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The only part of the cup I clean is the bottom threaded connection.
the Zip-Lock bag protects the rest.
Those liners and lids are to expensive for me :D

I like this much better,
cheaper, easier and cleaner.
and you can use store bought Zip-Lock quart freezer bags with them.
...

I remember back in the 1970's when I used lacquer for everything,
I repaired several cars that I had worked on in the past only to find
rust under that lacquer primer. that's how I learned to never...

Lacquer primer is the worst primer to put over any bare metal, it
is not made for bare metal, it soaks up moisture like a sponge
and does not adhere very well.

I wouldn't cover any new primer with plastic.

Yes, that's another advantage of epoxy, it has a long recoat window,
some as many as 7 days.
And it lays real smooth when reduced to a sealer coat.
Check your brand tech. sheet for recommended...

You need to put something over bare spots before base.
I recommend a thinned down epoxy primer as a sealer,
a light coat of that and you can paint right over it in an hour or less.

I always add more than recommended for clear, you just have to
let it flash a lot longer between coats to fight die-back.
Works for me.

I have always waited longer extended times for my clear to flash and never had your problem.
Especially at that low temperature.
I think you need to double check your mix ratios and your...

I don't sand outside corners at all and I always have the buffer
spinning away from the edge, not against it.
If I do have to sand a edge or body line I only use a 3000 grit
foam Abralon disc and...

The problem I've had with some of the single stage custom
colors with a lot of metallic in it is you can't color sand without
sanding the metallic and changing the look of it, I ended up
with...

I have found that my "low CFM" guns take about the same amount of
air to paint something as my higher CFM guns because they take twice as many passes.
It kind of balances out, the higher CFM guns...

I love the Sagola, It's my favorite gun.

It's not universal if it can only be used with lacquer.
Look up the tech sheet if you aren't sure.
My universal retarder can be used with any enamel or urethanes.

I used a Sherwin Williams reducer years ago that was rated "desert" temp.
It was just like what I use now, a 50/50 slow reducer and retarder mix.

I can even cut the reducer back more when I use...

I think you'll like spraying it from your gun better, it
sprays real nice full strength, doesn't need any reducer, so any you don't
use can be emptied back in the can.

You can mix it with the paint.
It mixes 1:3 for basecoat and 1:4 for clearcoat

http://kleanstripauto.com/resources/product-resources/Bulldog_System_Tech_Data_Sheet_Rev030321.pdf

Len:
Check out the Bulldog description you posted, it
says "makes paint flexable"
It's a great product for blending panels as a surface prep
and adhesion. I love this product.

Bulldog is a flex additive.

I like to use retarder on the last coat for things like
door jambs and hard to reach areas, I can slow it down way farther
than the slowest reducer and not have the paint as thin when using
more...

I would wet sand them with 320 to 220 and then apply Bulldog adhesion promoter
when thoroughly dry.
Bulldog can be used over any plastic or paint so why not use it to be sure,
then prime with a...

I think 25 is a little low on your PSI, not enough to be your
problem but isn't the gun suppose to have 30 PSI.

If I had to guess I would say it's a bent needle.
Try rolling it on a flat surface to see if it's true.

Wow, sounds like you did everything I can think of.
Try spraying a test pattern on paper then rotate your air cap 180 degrees.
If the heavy side changes from top to bottom you'll know it's in the...

If you use any body filler type products to fill it you would then
need to seal it against the weather. Fillers will fail if they get wet.

FYI:

Here's a 3M chart

I suggest using a sanding paste with the scuff pad.
It really helps.

That is so true.

Was the second coat done with the same first batch of mixed primer?
(2K primers can start setting fast so if you wait to long it can get thicker)

I usually plan on 1 ounce mixed primer to 1 sq. ft of panel.
That usually gives my 2 good coats per sq ft. of panel.
On odd shaped things like bumpers with a lot of openings
and such, plan on a...

Talk to car lots and dealerships in your area,
most have someone that comes around and touches up
the small chips for them without spraying.
I've seen some do a remarkable job.

You would be better off to buy some pre-packaged touch up paint made
for your vehicle, there are plenty of suppliers on line, and you can also get it at the dealership.
It will come in a small...

I have noticed a little die back on my repairs only on covered primer areas.
I know the cool weather is at play and need to allow longer curing times for the primed areas but
was wondering if using...

Some epoxy primers have a recoat window as long as 7 days.

Why not just use wood filler.
That's what it's for.

I would use a spot putty if all you're filling is saw marks or chipping on the ends.
But regular wood filler is what most use.

Dawn is all you need.
I always dry with a clean towel after washing,
water does leave residues behind, some places
in this country are worse than others.

Sounds like not enough hardener,
how long did it take to set up hard?

I agree, I have a lot of air sanders that work well but for stripping a large area
I'll grab my electric buffer first and it works best on slower speeds.

If I want to use an air sander, I have...

Hand sanding is always better, but for a machine, you're better off with a random orbital,
it's less aggressive, and at a slower speed they work pretty good.
I use an electric one and dry sand with...

If you want to see how it will look with clear, just cover it with water
or wax and grease remover.

If everything is nice and flat, there's no reason for 2K over it.
Epoxy will cover the 180 with a couple of coats but I'd recommend
sanding the 180 scratches out with 220 to 320 then priming it...

I can tell a big difference in primer sanded at 48 hrs old compared to 24 or less.
But it usually takes a full summer for it to show and
the average person doesn't notice it, just a very slight...

I looked up that primer, the "501" series states it's a one component primer.
Is that the one you're using?
If it's 0ne component it can't be an epoxy.
It's made for painting bridges.
...

I completely understand that!
I'm the same way and my wife never understands why, I guess
I'm just OCD.

The one thing that has helped me the most is using a good set of arch supports.
I got mine from "The Good Feet Store", expensive but worth it.
It took away my back pain and foot pain

Maybe a "PDR" guy could smooth that out for you.
Some make house calls and are reasonable.
That looks really nice!

That Dolphin glaze is the best spot putty I've ever used.
I love that stuff, and the pouch it comes in really keeps it from drying out like
the other brands do.

I just fill them with a good spot putty.

It will adhere to that just fine, as long as it's absolutely clean before paint.
You need to stay with a fine grit if the color is a metallic.
If your color is not a metallic I would recommend a...