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  1. Remember that you are not trying to get a shine...

    Remember that you are not trying to get a shine with the base. Just coverage, is the goal. That way you won't be too worried about getting it tooo wet . which can cause metallic problems.
  2. And just as another option . . there are some 2...

    And just as another option . . there are some 2 stage paint of there today that look like Candoes . .have the three stage look. But being a true two stage, they spray like any other BC/CC.
  3. I have sprayed candy, but never to the extent of...

    I have sprayed candy, but never to the extent of what you are doing here. Here's what I would do. I would paint as much of the truck at the same time, as I could. That way you can walk the candy...
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    Finex 3000 cup

    I like to buy spray guns sometimes, just for fun :) I bought a FX3000 and damn I like the little gun. But I wish I could have a larger cup than a 20 oz. Has anyone found a cup that will work? or...
  5. I did a two tone Econoline pickup a few months...

    I did a two tone Econoline pickup a few months ago. Matter of fact, with the white stripe he wanted between the two colors, it was really a three color job. I sprayed the white first. Then a taped...
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    Also, if all you are removing is peel, I would...

    Also, if all you are removing is peel, I would rather start with 1000.
  7. You'll spend more money in paper and sanding...

    You'll spend more money in paper and sanding time, than just using a wool buff. I would never even consider this myself. 5000 ?? Never
  8. So Steve, you satisfied now?? :)

    So Steve, you satisfied now?? :)
  9. Thread: Guide coat

    by PetesPonies
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    I would think the thing you need to consider is...

    I would think the thing you need to consider is if there will be some ghost circles and lines around where you spot primed. If you reprime everything and do a full block sanding, you can eliminate...
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    Can't speak for all the epoxies, but I use...

    Can't speak for all the epoxies, but I use Kirker. Its very sandable, thus cures more than some of them out there. I do a lot of epoxy wet-on-wet application and can't say I notice a problem with it.
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    I would have to cut that area out and welding in...

    I would have to cut that area out and welding in new metal. You don't need a quarter to do this. You should be able to make a patch with sheet stock. You could even go to a local pick and pull and...
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    I can't get to everyone and POR has such a...

    I can't get to everyone and POR has such a following. Do not use POR. It is a great topcoat, but not for what you used it for, even though they say so. Trust me. You want to use Master Series as the...
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    No problem. I just did a very pitted roof on a...

    No problem. I just did a very pitted roof on a '68 Cougar. What I did was remove as much as possible with mechanical means. I then treated with phosphoric acid. This removed much more. But this roof...
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    Listen , I can't make you use what I use. But I...

    Listen , I can't make you use what I use. But I can offere some expert advise. No one has ever said that POR doesn't get hard. That isn;'t the issue, but adhesion is. I have used most of the products...
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    88GT, messes left with Surefinish are very easy...

    88GT, messes left with Surefinish are very easy to clean up as it doesn't harden in crevises like other products. So I find it very easy to clean up. I also buff at low speeds, so I don't feel as if...
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    I have not used it under filler . . but I can...

    I have not used it under filler . . but I can tell your that filler over Master Series works fantastic and have done it maybe 500 times !! I would rather see you use Master Series. IMO a much better...
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    Look into Master Series as a product to use. I...

    Look into Master Series as a product to use. I have been using it for many years now and am happy with its performance. It is not the same as POR . although it is a moisture cured product.
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    I know I waste a lot of material when I buff. I...

    I know I waste a lot of material when I buff. I even try to use as little as possible . . but alas waste. However, I am not complaining as I find the Surefinish to do such a good job that I don't...
  19. I would say yes, treat all rust before welding....

    I would say yes, treat all rust before welding. Then what I do is coat both sides of the weld after grinding with Master Series. I do this before filler if filler is going to be applied. This way the...
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    IMO it is not a good idea to rinse the PA...

    IMO it is not a good idea to rinse the PA afterwards. But you must make sure you do not allow it to dry, remove it wet with paper towels. I talked to a DuPont tech about this. On older bottles they...
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    Its the perfect place for moisture to be trapped....

    Its the perfect place for moisture to be trapped. That is how the rust begins. When places cab dry out, rust is usually not a problem. I assume you are talking about a structural support being in the...
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    Whatever you want to do to the underside, you...

    Whatever you want to do to the underside, you should scuff the epoxy. I wouldn't cover in ZR, but thats another story.
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    Kirker sands and builds wonderfully. If you body...

    Kirker sands and builds wonderfully. If you body work is good, the Kirker will be all you need. If you really need a lot of build, then another primer may be needed. But if you did the body well,...
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    Showcar . . as Len says . . its a totally...

