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you need to do a "let down panel" you need to see how many coats of the mid coat you need to match the car.

here is a link to a explanation, I'm not patient enough to type it all out. ...

Give it the time it takes !

you are a smart fella

while no they are definitely not convenient they are a great tool, painters to have to be careful not to over reduce cold paint when using VCups

yes, but not often, I'm lucky enough to have a temperature controlled environment. heating and cooling both inside and outside the booth

why are you asking ? what are you spraying ?

Something...

Ron is correct, FLNA "fleet North America" is indeed a Akzo Nobel code

Sorry I did not get back to you any further,

for people reading: we facetimed, the gun sprayed very heavy up top, i had him turn hid air cap a 180 and still heavy up top, we cleaned the gun...

Shoot me a text message, 720 252 9292

2021 is my clear of choice,

I would put 1 coat, wait appropriate flash time,

second coat followed by a drop coat.

cut with 800 then 3 more coats,

easier to cut for buffing, your edges...

I dont got a bouncer but we do wheel a little

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Krawl America
Crawl 5280
Revkit

check some of those out, it is jeep based but some awesome crawling and films from my friends

Radiator, electronics, etc are mounted over there,

whatever works for you :thumb:

I would not recommend using paper on top of the spreader without first shaping it either flat or a nice round over with some sand paper. spreaders are not symmetrical up top and leave a uneven groove...

He is correct,

Temperature, Reducer selection, tip size, viscosity, high flow fittings, etc etc will all effect what you need to do on your end.

Cosmichrome, paint is Global basecoat with D8115 matte clear over the silver base and black base.

here is a sign for USPS, spray chrome and a custom Kandy I made, then matte clear

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this is a dash i did for a customer, 600 bucks, spray chrome and paint.

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yes that looks like the correct parts

I partly agree, but the OP is not the only one reading this thread, so someone reading may find the answer he is looking for, that's what people come here for.

it can be both correct.

die back is usually priming over to rough a grit, or not enough primer build or not long enough cure time,

FDGH, FBC, FBCH ?

I would not recommend them on flat panels, i have 1 1/2 tool carts full of blocks. plexi blocks (like linier blocking but i made myself) Durablock composite, 1" X 3" aluminum blocks some with Velcro,...

correct, a table saw, you can make the cuts closer together in the middle then spread them a little further apart as you go to the ends, this will will help with not having a "hard spot" in the...

Then make them unstiff

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some good valid points in there, I'm a lazy when it comes to typing, i have a full line of PPG Delfleet primers, Evercoat, Valspar, Debeers, ive done so much testing on foams and sign foams on these...

this particular foam is HDU sign foam, not EPS Foam,

G2 poly, block and fill what needs filled, all seems done with a pyramid patch and glass cloth, poly again, block, 2k prime sand and paint. a...

all primers and all paint shrinks buddy, depending on solids content will let you know how much it will shrink. also how deep of a scratch you're going over.

if you prime over deep scratches and...

i have not used the primer, i have used the optex glaze,

i use a lot of G2 blocked out and followed by DeBeer 8-145 primer.

that not even close to the facts, dependent on mil thickness, ambient temp, metal temp, hardener used,

if you leave that primer over night at 80 degrees primed over 220 you will probably not see...

how much a primer shrinks is not dependent on "better" or "price" it is all about solids content and what size grit you are priming over.

that is correct, some primers self heal and will need resanded if sit to long, others cant even go in the sun for a few hours without breaking down, follow the tech sheet but it is always good...

I can help ya ! I use Matthews SP nuance, are you painting laser cut acrylic ? or CNC ? are they letters or full sheets ? I'm not on this forum much anymore feel free to email me at...

Yes, Catalyze your base 5%, you can use the hardener you will use in your clear if you like.

The idea of catalyzing basecoat is like this

Catalyzed urethane sealer
Catalyzed basecoat = doing...

yes you should be concerned about breathing in any kind of dust...

i would wear one of these

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mixing in single stage black 50/50 with clear and going over the SAME black is not going to do anything visible to your eye...

if he used basecoat it may have been HoK

because it is TV, scripted, that 50/50 mix does nothing. can go to just straight clear after SS

if there is question as to if there is enough mils, a mil gauge would help in the future

Air Gunsa 3.0 for poly

Surprised nobody is asking questions like,

are you taping over sprayed basecoat ? you will want to scuff inside the stripe if you are out of your window

do you plan to scuff after taping ? some...

a half tack coat followed by a wet coat will help, unfortunately that is pretty common on sharp edges.

are you using a sealer prior to basecoat ? alot of paint lines require sealer under black basecoat for this reason. its usually not a option on black.

This method works, but it works better if you tape each end of the blade and no tape on car,

the best method is a shark blade
...

Any automotive clear will go over gold leaf, use good sizing and if you want swirls like Len speaks of velvet works nice.

Use a graphite stick and do a rub over your tape to transfer, not a sharpie

im also at the assumption it attacked the foam

is that made out of EPS foam ?

"Recoat" means to apply another coat of the same product

"top Coat" means to apply basecoat or single stage or another product over it.

the tech sheet does not say its ok to top coat for up to...

if i was you i would lightly scuff the whole thing with a red scotch brite and recoat, add a little slower reducer to avoid getting that dry spray making it feel like sand.

the tech sheet gives a...

320 is to rough for base, hit it with some 600 and shoot base as long as you are in your window. a recoat window and top coat window are different.

Maybe this will help, No you should not paint over mil scale. some guys do, but it can lead to failure.

easily removed with Muriatic acid then neutralize,
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