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Thread: Door Edge Repair?

  1. #16
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    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob K View Post
    If you can shoot the primer on why not clean your gun and shoot the black on, clean the gun again and shoot the clear on. You may get some dust on but that can be sanded and buffed out. Take your old door to a good paint store and get it camera matched in case there are variants for your color. You should be done in 2 hours or less. You can always sand the new paint and have a shop do it if you aren’t happy with your work. I forgot, in answer to your question I would do the epoxy. Others may say otherwise. It’s your choice.

    Bob K
    I continue to agree with you (over 15yrs now+) and know he could do it as you say.

    I just read on that he used spray cans thus far. I like what you said to him (as follows):

    "You may surprise yourself at how good it looks."

    Very good and true "inspiration" as usual from you Bob!

    Henry

  2. #17
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    I wish I had the proper equipment I would totally do it myself. I have done 2k spray cans before and it came out nice, I had to wet sand the clear coat a little but that was it. Problem is I can not find pxr brilliant black crystal pearl in a 2k spray can anywhere, I can find 2k primer and 2k clear but not the matching pxr paint.

  3. #18
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Just1me View Post
    Sorry it's been a while, I was sick and I also went on vacation. I went ahead and bought another door but unfortunately it needs repainted. When I bought it they listed it as pxr brilliant black but when I got it I realized it was two tone with gold bottom. The door came complete I only noticed 2 very small low spots, one very tiny ding and another slight low spot on the upper part of the door. I started sanding the door with 320 grit, but there are some spots that are bare metal where the paint was chipped around the edges and on the low spot of the upper part of door. I did apply filler and sanded it out in the two low spots with 320 but I have a couple questions. I plan on getting the door repainted at a shop but before I do I was curious as to if I should use a 2k epoxy primer or 2k self etch primer on the bare metal spots? I am trying to save money by doing as much of the prep work that I can and also save time for the painter, but a professional opinion would mean a lot. I attached a few pics of the door. Attachment 31435Attachment 31436Attachment 31437
    Yes PXR is the paint code on Dodge Ram trucks for Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl. Dodge first introduced the PXR paint scheme in 2003 and was used on various vehicles and is still in use as of 2021. I did some paint work last year on my daughters 2018 Caravan with the PXR paint code using PPG paint code 5931 Brilliant Black. However, PPG made several variations in their Dodge/Chrysler PXR paint codes through the years (I suspect to get a better color match). My jobber ended up using a camera and paint chips to get a perfect match. I include this info so you can understand the difficulty in getting a perfect color match from various paint suppliers if you decide to paint it yourself.

    By priming it yourself you may actually be adding more time to a shops prep work prior to painting unless you sand the primer yourself (I would not use a rattle can primer). As you already have it sanded out to 320g and if it is ready to accept coatings without further feathering, it is a simple matter of shooting several coats of epoxy primer (a good epoxy primer can also act as a sealer), let it flash off and spray bc/cc. Just make sure all your scratches are at least 320g by sanding repair areas using guide coat. Personally I would hit it with a good epoxy primer and sand out to 600g (again using guide coat), making the final Spray out finished
    in one to 2 hours easily.

    No way would I ever consider using an etching primer on this repair, you are asking for problems.

  4. #19
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    Thank you for the advice. What about using a 2k epoxy primer in a can, would that be ok? Would you just paint over the exposed metal areas or the whole door with the epoxy primer? Also as you said I would prefer sanding with 600g before bc/cc.

  5. #20
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by Just1me View Post
    I wish I had the proper equipment I would totally do it myself. I have done 2k spray cans before and it came out nice, I had to wet sand the clear coat a little but that was it. Problem is I can not find pxr brilliant black crystal pearl in a 2k spray can anywhere, I can find 2k primer and 2k clear but not the matching pxr paint.
    Try your (local ?) auto paint supply place as they can make you a spray can of what you want. At least you'd have the right color "BY CODE" anyway.

    Actually, polish up a piece of your truck (gas cap door) and take it with you as I'm sure they will have VARIABLES of the color to choose from for a better match. Spray can of base should be around $20 and DO NOT USE DUPLICOLOR as it's LACQUER BASE and urethane clear will peel right off.

    Keep us posted, please.

