TheCoatingStore.com

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: Which rust converter

  1. #1

    Default Which rust converter

    Just got a recycled bed for my 95 Nissan.
    The bed is solid but has surface rust.
    My plan is to use a rust converter and than bed liner.
    What’s a good rust converter that I can bed liner over?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tropicalcats View Post
    Just got a recycled bed for my 95 Nissan.
    The bed is solid but has surface rust.
    My plan is to use a rust converter and than bed liner.
    What’s a good rust converter that I can bed liner over?
    I would like to know the answer to your question as well... but with that much rust & old paint involved I would consider having it media blasted.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    44,895

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tropicalcats View Post
    Just got a recycled bed for my 95 Nissan.
    The bed is solid but has surface rust.
    My plan is to use a rust converter and than bed liner.
    What’s a good rust converter that I can bed liner over?
    Blasting is always best but if you can remove loose paint and loose rust then we would use Picklex 20 and Zero Rust after the Picklex treatment.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    152

    Default Rust treatment

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Blasting is always best but if you can remove loose paint and loose rust then we would use Picklex 20 and Zero Rust after the Picklex treatment.

    So would Picklex and Zero Rust be a good option for a 50 inch rusted mower deck I am fixing up? Just scored a zero turn but the deck needs rebuilding and a bunch of surface rust on the underneath (sat on lawn for a year) needs some attention... Thanks in advance.
    dlm ny country.... Sagola frinedly

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    44,895

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dlmrun2002 View Post
    So would Picklex and Zero Rust be a good option for a 50 inch rusted mower deck I am fixing up? Just scored a zero turn but the deck needs rebuilding and a bunch of surface rust on the underneath (sat on lawn for a year) needs some attention... Thanks in advance.
    dlm ny country.... Sagola frinedly
    Yes if you can get rid of the loose rust then apply the Picklex using a pump sprayer work it in with a scuff pad then wipe it off and allow it to dry then spray on two or three coats of the Zero Rust. ZR fades in the sunlight but it will protect the surface for several years if applied properly.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Yes if you can get rid of the loose rust then apply the Picklex using a pump sprayer work it in with a scuff pad then wipe it off and allow it to dry then spray on two or three coats of the Zero Rust. ZR fades in the sunlight but it will protect the surface for several years if applied properly.
    Snds good. Thanks Len..

    dlm ny country

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    152

    Default Using Picklex and Zero Rust

    Got a chance to use the Picklex and Zero Rust ( fast ship-Thanks Len) on the mower deck I am rebuilding. Rubbed the Picklex in with a red scuff pad and then got it off clean. The Picklex left the metal looking similar to some PPG metal condiitioner ( DX 520) PPG_Dx 520_metal conditioner.jpg that I used in the 80's. Good stuff. Hoping to get a 2nd coat of Zero Rust on in a day or two. That stuff STINKS !!! As long as it works good

    dlm ny country

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    1,004

    Default LOen

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Blasting is always best but if you can remove loose paint and loose rust then we would use Picklex 20 and Zero Rust after the Picklex treatment.

    Len,

    I have been using Zero Rust on frames/chassis and underside of floor pans every since you put me onto this product a few years back (replaced POR15) with great results. However, I'm curious about the OP original question in which he wants to shoot a bedliner after rust clean up. Can you shoot bedliner over Zero Rust? If so do you give Zero Rust time to cure, scratch and shoot liner OR can you spray liner after Zero Rust flashes? On many projects I shoot bed liner on underside of floor pans to help sound dampening and moisture but it is always my fear I may be trapping moisture within the bedliner on underside of pans. Your thoughts?



    Just got a recycled bed for my 95 Nissan.
    The bed is solid but has surface rust.
    My plan is to use a rust converter and than bed liner.
    What’s a good rust converter that I can bed liner over?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    44,895

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Len,

    I have been using Zero Rust on frames/chassis and underside of floor pans every since you put me onto this product a few years back (replaced POR15) with great results. However, I'm curious about the OP original question in which he wants to shoot a bedliner after rust clean up. Can you shoot bedliner over Zero Rust? If so do you give Zero Rust time to cure, scratch and shoot liner OR can you spray liner after Zero Rust flashes? On many projects I shoot bed liner on underside of floor pans to help sound dampening and moisture but it is always my fear I may be trapping moisture within the bedliner on underside of pans. Your thoughts?



