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Thread: Color sanding grit progression?

  1. #1

    Default Color sanding grit progression?

    I've begun wet sanding my black single stage paint job. I have orange peel in many places to level out. In those areas, I started with 800 wet, using a narrow flat Durablock where I can. I had a couple runs and drips, and I sanded those level with 600. My question is, what would be the next step up from 800? 1,000? 1,200? Would 1,500 be used after that?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by sykotic View Post
    I've begun wet sanding my black single stage paint job. I have orange peel in many places to level out. In those areas, I started with 800 wet, using a narrow flat Durablock where I can. I had a couple runs and drips, and I sanded those level with 600. My question is, what would be the next step up from 800? 1,000? 1,200? Would 1,500 be used after that?
    What happens when you go to a finer grit you usually can't see if you've removed all the more coarse scratches unless you use a light guide coat applied before you start sanding. On black I'd use some white guide coat then sand with 1500 then 2000 or 2500 before polishing. Unfortunately the only white guide coat I know of is by Mirka and it's $39.00 a can.


  3. #3

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    Thanks for the information, Len. That's a dry guide coat, right? Is that going to work with wet sanding?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by sykotic View Post
    Thanks for the information, Len. That's a dry guide coat, right? Is that going to work with wet sanding?
    They say it works for wet sanding but I've never used it.


  5. #5

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    What do you recommend for the next finer grit after the 800?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sykotic View Post
    What do you recommend for the next finer grit after the 800?
    I'd say that 1000 or 1200 next.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I'd say that 1000 or 1200 next.
    Thanks, Len! Also, gonna try the Mirka white guide coat.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sykotic View Post
    Thanks, Len! Also, gonna try the Mirka white guide coat.
    Use a rubber squeegee to remove the excess water so that you can judge your progress.


  9. #9
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    Default Similar problem here need advice to effectivly cut through the

    Hello all. I new to the forums. I am in a similar situation to the original poster. I have a bonnet I have painted and it has a pretty bad orange peel on the clear. I am following the advice I have found all over the internet to use 1500 grit on a da sander to take out all the orange peel. My problem is, the 1500 is just not sanding it out and its getting dull after I cover only a 8"x8" area. It will take me many days to do just the bonnet! I have noticed the original poster has started with a very course (for refinishing clear) grit of 600 to start with. What is your opinion on this and would you recommend I go to a lower grit to try get out of the orange peel? Thanks for the tip on using a guide coat through progressions

    edit: just noticed your reply to a post saying that scuff pads aren't as efficient as sandpaper for leveling surfaces (such as orange peel). Great tip
    IMG_8387.jpg
    IMG_8386.jpg

  10. #10
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    In most cases you'll want to sand it using wet sandpaper so the water washes the dust out of the paper. Get some 3M Trizact 1500 grit and spray the surface using a pump sprayer and keep spraying periodically as you sand. Use a rubber squeegee to wipe the surface as you sand so that you can see your progress. After you level the peel with the 1500 you may want to switch to 3000 grit so that the buffing is much easier/faster.


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    In most cases you'll want to sand it using wet sandpaper so the water washes the dust out of the paper. Get some 3M Trizact 1500 grit and spray the surface using a pump sprayer and keep spraying periodically as you sand. Use a rubber squeegee to wipe the surface as you sand so that you can see your progress. After you level the peel with the 1500 you may want to switch to 3000 grit so that the buffing is much easier/faster.
    Thanks Len. Great advice. I just wanted to mention I've tried it with the few different brands of 1500 grit sandpaper and tried wet sanding it for a couple of hours and it wasn't doing much at all and nor is the orbital sander. I have a feeling this clear coat I purchased is extremely hard to sand. Do you think it would be a crazy idea to maybe try sand it with 1200 or lower?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom86 View Post
    Thanks Len. Great advice. I just wanted to mention I've tried it with the few different brands of 1500 grit sandpaper and tried wet sanding it for a couple of hours and it wasn't doing much at all and nor is the orbital sander. I have a feeling this clear coat I purchased is extremely hard to sand. Do you think it would be a crazy idea to maybe try sand it with 1200 or lower?
    As long as you have enough clear on the surface you can use almost any grit to level the surface but use the finer grit to remove the deeper scratches. When we get a run we will sometimes even use 600 to level the run then finer grits before polishing but always wet.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom86 View Post
    Thanks Len. Great advice. I just wanted to mention I've tried it with the few different brands of 1500 grit sandpaper and tried wet sanding it for a couple of hours and it wasn't doing much at all and nor is the orbital sander. I have a feeling this clear coat I purchased is extremely hard to sand. Do you think it would be a crazy idea to maybe try sand it with 1200 or lower?
    i use the finest grit that will still do the job. trizact is the best paper i've used, and finer grits of it are more effective than coarser grits of lesser paper.
    judging by how hard it is to level the peel, it will also be hard to remove the scratch marks from a coarse grit paper. i start with 1000 or 1200, but have gone to 800 to cut some surfaces. i finish with 3000 or 2500 and usually have no issue polishing out the scratch. some folks stop at 1500 and use coarser compound, depends on the product i guess.
    you can use a sanding block too, for leveling out the peel, then switch to the da to take out the scratch. hand sanding takes longer, but i actually like it better, more control.
    b marler

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    They say it works for wet sanding but I've never used it.

    I've used the white Mirka powder coat many times on dark reds, blues and black. Yes it will work and you will love it. However use a mist spray bottle to wet the surface prior to sanding as opposed to a wet rag to help retain more of the guide coat and rub your guide coat in good. I guide coat all my color sanding projects where I don't have to match a factory orange peel. I color sand single stage starting with 1000, 1500 wet Trizact, 2500 and 5000 Trizact before polishing. 5000 Trizact eliminates the need for compounding and eliminates all swirl marks. If for any reason my SS didn't lay perfect I will throw in 1200 wet between 1K and 1500 to help level the surface, getting overly aggressive, especially on edges, can cause break through or thinning. Prior to buffing (and on occasion sanding) I tape the hard edges with 3M 06529 tape. This tape contains no crepe(sp?) and pulls away smooth.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    What happens when you go to a finer grit you usually can't see if you've removed all the more coarse scratches unless you use a light guide coat applied before you start sanding.
    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    judging by how hard it is to level the peel, it will also be hard to remove the scratch marks from a coarse grit paper
    I spent most of today experimenting with my hood to try to remove the orange peel. I started with a 1200grit wet sand on a block and it took out the orange peel pretty good in about 1 hour. But after this step, I had big problems. I found it nearly impossible to sand out the 1200grit scratches using 1500grit papers and exactly as Len said I found it impossible to see if i removed the course scratches. I then tried a coat of Norton black dry guide coat to try to fill in the scratches and the wet sand approach washed it all off immediately. (2 things I've not yet tried is a 'white' guide coat and using the spray bottle to apply water to the panel instead of washing paper off in a bucket). After the 1500grit wet sand I went over the panel with 2000grit wet paper by hand and then used compound, then 3m polish (2). After noticing it had deep scratches, I went back to the 1500grit paper step and used an orbial sander with a garden hose and sanded the whole bonnet again using 2 1500g discs. Then repeated the process and I noticed it was a little better, but still has scratches, unfortunately. One thing I could try in the future is the 3M 1500 wet Trizact discs instead. I now completely understand why it's better to go no lower than 1500grit if you can avoid it.
    At this point still feel like I am unsure exactly where I'm going wrong.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    I've used the white Mirka powder coat many times on dark reds
    Sounds like here I should have used white power instead of black on my Burgandy car

    Everyone is pushing the 1500 wet Trizact so I'm almost certain I should be using it


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