    Henry

  6. #21
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Just1me View Post
    Thank you for the advice. What about using a 2k epoxy primer in a can, would that be ok? Would you just paint over the exposed metal areas or the whole door with the epoxy primer? Also as you said I would prefer sanding with 600g before bc/cc.
    I know several members here have used a good 2k rattle can primer with success. Personally I rarely use rattle can anything so can't comment. In order to make sure you have good uniform color match I would start by hitting the exposed repair areas with a good single coat of epoxy primer, flash it off and hit the entire door afterwards with 2 medium coats. If you are taking the door to a shop to have the finish coats applied after you primer; allow primer to dry per TDS before sanding, Sand with 320g wet followed by 600g wet using guide coat. Wrap and protect the door from contaminants until drop off at painter. I generally try to paint within 24-48 hours after final sand, if this isn't possible I protect the surface from shop and environmental contaminants.
    Last edited by Ronf; 06-03-2021 at 04:14 PM.

  7. #22
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Try your (local ?) auto paint supply place as they can make you a spray can of what you want. At least you'd have the right color "BY CODE" anyway.

    Actually, polish up a piece of your truck (gas cap door) and take it with you as I'm sure they will have VARIABLES of the color to choose from for a better match. Spray can of base should be around $20 and DO NOT USE DUPLICOLOR as it's LACQUER BASE and urethane clear will peel right off.

    Keep us posted, please.

    Henry
    i've had mixed results with those spray cans loaded at the paint store. you'd think they would use higher quality nozzles, i usually replace them with ones i've harvested from other cans. i don't use them for automotive work though, and doing a whole door would be a stretch i think, if you were looking for professional results. i think the op is doing the right thing by only doing the primer and sending it to the painter. actually, i would only spot prime it and send it to the painter for full prime and paint. the painter will have a more experienced eye as to how it's prepped.
    but if he's determined to get it fully prepared for paint ronf laid out a good strategy.
    b marler

  8. #23
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    i've had mixed results with those spray cans loaded at the paint store. you'd think they would use higher quality nozzles, i usually replace them with ones i've harvested from other cans. i don't use them for automotive work though, and doing a whole door would be a stretch i think, if you were looking for professional results. i think the op is doing the right thing by only doing the primer and sending it to the painter. actually, i would only spot prime it and send it to the painter for full prime and paint. the painter will have a more experienced eye as to how it's prepped.
    but if he's determined to get it fully prepared for paint ronf laid out a good strategy.
    This is all great advice. A door is a large panel with a lot of show and depending on a rattle can nozzle for uniform coverage, when compared to a professional gun result is just not something I would consider. I really like bmarler's idea of spot priming and have the painter lay primer for entire door for a uniform coverage as it alleviates his need to sand anything, cheaper for you and a quality finish. By spot priming and sanding those area with guide coat you ensure yourself the door is ready for paint

  9. #24
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    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    i've had mixed results with those spray cans loaded at the paint store. you'd think they would use higher quality nozzles, i usually replace them with ones i've harvested from other cans. i don't use them for automotive work though, and doing a whole door would be a stretch i think, if you were looking for professional results. i think the op is doing the right thing by only doing the primer and sending it to the painter. actually, i would only spot prime it and send it to the painter for full prime and paint. the painter will have a more experienced eye as to how it's prepped.
    but if he's determined to get it fully prepared for paint ronf laid out a good strategy.
    I do agree with what you have said, however, we are looking at a couple different scenarios here.

    First is, he wants to do the job himself. Granted, he should use a spray GUN not cans but, paint shops sell so many of these setups for people with one pane or a small section and my guy doesn't use lousy nozzles (although my gun is used).

    Anyway, you & Ronf are nearing a fine line here bordering on (bringing your own steak to a restaurant and asking the cook to prepare it for you!)

    What I mean is, what shop would JUST apply paint (and stand behind it) over your (our) prep or foundation? I would not wish to attend that party and would encourage that we take the panel down a little and apply our own primer/sealer then paint (if you follow).

    Again guys, I hear perfectly what you are saying and agree but it just may not work out in the real world.

    SO, his choices are two: Go at it with spray cans (I feel would work) - mixed by a paint shop.

    OR, bite the bullet and let a shop finish the paintwork on the door (including primer.)

    Henry

  10. #25
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    I do agree with what you have said, however, we are looking at a couple different scenarios here.

    First is, he wants to do the job himself. Granted, he should use a spray GUN not cans but, paint shops sell so many of these setups for people with one pane or a small section and my guy doesn't use lousy nozzles (although my gun is used).

    Anyway, you & Ronf are nearing a fine line here bordering on (bringing your own steak to a restaurant and asking the cook to prepare it for you!)

    What I mean is, what shop would JUST apply paint (and stand behind it) over your (our) prep or foundation? I would not wish to attend that party and would encourage that we take the panel down a little and apply our own primer/sealer then paint (if you follow).

    Again guys, I hear perfectly what you are saying and agree but it just may not work out in the real world.

    SO, his choices are two: Go at it with spray cans (I feel would work) - mixed by a paint shop.

