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What are you cleaning? The gun? If so look at the gun cleaning video at the top of the General Discussion forum. Never leave any primer or paint in the gun, clean it right after you spray.

Most adhesion promoters work best when applied in two light coats. Spray the first coat, allow it to flash and apply the second and allow it to flash then apply your base color. No sealer required.

Yes you could have damaged some soft parts but I don't think they would have changed the spray pattern. I would think that the pattern was changed by damage to the fluid tip or needle. Look closely...

A couple of potential problems on ANY spray gun....

1. NEVER soak the gun body for more than a minute or two. While soaking won't hurt the metal parts it can cause the soft parts to permanently...

Depending on the depth of the scratch you can either block sand it with some fine sandpaper or sand and spray a filler primer then block sand. If it's a deep scratch you could even use a small/fine...

If the edge lifts it probably won't be caused by the hardener, it's usually caused by the solvent (reducer) in the paint. We rarely spray enamel/urethane without hardener. We normally add a low...

I've only seen a humidity problems when a fast reducer is used, the compressor is smaller than required and/or filtration is poor.

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The reason you can see those imperfections is because of the light being reflected and my guess is that there may be a lot more imperfections in other areas.

I think Fusor was the first to put spacing in the mix and if you only need a small amount the Fusor Caulk Gun Conversion Kit may be a low cost option.

No it's the Eastwood machine. We are in the business of restoring vehicles so we do things like this as quickly and as good as possible. If I was doing this as a hobby I might not be as...

My helper has started using one and he seems to like it but he needs to use our Makita buffer/sander with 80 grit disks to do a lot of the car where the surface is curved. I've purchased one 40 grit...

Because a hardener was not used the chance of a bad reaction is possible. When blending over a hardened paint I would normally recommend applying the paint then over-reducing the paint to blend the...

No need to strip the old paint unless it's peeling or cracking, just scuff it with some 600 or finer then paint.

If the work has been kept warm you may be able to sand now but then wet sanding prior to spraying would not be as good as dry sanding. I'd probably dry sand with some 800 or finer then allow it to...

If there is NO HARDENER added then you should wait the recommended amount of time before sanding. Even after waiting non-hardened enamel stays somewhat soft and should be wet sanded using 1500 grit...

I've done several horse trailers inside and out. As far as the rust goes I treat it just like car rust, grind it off, treat it with Picklex 20 then fill, prime and paint. Just be sure that you SEAL...

If you can't find it locally you can order it from our store linked on the picture below.



http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/tn3m6930.jpg

I've never used anything but the 3M aluminum tape so I don't know how other products will work.

If your repair is in a place where moisture can get to the back of the repair (that's usually what...

If possible you'll want to have the area low by tapping it down then install the foil tape then cut the tape so that the edges are within the low area. I normally press the edges of the tape down...

We've been spraying primer with this gun and it works quite well. There is only four in stock so get one or two while you can.

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The longest lasting repair would be to weld in a patch then seal it from behind but if you can't get behind it then I'd probably opt for aluminum tape and fiberglass. If done properly it could last...