    Just got a recycled bed for my 95 Nissan.
    The bed is solid but has surface rust.
    My plan is to use a rust converter and than bed liner.
    What’s a good rust converter that I can bed liner over?
    I'm not a fan of using bed liner or POR15 or any heavier coating over rusted or bare metal because eventually the liner or POR can get a chip or crack and allow moisture to get trapped underneath causing more problems.

    The best rust treatment I've used is Picklex 20. Spray it on with a pump sprayer, work it in with a scuff pad then wipe off the excess and allow it to dry. After the Picklex dries scuff it lightly (I use red scuff pads) then apply a couple of coats of Zero Rust allowing each coat to flash. Allow the ZR to dry well then scuff before applying your bed liner. This process helps insure that any break in the liner or POR won't intensify a trapped moisture problem.

    PS. Before welding coat the metal with Picklex and check the result. You'll love it.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    18,687

    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I'm not a fan of using bed liner or POR15 or any heavier coating over rusted or bare metal because eventually the liner or POR can get a chip or crack and allow moisture to get trapped underneath causing more problems.

    The best rust treatment I've used is Picklex 20. Spray it on with a pump sprayer, work it in with a scuff pad then wipe off the excess and allow it to dry. After the Picklex dries scuff it lightly (I use red scuff pads) then apply a couple of coats of Zero Rust allowing each coat to flash. Allow the ZR to dry well then scuff before applying your bed liner. This process helps insure that any break in the liner or POR won't intensify a trapped moisture problem.

    PS. Before welding coat the metal with Picklex and check the result. You'll love it.

    Obviously, you've "been there, done that" many times over!

    Thank you!

    Henry

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    1,004

    Default Picklex and welding

    What are you trying to tell me,..lol? Acts as a weld through primer maybe? You just left me out there hanging didn't you? I bow to your experience, now give me the info.

    "PS. Before welding coat the metal with Picklex and check the result. You'll love it."

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    What are you trying to tell me,..lol? Acts as a weld through primer maybe? You just left me out there hanging didn't you? I bow to your experience, now give me the info.

    "PS. Before welding coat the metal with Picklex and check the result. You'll love it."
    I think Len means the Picklex is a great metal prep to use prior to welding.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    44,895

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    What are you trying to tell me,..lol? Acts as a weld through primer maybe? You just left me out there hanging didn't you? I bow to your experience, now give me the info.

    "PS. Before welding coat the metal with Picklex and check the result. You'll love it."
    Picklex 20 was originally developed for welding high pressure steel pipe carrying oil. In order to make the welds strong and without leaks they developed this product. When I use it for welding it helps the weld bite better and flow out better. Give it a try and let me know what you think.

    It just so happens that it is also a great metal/rust treatment also.
    Just don't prime over it with a primer containing acid.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    1,004

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Picklex 20 was originally developed for welding high pressure steel pipe carrying oil. In order to make the welds strong and without leaks they developed this product. When I use it for welding it helps the weld bite better and flow out better. Give it a try and let me know what you think.

    It just so happens that it is also a great metal/rust treatment also.
    Just don't prime over it with a primer containing acid.
    Len,

    Last night I hit one 8X8 small test panel with Picklex, after running through bead roller for lapping edges, for a weld test. With your latest reply I'm going to arrange a few more test pieces as I think this may be usable for a weld through primer. I'm sure you have used "Weld through primers" and experienced all the prep work and splatter that takes place. It has been my experience that most people don't understand how to use Weld through primers as they don't understand it is the heat that draws the primer into the area being welded but you have to put up with all the splatter if not properly prepared. I'm going to do a few more test pieces today with the hope that this will replace a dedicated "weld through" product as it would greatly diminish prep work and make welding easier, your thoughts?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    1,004

    Default Len

    BTW, I'm thinking backside of qt panels and floor pans

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •