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Thread: 3M 05954 Super Duty Rubbing Compound

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCCLARK View Post
    I have noticed when I try to match the color on a panel that I've painted with my big gun
    using an airbrush or even a "touch-up" gun that it doesn't match for some strange reason.
    I suspect it's the atomization of the smaller sprayers, that it's finer.
    It may work well for non metallic paints but I always go back with my bigger gun
    to get it right.

    And I've never been able to keep a chip repair small, I don't even try to anymore.
    There are a lot of variables and the main one is the type and color of the paint. If it's a metallic everything effects it, like the gun, the temperature, the air pressure and the way it's applied. When we want to match a small spot like a chip we normally use a small to mid-size gun (not an air brush) and the extend the blended materials 4 to 6 inches from the chip.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Marler,

    I really appreciate your encouragement! Having little experience with tri coat I let this get into my head. The fender is ready for a respray. I'm actually not too worried about matching the panels considering I have all my spray out cards that show paint mix info (I mix by gram weight), which gun and tip I used along the way, Sun gun for hue matching, etc. as I go. Ford Ruby Red tri coat is known to be a hard shot, just as Phil V stated "Ford Ruby Red tri stage is a bitch to blend. I'll let it go at that".

    However I can't seem to leave things alone. I've always been curious if a stone chip or a short length deep scratch (maybe under 3-4") repair might be accomplished with an air brush if the panel/repair area is properly prepped. Since I painted the underside of all 4 fenders (less the mid tinted pearl coat) this gave me the perfect canvas to practice on with an air brush. This morning I also shot 4 new color card panels to practice on with the air brush for stone chip and scratch repair. I wanted to leave my original cards pristine for future use.

    Several weeks ago I contacted Paasche and posed this question to them (I have an Paasche Master air brush and Central pneumatic Airbrush compressor with #3, #5 and #8 tips). They gave me a wealth of info for air brushing (evidently the Paasche tip number doesn't correspond to mm size and are much larger, at least for Paasche). Paasche stated my #5 tip is equivalent to a 1.003 tip and will carry metallic. So I've been playing with the #5 and 8 tips and over reducing the materials. If nothing else I once again get to learn and build on my knowledge base. Hopefully by this evening fender will be done..lol. Damn why can't I just leave things alone.

    Anybody ever tried an air brush for small chip repairs?
    i feel like the best you can do with the air brush is make a chip less noticeable. especially since it's such a tough color to repair. it might be good enough depending on where it's located, but if it's front and center you might have to do the bigger repair.
    b marler

  3. #33

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    I watched a guy fix chips at a used car lot once and he used a syringe to
    apply the paint, like what you get a shot with,
    he'd fill the chip with paint then sand and buff it out.
    He got pretty good results and I was quite impressed.
    I still don't understand how he got the metallics to look ok.
    He mixed his colors right there to match.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07N95TXM8/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

    This little pen works like a charm....very precise and co trollable..

    I'd apply some paint, some clear with hardener , let it cure and sand and polish a little dot...

    Tri coat blends into the panel and not complete panel clear coating are so so difficult, and I paint something every day..

    Ruby Red tinted clear coat procedure is very tricky and precise, it takes patience and planning.

    What Ron did is very brave brave and very good, almost textbook..


    So the assumption is everything is done right ubtill application of the non tinted clear coat..


    I would have done only a few things different.....I would sand all blend areas with 1000 and 1200 and 1500 gradually outside, apply clear to 1000 grit sanded area and fan my gun slightly out towards 1200 area , some droplets that land further out will adhere to 1500...

    Now two ways of approaching fade out....you can extend clear coat the farthest way out 1st coat and then second coat back into the repair so it is not so thick...less thickness and overlap to sand polish and buff..less of that edge to melt out..

    Either using blending solvent or reducer and fine mist it into 1200 to 1500 sanded area extending slightly out..:

    So let's assume all of this is done, I would let this cure well for at least 2, 3dayd or apply IR lamp before buffing..

    Now tricky part....it is important not to sand aggressively, just slightly with 2000 grit the transition area and start polishing with low speed and whatever compound you like...i use Faneca g360, the best I ever tried...

    So polish, stop, wipe and check....easy does it...don't overdoit, don't overheat, it will lift clearcoat and you will.start chasing that edge....and then you are in trouble....

    And yes, the repair edge area will always fail, mo matter who does it, UV rays will do their thing, it is inevitable....i see some of my blend sail area repairs after several years and I can notice them..

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by baubau View Post
    the repair edge area will always fail, mo matter who does it, UV rays will do their thing, it is inevitable....
    So true, this is always the case over time.

    Clear coat the entire panel, or at the very least hide the edge into a body seam, or under a trim molding if possible.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    if anyone can do it, you can. you have the cards to compare, and that's a plus. your other variables are fairly tightly controlled as well. it will be mounted the same way you did it originally too. i think your chances are very good. actually i half expected to see new pictures by now. the rate you get stuff done is amazing to me.
    Marler,

    I did do the re-spray the next morning. Unfortunately I had 4 or 5 car buddies show up at the shop early the next morning (real early and with no beer, geez) needing various mechanical repairs and touch ups as Good Guys started the next day. Fender was actually quite simple with a quick scratch and hit. Finally got around to sanding and buffing out today, I think it came it fine. Leaned a lot on this tri coat repair. Hopefully I can stay on my build for a while.
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  7. #37
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    Nov 2013
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    olympia,wa
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    no beer? and they call themselves friends?
    that fender looks spectacular. that thing is going to be amazing when you get it all together.
    b marler

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    no beer? and they call themselves friends?
    that fender looks spectacular. that thing is going to be amazing when you get it all together.
    Thanks buddy I appreciate it! Nope, brought no beer but when I caught up with them at GG show they they redeemed themselves,lol

  9. #39
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    Sep 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post


    Ronf, those fenders look gorgeous!

    Itís no wonder friends come to you for paint work.

    As for the beer, I too was a little concerned to hear they showed up empty handed, but, good friends always make up for it in the end!

    Ronf.jpg

  10. #40
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by S-C View Post
    Ronf, those fenders look gorgeous!

    Itís no wonder friends come to you for paint work.

    As for the beer, I too was a little concerned to hear they showed up empty handed, but, good friends always make up for it in the end!

    Ronf.jpg
    Thanks S-C, that is a jacket meant for me (literally), gotta love it! Seriously, my car buddies always do me right but I love giving them a hard time. I am privileged to work on and be around some of the most unique classic hot rods ever produced. From the GG's show their rides took home several awards so we will be doing our annual get together tomorrow night in the shop...they better bring beer

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