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Thread: 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe Rebuild, "Bad Decision"

  1. #16
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    Default AND !!!

    Chad, I had asked you this a while back but. When you buy a salvage vehicle, part of the paperwork you receive normally includes the INSURANCE damage report. IF you did get that you can see if they called for frame repair and the hours they allowed. These reports often help lead us to damage they saw that we may have not. Check your papers and hope you find something even though you can carry one without it. Regards.

    Henry

  2. #17
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    Apr 2007
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    Default

    Wow!!! Didn't notice that, I'm thinking the top rail is pushed up and over, any ideals how to move it, without going to the frame shop?
    And yes, still use Bleach White, it's kind of a trade secret now. Seriously!

    Thanks.

  3. #18
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    I didn't pick the car up, a friend of mine did, he is pretty good about things, so I will say they didn't send it with the car.

    Thanks.

  4. #19
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    Default Really ?

    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    Wow!!! Didn't notice that, I'm thinking the top rail is pushed up and over, any ideals how to move it, without going to the frame shop?
    And yes, still use Bleach White, it's kind of a trade secret now. Seriously!

    Thanks.
    If mine, I would not touch the top rail until I confirmed the fitment of what looks like a leaning lower left frame rail. (See where that car took the impact IMO was enough in the lower frame rail to push things UP) No sense in beating the top down for the sake of fitting a fender.

    Notice how that fender has about the same gap shape in your initial pics as it does now. DID YOU do any movement with the right fender or is the pic we see how you got the car?

    The other VERY common thing that gets thrown off as well are/is the hood hinges (most times you can't see a bend) but it's there causing ill fitment. For the hell of it take that left (maybe even the right) hood hinge out, shim it with your hand and see what happens with the lines.

    (You know, near 10 years ago, we needed some papers for our DMV on a COPART car. It was years since we bought the car but ran it by them. Took about 3 days for them to say the copies were on the way. Difference being, we needed papers for legal DMV ignorance and you need them just because. Don't know who you bought the car through or their interaction with COPART but you can try (beats making snowballs!)

    Henry

  5. #20
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    I didn't pick the car up, a friend of mine did, he is pretty good about things, so I will say they didn't send it with the car.

    Thanks.
    Listen, it's really a moot point but understand, I believe YES the insurance paperwork WAS given to COPART as that is also their paperwork to put the car up for auction in the first place. Now, did COPART leave it in the file or misplace it, probably did but it was sent & received. (Just an FYI).

    Henry

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Listen, it's really a moot point but understand, I believe YES the insurance paperwork WAS given to COPART as that is also their paperwork to put the car up for auction in the first place. Now, did COPART leave it in the file or misplace it, probably did but it was sent & received. (Just an FYI).

    Henry
    Yes, I totally agree, the next time I buy at Copart, I will make sure I have the Insurance Paper work, so I'm not chasing my tail like I am now.

    I will also say this reminds me, just thought of this tonight. The first car I did with a friend, who is an autobody guy. We did a down and dirty pull on the front, cut out the core support, welded in the new one. Then he took another job, and couldn't help me, so when I was putting the fenders on, I had the same issue as I am now. Ended up having to have the car pulled again, then everything lined up.

    I have 2 fenders, both show the same, I replaced the hood hinges with used ones. Took some quick measurements, the lower frame rail seems to be pushed up a1/2. Still didn't see any kinks, but it's somewhere, will have to pull the air box, and crawl under it.

    Thanks.

  7. #22
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    Yes, I totally agree, the next time I buy at Copart, I will make sure I have the Insurance Paper work, so I'm not chasing my tail like I am now.

    I will also say this reminds me, just thought of this tonight. The first car I did with a friend, who is an autobody guy. We did a down and dirty pull on the front, cut out the core support, welded in the new one. Then he took another job, and couldn't help me, so when I was putting the fenders on, I had the same issue as I am now. Ended up having to have the car pulled again, then everything lined up.

    I have 2 fenders, both show the same, I replaced the hood hinges with used ones. Took some quick measurements, the lower frame rail seems to be pushed up a1/2. Still didn't see any kinks, but it's somewhere, will have to pull the air box, and crawl under it.

    Thanks.
    See your first sentence quoted above. Your next 'buy' should have someone knowledgeable to inspect the vehicle BEFORE you bid on it (look & touch) on inspection day. Understand that any insurance paperwork of damage may NOT be accurate but more use as a guide to direct you of where to look & pointing out some preexisting damage in some other area. Also, from the time of insurance appraisal, the vehicle is subject to one or more tows and the large fork lifts at the auction. ANY of which has been known to cause more damage.

