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Thread: Picklex and epoxy primer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    17

    Default Picklex and epoxy primer

    I've heard that one shouldn't use any type of acid product under epoxy primer. Searching here, it sounds like some epoxy products can safely be used over Picklex.

    Can someone offer some recommendations on which epoxy primers are safe to use over Picklex? Specific brand and product names would be helpful (then I can see if I can get them).

    Which epoxy primers are easy to sand?

    If the "best" epoxy primers aren't compatible with Picklex, how do you remove it? Does Picklex have to be rinsed off?

    Why does an epoxy that contains acid be incompatible with Picklex? Intuitively, I would think the opposite would be true, that it would be more compatible.

    Does Picklex work on surface rust only? Or will it "neutralize" rusty pits in metal?
    Last edited by ScotY; 09-12-2008 at 06:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    553

    Red face

    I am basically at the same place you are, just now repairing rust and where it can't be repaired I am blasting and treating with picklex.

    It is my understanding that Epoxy primers that do not include any etching properties will work well over picklex treated areas. You just need to make sure the picklex is fully cured then scuff thoroughly before priming.

    I bought some PPG DP50LF 2 part epoxy primer based on some posts on this site where people have stated they have had success with applying over picklex treated areas.

    This post contains a very thorough process documented by Steve g, and others agreed and supported it. It's the 6th post in the thread.

    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...ight=ZR+Filler

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    60

    Default

    Dude :

    This question has been answered many times here - most people when they become a member of a forum take the time to read everything they can and then ask questions o0n what they haven't quite understood.

    Since you wish to be spoon-fed - HOK and SPI epoxy primers cannot be used over PickleX...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks for the warm welcome. Guess that blows my theory that people from the South are friendly. I am not the most talented when it comes to searching, but I did and didn't find all the answers I was looking for.

    I was wanting to know which epoxies are compatible with Picklex, verified by user experiences, not just which ones are not. Also was hoping someone would comment on which of these are easiest to sand. And last, I was looking to find out how to neutralize/remove Picklex in the event you had to use an incompatible paint over it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brad-Man
    Dude :

    This question has been answered many times here - most people when they become a member of a forum take the time to read everything they can and then ask questions o0n what they haven't quite understood.

    Since you wish to be spoon-fed - HOK and SPI epoxy primers cannot be used over PickleX...
    If you think a post is not worth your time then you shouldn't answer it. Someone with a little more time would be less confrontational.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ScotY
    Thanks for the warm welcome. Guess that blows my theory that people from the South are friendly. I am not the most talented when it comes to searching, but I did and didn't find all the answers I was looking for.

    I was wanting to know which epoxies are compatible with Picklex, verified by user experiences, not just which ones are not. Also was hoping someone would comment on which of these are easiest to sand. And last, I was looking to find out how to neutralize/remove Picklex in the event you had to use an incompatible paint over it.
    We've used Glasurit, RM, DuPont and PPG with excellent results.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    115

    Default

    I have also used Kirker's epoxy primer over picklex many times, with positive results.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    320

    Default

    I've used PPG shopline epoxy over picklex with no problems.

    One note though, you mention which epoxy is easy to sand....NONE. They will gum up your sandpaper and are hard to get smooth by their very nature.

    The process I'm using:

    epoxy primer
    body work/bondo
    2k primer
    thinned epoxy as sealer
    paint

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    1,707

    Default There are sandable epoxies...

    House of Kolor and Valspar's DTM2000 series of primers are direct to metal epoxy surfacers that sand very well. Many companies now have those direct to metal surfacers, they are much easier to use than the old two step expoxy/urethane surfacer...

    But with valspar and HOK...Picklex is a definite no no....I know, I had to strip a 68 firebird back down to bare metal after the epoxy was flaking off the metal...The customer had treated the car with picklex then shot KP2CF on it....big mistake...I re-primed the car on my ticket....I had to get it down to bare metal again...that was a bummer...

    I never had problems with PPG's epoxies though...but when I switched to Valspar and HOK...bang...so no more picklex in this shop except for etching metal stuff I paint with enamel...
    My 2 cents worth...
    Serge

  10. #10

    Default

    The Kirker epoxy is easy to sand and really doesn't gum up when sanding after a day or two. I'm not sure if means its not as good as some of the other epoxies. I'm still in the learning and practice stages of spraying so the lower cost makes it good for what I'm working on.

  11. #11

    Default Hybrid epoxy

    I have used this on the project that I have been working on. I applied pickless under it and it seems to hold fine. Is an epoxy primer that's used as a metal prep,build and sealer depending on how you mix it. It sands pretty well and it saves time. check out this link is kind of hard to explain. Hope this helps
    http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/5425_x2k.html

  12. #12

    Default Epoxy/pickless

    I have sprayed those panels like 12 months ago (I hate to admit that) I actually sanded the build and re-sprayed, I blocked the primer and held on great, sanded very well. I would probably not use pickless again unless the panel was very pitted or had very visible rust. Another thing to consider is if the panel was left with no paint for a while like I made the mistake of doing (rookie) I would just bring down to metal and just spray this product directly right away. I think is a bit of an over kill to apply pickless and epoxy just my personal opinion.Hope this helps

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    44,317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chivi
    I have sprayed those panels like 12 months ago (I hate to admit that) I actually sanded the build and re-sprayed, I blocked the primer and held on great, sanded very well. I would probably not use pickless again unless the panel was very pitted or had very visible rust. Another thing to consider is if the panel was left with no paint for a while like I made the mistake of doing (rookie) I would just bring down to metal and just spray this product directly right away. I think is a bit of an over kill to apply pickless and epoxy just my personal opinion.Hope this helps
    Actually Picklex and epoxy go great together, it's when the epoxy has an acid etch mixed in that it reacts poorly with the Picklex. It's quite obvious a problem exists because the primer will break back badly if sanded or you could apply tape to the dry primer to see if if pulls off. Most of the better epoxy primers don't use acid to help them stick to the surface because it's not needed.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    13,722

    Default

    I am a fan of the Picklex and other phosphoric acid products because they can remove microscopic rust that you can't see. Never had a problem using PPG DP epoxy over it.

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