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Thread: Rocker panel fix question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    886

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    Different size slide weights ?? The stud welder kit comes with one slide hammer with one weight or you can use the one handed pin puller that doesn't use a slide.

    One of the problems with heating the metal up prior to pulling a dent is the odds go way up of ripping the studs right out of the metal you just heated leaving a hole where the pin was. I really don't think using a shrinking tip on the stud welder on thicker metal like a rocker panel damage will do any good.

    On really bad dents/damage on rocker panel thick metal I have used a cut off whizzer wheel to cut the damaged section of the rocker off the car. Hammer and dolly the damage back out then weld it back in the rocker. But like the original poster stated - he's not a welder. so that is out.
    That dent isn't that bad anyway and should pull out pretty easy. That dent is going to take as much use with a hammer as the stud welder pulling pins. The gap between the rocker and door bottom is going to be tight and will need to be widened back out in that damaged area. That in itself can be challenging.
    I actually wasn't referring to that particular slide weight other than too say it may not be enough to pull his rocker dent. I have and use 4 or 5 different size slide hammers that range from 2 to 13 pounds that I can match the metal thickness too for pulling. I always start with the lightest weight possible and work up as needed. I may have misrepresented what I was referring to when applying heat to the panel. I don't like starting a pull with cold metal nor am I talking about applying white or orange heat to the point you rip the metal. I use a mapp gas hand held torch (as opposed to my acetylene torch) to pre heat the metal away from the pins and towards the inner most dent for a few seconds to assist the pull, really works nicely. I think you will agree that when a dent occurs it stretches the metal beyond factory fit and must either be shrunk or cut and replaced in order to bring the factory panel back into alignment. While we both may use a slightly different approach to a repair of this nature I think the OP can extrapolate enough information from the advice given for his repair.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    117

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    Quote Originally Posted by mellis18 View Post
    I tried the stud welder with the larger pins but they snapped off. Maybe I didn't hold the stud welder on long enough. I'll hold it longer and try again.
    Stud welder should work, but you need to use a number of studs and gradually pull it out. I'd probably have 6 or more on that. They also make tools that allow you to grab a few pins at once to pull on the panel, but I've done a few heavy dents with just the T handle from my H&S stud welder kit. Do you have a plan for spraying some corrosion protection in the rocker? Generally the stud welder will burn off whatever coating was on the other side of the panel. I'm sure Len can recommend something to spray in there once you have it repaired and painted.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by fj5gtx View Post
    Stud welder should work, but you need to use a number of studs and gradually pull it out. I'd probably have 6 or more on that. They also make tools that allow you to grab a few pins at once to pull on the panel, but I've done a few heavy dents with just the T handle from my H&S stud welder kit. Do you have a plan for spraying some corrosion protection in the rocker? Generally the stud welder will burn off whatever coating was on the other side of the panel. I'm sure Len can recommend something to spray in there once you have it repaired and painted.
    Thanks to all for great advice!!! I will try a little heat and add a little time to sticking the pin. I also will stick a number of pins and work it slowly. I think I was a little too anxious in my first attempt. It won't need to be perfect but pulled enough so I don't need as much filler. I'll be using Eastwood's rust encapsulator product with the 360 degree nozzle to add some coating to the inside of the rocker. There is a little factory hole just forward of the dent that I'll use to get in there. Also there will be side mouldings that will be mounted to the rocker panel when done.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    117

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    Alternate way if you're having alot of trouble pulling it out, is to cut a hole in the back of the rocker and pound out the front with a tapered brass drift. Then weld the patch in the back. Usually the back is flat except for an occasional strengthening rib, I can usually make those completely disappear. Related note, I recommend buying a $10 shrinking tip for your stud welder, they shrink the steel pretty good.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    886

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    Quote Originally Posted by mellis18 View Post
    Thanks to all for great advice!!! I will try a little heat and add a little time to sticking the pin. I also will stick a number of pins and work it slowly. I think I was a little too anxious in my first attempt. It won't need to be perfect but pulled enough so I don't need as much filler. I'll be using Eastwood's rust encapsulator product with the 360 degree nozzle to add some coating to the inside of the rocker. There is a little factory hole just forward of the dent that I'll use to get in there. Also there will be side mouldings that will be mounted to the rocker panel when done.
    After pulling dent I would use a short strand fiberglass body filler to level area (see link below). While this may not receive the same vibration, impact and wear such as a door edge, it is still in an area that will receive lots of use and too some extent vibration. Follow the SS fiber filler with a standard filler and all will be just fine and last for years.

    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=FM

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