    OR, bite the bullet and let a shop finish the paintwork on the door (including primer.)

    Henry

    henry,

    I humbly bow to your experience as I just don't use rattle cans other than adhesives and a few minor incidentals. My line of thinking was a rattle can nozzle pattern for bc/cc (in which I absolutely admit I have zero experience with) vs a professional gun such as my Sagola or Sata. It just seems to me an entire door panel in a black pearl is asking for problems when not properly applied, however I have no experience in rattle can in this type of environment and absolutely defer to your experience. It's always nice for somebody to keep us in check.

  11. #26
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    If you want it to look original I'd say it should be sprayed using a spray gun for primer, color and clear. If it was just small spots then an aerosol may work but proper prep and blending would be required. But on an entire door I would think it would be almost impossible to get an invisible repair using an aerosol and even with the proper tools the surrounding panels may need to be blended to get a good match.

  12. #27
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    Default Really ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    henry,

    I humbly bow to your experience as I just don't use rattle cans other than adhesives and a few minor incidentals. My line of thinking was a rattle can nozzle pattern for bc/cc (in which I absolutely admit I have zero experience with) vs a professional gun such as my Sagola or Sata. It just seems to me an entire door panel in a black pearl is asking for problems when not properly applied, however I have no experience in rattle can in this type of environment and absolutely defer to your experience. It's always nice for somebody to keep us in check.
    Ron, don't go there and never feel that way, please.

    YES, I have a bunch of experience old school experience! You know, the way this field and the products we use persist on rapid changes, seems the more YOU know and I'M not up on.

    Listen what you say is absolutely correct and I think Len agrees as well. My only serious comment was he has no spray GUN or product.

    In addition, the matter of his expectations of the finished product when done has to be considered in HIS thinking. I mean if he bought a red junk yard door and wanted it the same color then that's one thing. If he has the pride in matching, that's another thing.

    I think he might want to hook up with a shop and get them to shoot the door with what is required to reach his expectations. And NO; Buzz Bombs Are Never a solution but are available.

    LASTLY RON: You know me and the respect I have had for all your work. You are a true ACE. In addition, the older I get, the better YOU become! All's good!

    Henry

  13. #28
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    I do agree with what you have said, however, we are looking at a couple different scenarios here.

    First is, he wants to do the job himself. Granted, he should use a spray GUN not cans but, paint shops sell so many of these setups for people with one pane or a small section and my guy doesn't use lousy nozzles (although my gun is used).

    Anyway, you & Ronf are nearing a fine line here bordering on (bringing your own steak to a restaurant and asking the cook to prepare it for you!)

    What I mean is, what shop would JUST apply paint (and stand behind it) over your (our) prep or foundation? I would not wish to attend that party and would encourage that we take the panel down a little and apply our own primer/sealer then paint (if you follow).

    Again guys, I hear perfectly what you are saying and agree but it just may not work out in the real world.

    SO, his choices are two: Go at it with spray cans (I feel would work) - mixed by a paint shop.

    OR, bite the bullet and let a shop finish the paintwork on the door (including primer.)

    Henry
    lol, i'd bring my steak and ask to use the kitchen Henry,
    i was exactly thinking that the painter wouldn't want to guarantee anything he didn't do himself, that's why i mentioned spot prime and deliver to the painter for full prime and paint. spot prime to protect the bare spots during transit.
    i believe you or i could make it look reasonable using aerosol mixed from the store, but i have no idea what the op has for skills in painting. maybe he's good to go, and maybe his expectations are tempered. but i sense he's trying to get professional results while saving as much money as possible.
    b marler

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Ron, don't go there and never feel that way, please.

    YES, I have a bunch of experience old school experience! You know, the way this field and the products we use persist on rapid changes, seems the more YOU know and I'M not up on.

    Listen what you say is absolutely correct and I think Len agrees as well. My only serious comment was he has no spray GUN or product.

    In addition, the matter of his expectations of the finished product when done has to be considered in HIS thinking. I mean if he bought a red junk yard door and wanted it the same color then that's one thing. If he has the pride in matching, that's another thing.

    I think he might want to hook up with a shop and get them to shoot the door with what is required to reach his expectations. And NO; Buzz Bombs Are Never a solution but are available.

    LASTLY RON: You know me and the respect I have had for all your work. You are a true ACE. In addition, the older I get, the better YOU become! All's good!

    Henry

    henry,

    All is good my friend and I absolutely understand where you're coming from. I know I have a tendency too over post detailed information and from time to time ask too much from an OP. It's just hard for me too wrap my head around all the time, effort, and expense it takes to get just a single panel ready for paint that may not fill their expectations.

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