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Thread: Roll on primer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    20

    Default Roll on primer

    I've been searching this forum for roll on primer threads and have found a few. Good info since I'm going to be rolling on my primer. I have a few questions...

    1. Has anyone use the Eastwood roll on primer system product? (I know there is some product offered on this forum but I already purchased their system...just trying to get some tips from anyone who has used it ).
    2. I saw one thread that a poster suggested that the car not be taken down to bare metal. Why?
    3. If it is not taken down to bare metal what are the areas of concern when the roll on primer is applied? I will be using guide coat and both the epoxy and urethan primers are DTM.
    4. If I don't take it all down to bare metal how can I be assured the primer will stick?
    5. I do have a few areas where previous POs have used filler. Should I remove all old filler and replace with filler of my choice? (I will be attempting to straighten most areas the best I can so I will use minimal filler).

    Working on a 66 Mustang Coupe.

    Thanks in advance for advice!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mellis18 View Post
    I've been searching this forum for roll on primer threads and have found a few. Good info since I'm going to be rolling on my primer. I have a few questions...

    1. Has anyone use the Eastwood roll on primer system product? (I know there is some product offered on this forum but I already purchased their system...just trying to get some tips from anyone who has used it ).
    2. I saw one thread that a poster suggested that the car not be taken down to bare metal. Why?
    3. If it is not taken down to bare metal what are the areas of concern when the roll on primer is applied? I will be using guide coat and both the epoxy and urethan primers are DTM.
    4. If I don't take it all down to bare metal how can I be assured the primer will stick?
    5. I do have a few areas where previous POs have used filler. Should I remove all old filler and replace with filler of my choice? (I will be attempting to straighten most areas the best I can so I will use minimal filler).

    Working on a 66 Mustang Coupe.

    Thanks in advance for advice!
    most, if not all primers can be roll applied. i don't do it as the coverage is inconsistent and it takes more sanding to get it level. it certainly can be done though.
    with a car that age with original paint it would be best to take it to metal. the original coatings are probably lacquer based and aren't a good foundation for a long lasting re-paint.
    my rule of thumb is, if i don't know what's there, or didn't apply it myself, i take it off. that includes filler, paint, primer.
    primer will stick to any properly prepared (clean, sanded.) surface.
    b marler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    20

    Default Thanks bmarler

    Down to metal is what I thought. This car has had at least 5-6 paints jobs over the course of its life and its been a chore getting all the paint off. Been using aircraft stripper, orbital sander, razor blade, hand sanding, 7" sander, etc. Guess I'll continue to create lots of paint dust in my garage.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    886

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    most, if not all primers can be roll applied. i don't do it as the coverage is inconsistent and it takes more sanding to get it level. it certainly can be done though.
    with a car that age with original paint it would be best to take it to metal. the original coatings are probably lacquer based and aren't a good foundation for a long lasting re-paint.
    my rule of thumb is, if i don't know what's there, or didn't apply it myself, i take it off. that includes filler, paint, primer.
    primer will stick to any properly prepared (clean, sanded.) surface.
    Follow bmarler advice, as usual he is spot on. I have never used the Eastwood primers and have never applied primer rolled on, but just as he points out, roll on primers would really create a lot of sanding and uneven surfaces. If you have a compressor or access too one, at minimum I would consider a cheap $30 gun for spraying even if you have to over reduce, as opposed to rolling on a primer. What is your project and how much of the project needs primer? Again, as bmarler points out going down to metal eliminates ALL questions concerning adhesion, possible rust, previous repairs you didn't know existed, etc..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mellis18 View Post
    Down to metal is what I thought. This car has had at least 5-6 paints jobs over the course of its life and its been a chore getting all the paint off. Been using aircraft stripper, orbital sander, razor blade, hand sanding, 7" sander, etc. Guess I'll continue to create lots of paint dust in my garage.
    I am stripping my car again, for a professional paint job. I made arrangements to strip it myself to bare metal, pull off all the filler, scratch out as much seam sealer as I can, and then apply epoxy primer. It will then go to the painter. I am using Eastwood’s roll on epoxy primer only. It applies very easily, and I roll it multiple directions, just to make sure that it isn’t crazy thick in any areas.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    44,328

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jsand160 View Post
    I am stripping my car again, for a professional paint job. I made arrangements to strip it myself to bare metal, pull off all the filler, scratch out as much seam sealer as I can, and then apply epoxy primer. It will then go to the painter. I am using Eastwood’s roll on epoxy primer only. It applies very easily, and I roll it multiple directions, just to make sure that it isn’t crazy thick in any areas.
    I've always been afraid of rolling primer over large surfaces because extensive block sanding could be needed to give you a level surface. If you are doing the rolling you may want to also do the guide coating and block sanding.

    If the car is going to be a light color then leveling the surface may not be as critical. It's all what you want to end up with as far as perfection goes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I've always been afraid of rolling primer over large surfaces because extensive block sanding could be needed to give you a level surface. If you are doing the rolling you may want to also do the guide coating and block sanding.

    If the car is going to be a light color then leveling the surface may not be as critical. It's all what you want to end up with as far as perfection goes.
    I intend to guide coat and block sand the epoxy right before it goes to the painter, so that I use my labor and not have to pay him to do it. The epoxy coverage is more for insurance from rust while I strip it to bare metal. The painter doesn't want me to apply anything else or he won’t warranty the paint. He wants to do the fillers, high build primers, etc.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    886

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jsand160 View Post
    I intend to guide coat and block sand the epoxy right before it goes to the painter, so that I use my labor and not have to pay him to do it. The epoxy coverage is more for insurance from rust while I strip it to bare metal. The painter doesn't want me to apply anything else or he won’t warranty the paint. He wants to do the fillers, high build primers, etc.
    I'm a little surprised he will honor the warranty with a roll on primer since he will have no first hand knowledge of surface prep. I'm guessing you have checked with your painter on the products and procedures you are using? I've never used a roll on primer or Eastwood primer but you need to be prepared for break through while leveling the surface, it will happen.

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