hassle of dropping off and picking up the car from the body shop, I can imagine they would charge more than $50 just to mask it off. I asked about wet sandability in case there would be any orange peel or runs.

  6. #6
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    Nov 2005
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    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by atikovi View Post
    Besides the hassle of dropping off and picking up the car from the body shop, I can imagine they would charge more than $50 just to mask it off. I asked about wet sandability in case there would be any orange peel or runs.
    OK, sorry, as I thought you have the spoiler OFF of the car. Your post in the quote herein came when I was adding a video from SEM for you.

    Best guess for you is IF you put enough of their clear on you should have enough to lightly sand and (YES) buff "gingerly". (I've done it years ago with DUPLICOLOR spray can paint and that's cheap lacquer.) I would wait a couple days for the product to cure. Maybe in an inconspicuous area, see if you can stick your fingernail in the paint to test for hardness. (Maybe spray a small area on the underside for this purpose.)

    If you need to respray the black, I would be tempted to use their FACTORY PACK and 'THEIR' 1K clear.

    Henry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    1,543

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by atikovi View Post

    This spoiler on another car.

    The clearcoat has failed so I've wet sanded it smooth with 600 and then 1500. Couple questions on refinishing it. Should I use an adhesion promoter next (I have some Bulldog) or use primer? After that, what to paint it with for gloss black? This trim paint?



    or this basecoat followed by their clearcoat?



    Can either of those be wet sanded afterwards?
    something to consider, if the clearcoat failed, the base would be suspect too. i'd strip all of that off so you can be sure of a lasting repair.
    b marler

  8. #8
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    something to consider, if the clearcoat failed, the base would be suspect too. i'd strip all of that off so you can be sure of a lasting repair.
    And another consideration is to use a two part clear like the one shown below. They get hard quicker and hold up much better than single part products.


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