    Showcar . . as Len says . . its a totally different material. It continues to work and work finer as it goes. You will need no glaze or swirl remover. It really is that good. I don't care if you are...
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    Seriously, use the Surefinish available here and...

    Seriously, use the Surefinish available here and you will be using only one material and you will not have tiny scratches. You can't believe how much easier it is to buff with Surefinish until you...
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    The epoxy I use is a 1:1 mix. I use a lot because...

    The epoxy I use is a 1:1 mix. I use a lot because I use it for blocking too. In other words, the entire priming stage is usually done in epoxy by myself. There are times I stray from that, but that...
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    probably not enough pressure and not staying long...

    probably not enough pressure and not staying long enough. But as a rpior 3M user myself . . you should give it up :) The compound Len sells here is so much better. I used to get a great shine with...
  28. I run my restoration business with a compressor I...

    I run my restoration business with a compressor I bought at Lowes. It runs everything I use and it was well under a grand $$.
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    did you use a cured primed? If so, you may have...

    did you use a cured primed? If so, you may have to just sand down to that. If you used a lacquer based primer, it probably should come off too. The 180 wet will work. I use between 120 and 220 wet to...
  30. Len, you can't compare MS to POR. They are not...

    Len, you can't compare MS to POR. They are not the same. It is a moisture cured urethane, but it is intened to be used right over rusty or less than perfect metal. But it can be sprayed over perfect...
  31. a rust paint that can be used as a base with...

    a rust paint that can be used as a base with automotive materials is Master Series. It is a primer. I have used it many times in this way. Two coats of MS, then allowing enough dry time until it is...
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    I use the cheapest floor paint I can find. I have...

    I use the cheapest floor paint I can find. I have never had a lifting problem. My floor has a rough texture, which helps. Its easier to repaint the floor once or twice a year when you are going to...
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    if there are no pits, just the black marks, I...

    if there are no pits, just the black marks, I would treat with phosphoric acid. Wipe it on and remove it before it has a chance to dry. Use dry paper towels to remove it. Then cover with epoxy...
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    good move. Epoxy is a great primer, but it is...

    good move. Epoxy is a great primer, but it is agressive and on none hardened materials, it will usually lift it.
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    its been done about a million times, good enough...

    its been done about a million times, good enough for you ? :o)
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    and probably did not properly sand/scuff the new...

    and probably did not properly sand/scuff the new bumper cover...hense the paint coming off. Don't you love it?
  37. and most HVLP guns are slower painting than a...

    and most HVLP guns are slower painting than a conventional gun. That means you must be a lot closer to the panel and move slower.
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    well it will certainly do that :o) !!!!

    well it will certainly do that :o) !!!!
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    if you broke the a-pillar..I would put this on a...

    if you broke the a-pillar..I would put this on a frame machine to check everything out.
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    if you are a capable person..charge time and...

    if you are a capable person..charge time and materials.
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    along with what has been said about the ability...

    along with what has been said about the ability to buff metallic SS paint..if it is acrylic enamel..it could be 2-4 weeks before you could buff it. If it is urethane, a couple days may be needed. If...
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    yeah...you would be best to return it and get...

    yeah...you would be best to return it and get something better. There are some epoxies available that will build and sand well enough. They don't contain isos as do urethane primers, thus they are...
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    that area would need a piece of sheetmetal rolled...

    that area would need a piece of sheetmetal rolled into the same radius. You could make a pattern with cardboard, take it to a sheetmetal shop and have them slip roll some steel to use as a patch....
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    I do painting over Master Series primer all the...

    I do painting over Master Series primer all the time. It is a moisture cured material, but it s a primer. It is perfect for your situation and I have used it that was literally over a hundred times....
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    I would have to agree. I have painted with it...

    I would have to agree. I have painted with it raining outside..and as long as you aren't spraying lacquer, never a problem.
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    you will have a much more permanent repair if you...

    you will have a much more permanent repair if you weld it solid. Basically, just keep doing small tacks all around until it is solid. You will have a lot less chance of warping the metal if you move...
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    just buy the flattener and add as you like.

    just buy the flattener and add as you like.
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    that was my question/suggestion too....how far...

    that was my question/suggestion too....how far are you away from the car when spraying?
  49. so you have a MIG welder and experience with it?

    so you have a MIG welder and experience with it?
  50. the true hard facts are that many people do it...

    the true hard facts are that many people do it all wrong. So...don't get your ideas from watching other people, ESPECIALLY on TV. If it has isos, you should be wearing a fresh air breathing setup....
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