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that's just style. he's a detailing guy with a ton of throughput. he does what's currently fashionable, quick, and has a lot of eye candy. despite what he says, body shops are still using rotary...

i'd agree with that. there's definitely a point of diminishing return if you keep adding thinner.

i find the tech people will deviate from the tds more often than not. they know their product and what to expect in the field. i find with enamel (and modified enamel), faster thinners dull the...

what the rep recommended is pretty standard for people trying to get that perfectly flat, show car finish. but you're in a nice downdraft booth, presumably know what you're doing, flow coating might...

i've not used that gun, but it gets good reviews. looks like it runs at lower pressure than most that i've used. don't be afraid to play with that pressure setting to get the paint to lay out how you...

at this point i'd be hesitant to add hardener. i'd also go with the least amount of thinner required to get a smooth finish. 5-10% maybe, preferably 5%. i usually use a 1.4 nozzle for enamel, and...

base/clear certainly has it's merits. like phil says, with metallics it's almost mandatory. i've done plenty of ss metallic paint jobs, but i wouldn't recommend it for someone that isn't experienced....

i have a mini twin tube dispenser that the fusor cartridges fit in. same dispenser maybe?

good post, very good information. i haven't done much with bonding adhesive, but i have something coming up that i'm going to use it on.

i do that regularly. it takes me ages to do an entire vehicle so i go in sections just like you. i like to epoxy over the metalwork and apply filler right away. then seal over the filler with more...

wow, troubling to hear he's having health issues. hope he has a full and speedy recovery.

that's just the maximum rpm they're rated for. you can run them slower if you have a variable speed. the rather open weave of the abrasive doesn't make as much heat as it has lots of air movement....

i like hook and loop. you can take them off and on as many times as you want. i like to save ones that are fairly worn but still have a little cut left in them. i'll use them to take the skin off...

totally agree with that assessment. i've used them in desperation at times, but i like 80 grit on a rotary for the bulk of my stripping. fast and economical.

sure looks like a measuring jig to me. they aren't strong enough to do any work. it looks like a double round bar or tube fits into the slots and the little catch locks it on place. maybe holds a...

good deal, if the paint was going to wrinkle, it would have done so by morning. i think you're out of the woods now.:thumb:

i can't remember if you were using single stage or not. a lot of folks use single in the jambs even if they're using base/clear on the outside. you can mask off the entire car except for the jambs...

i reduce to viscosity, not really a measurement. i can tell, when i move the paint stick through the mixed paint, it moves a certain way. there's a little wiggle to it. i imagine it's less than 10%,...

clean and wipe with ppg dx330 wax and grease remover.
cross your fingers, if it starts lifting or wrinkling, just stop. it will only get worse.

i mentioned doing an adhesion test. this is a good way to gauge how sound the old paint is. you'll do a crosshatch pattern with a razor blade, (like 5-6-mm crosshatch) lay tape on it and quickly pull...

len is spot on regarding the possibility of wrinkling. when i shoot equipment paint i will either, shoot it all within a couple of days, or make sure i let it sit for a couple of weeks before doing...

i would assume it's probable some cheap acrylic enamel, or maybe even just some equipment enamel on that. either one will work ok, but if i used equipment paint i'd add hardener to it so it lasts...

i bet the 3m tape has better adhesive than the typical duct sealing foil tape. if i was going that route, i think i'd shoot some (gasp) flex-seal in behind the inner structure to help seal any pin...

i do it all the time. i wrap self adhesive paper around the skinny edge to get into tight areas, or the fat edge if i need a little more heft. you can take advantage of the radiused side of the fat...

i thought it was a little curious too, that's why i mentioned it. i've also heard those guns (sata in particular) can be real hosers though, best suited for high production work.
i find the sagola...

when there's rust holes and inner structure preventing you from getting access to the other side, it's almost impossible to just weld up from the outside. the rust behind there will be a lot worse...

i guess i should have been more clear when i said full fan. i do turn in the screw till it just clips the ends. doesn't take much turning to do that. i've always done that with all my guns as the...

that's a great solution. i usually have the fusor on hand, that stuff is amazing. i've been using it to seal small cracks and defects on the boat and it outperforms any of the "marine" products out...

ok, good to know. almost every method of stripping paint produces heat, but knowing how much is a good thing so you don't warp a panel. i'd say, almost burning a hand, is too much heat. i like the...

i wish people would stop posting video of their gun settings. all it does is confuse people that are less experienced. sure, i could throttle my gun back and still get a good finish, but it's because...

how much heat does it put into the panel when you're using it?

the biggest problem is that the emblem is hollow so there's not much surface area to use for adhesive. i might think about filling the voids on a few of the letters, (first. middle and last) so that...

i was looking at that picture filling the tank through the bed floor. brought back memories, that's exactly how my '56 f-100 was set up. man i miss that truck...

i haven't used it for that purpose before, (exterior) but i would think that anywhere you used the folded tape trick the transition tape would be perfect. it's awesome for doing jambs, so much faster...

that paint is a "modified alkyd enamel". essentially it's just a straight enamel with an acrylic component. i'd classify it as equipment enamel. i've shot tons of that kind of paint over the years on...

nice truck! i love the stepside versions of that. do we understand that you're more concerned about rustproofing the underside and repairing the fenders than painting the whole thing?
it looks...

good on you for getting it out for a spin. where i'm at it's rarely dry enough in the winter-ish months for me to feel like getting my cars out. (lame i know)
you truck is looking good, i think i'd...

car manufacturers were always balancing strength and weight when it came to frames and panels. i've even seen identical factory panels made from different gauge metal for special versions of the same...

not sure how you paint something where you don't have a data sheet on it. the data sheet (tds) gives all the parameters that the coating has been tested and approved for application. i might have...

Certainly not ideal conditions. The humidity is not the biggest factor. I can't remember if you mentioned the temperature or not.
My thinking would be that if you don't get dew on it in the morning...

buddy you got that right. i wish everyone would just settle down. it's tough enough to make a living right?

so glad corey got the paint figured out for this project, i am hoping he'll share some...

ok, sounds like you have it figured out. i have known people to use polyester fillers above the waterline, but i don't do it. too much chance of failure for me to chance it. you have the right...

it's never a good idea to shoot topcoat directly over fillers. they have different absorption characteristics and will show through. i haven't used the epoxy undercoat you're using so can't advise on...

i buy quite a few different things from fibreglast. vacuum bagging supplies, release agent, resins and cloth. it's not the cheapest, but the quality is good. you know as well as i do that quality...

i think it depends on the use of the boat to an extent. there's a ton of fairing compounds to choose from, but are the areas going to be under water? is it a trailer boat and hauled out after each...

another milestone marten, way to go. it'll be good to put a few miles on it to see if there's some fine tuning to do before you get ready to paint. i use the summer to make my winter hit list of car...

don't be hard on the boy, when it's all done and over with you'll appreciate the benefits of the better quality paint.

there you go! looking like the home stretch now, huge improvement!

you might want to speed up the cure on the area that needs sanding. an infrared light, or similar will heat and cure that area without speeding up the rest of the car. then you can just sand the...

do this. small repair sections are easier to fit and handle. you can use a clamp through the hole to tighten up the mating surfaces that way. sure it's more welding, but not that much.
whatever you...