    The other thing is any car you think you want, look at the damage (you can see) and scout around for known parts you'll need along with the value of the vehicle. Buying based on what you see online is bidding on a PICTURE and often we can get carried away.

    You bought USED hood hinges. Boneyards around here won't sell hinges from an undamaged hood so what they sold you "could" be questionable. Hey, I'm not trying to discourage you but will not 'sugarcoat' anything either. These vehicles were totaled for a reason and often time MERELY because they became a year older!

    Henry

  8. #23
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    As for the hood and hinges, I did buy them both from the same car, but it all came from a U Pull It. I took a look at the rail top, bottom, and by the fire wall, did not see anything major or minor really.
    So should just load it up, and take it to have the frame pulled, and what would be a ball park figure for that?

    Thanks.

  9. #24
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    Mar 2007
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    I looked at this....

    Left frame rail is twisted...all front end seem to be pushed to right, it has sway to the rifht..

    I don't like how the frame is twisted and some other gaps there is also vertical distortion as well, height is off..

    None of us here on forum cannot see or ascertisn for sure the extent of damage without seeing it or measured..

    So yes, take it to a shop, get it pulled and straightened...it is Covid time, some shops are slow, you could get a good deal..


    Without pull or rail replacement, you will struggle to fit anything..

  10. #25
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    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by baubau View Post
    I looked at this....

    Left frame rail is twisted...all front end seem to be pushed to right, it has sway to the rifht..

    I don't like how the frame is twisted and some other gaps there is also vertical distortion as well, height is off..

    None of us here on forum cannot see or ascertisn for sure the extent of damage without seeing it or measured..

    So yes, take it to a shop, get it pulled and straightened...it is Covid time, some shops are slow, you could get a good deal..

    Without pull or rail replacement, you will struggle to fit anything..
    Thank you 'baubau' for chiming in on this one. I really appreciate your opinion from what we can see in pictures. I know we all want to see and touch this car if we could.

    The best to you and family! Thanks.

    Henry

  11. #26
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    As for the hood and hinges, I did buy them both from the same car, but it all came from a U Pull It. I took a look at the rail top, bottom, and by the fire wall, did not see anything major or minor really.
    So should just load it up, and take it to have the frame pulled, and what would be a ball park figure for that?

    Thanks.
    Do you work with any body shops, have buddies that do or do you have to go blind?

    The other thing is, does this car drive assuming a body shop is not far away? Have anyone with a dealer plate who can drive the car to the shop? (In our state you can't drive salvage cars on the street other than for repair - in other words no errands or joyriding.)

    COST: Varies by shop but initial cost is 'setup time'. ($2 - 300) Get the car on the frame rack, tied down, etc. One thing good, in a way, is you have the front end parts off the car. And you do have replacement parts so if they pull they can use the bumper reinforcer as a guide as well as measurements and your fenders. (Take your pictures of the car with the damage with you.)

    A simple pull "guesstimate" maybe $400 total putting your fenders & bumper support on (maybe not completely bolted) but for them to use for alignment. Then you can sock it all down later. Depends on the shop.

    (Another thing you can do and this is really backyard tacky is to talk with the shop or frame guy and 1. show him your pics and explain 2. you need it checked out, 3. repaired and 4. you have replacement parts and 5. ask for a ballpark price from your pics. Hey, what can they say, you're shopping!)

    Henry

  12. #27
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    Apr 2007
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    Just a quick update, it will be heading to the frame shop soon. Need to find a way to get it there, if I knew what I know now, I would just drove it last year when, the police were looking the other way.

    Thanks.

  13. #28
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    Default Well...

    Quote Originally Posted by SStampede View Post
    Just a quick update, it will be heading to the frame shop soon. Need to find a way to get it there, if I knew what I know now, I would just drove it last year when, the police were looking the other way.

    Thanks.
    Good to hear. How far away you need to go? You got lights if you do drive it there? Assuming it runs safely.

    Now, think of someone with a DEALER plate willing to drive the car to the shop for you. Most of us have a buddy or friend who know another buddy or friend, OR call AAA.

    Henry

  14. #29
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    I used a friends trailer, should be starting on it next week.

    Thanks.

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