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Thread: Taiwan made fenders

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    115

    Default Taiwan made fenders

    OK, I stooped to a new low and ordered a pair of 'replacement' brand fenders, made in good old taiwan. 1988 caprice classic. I have to say, the fit is good, gauge was thick enough too...but alas, on to my question...

    They came in a glossy black, should I scuff and shoot epoxy primer before I mount them and high build primer the whole car for paint??
    Or, do I need to take it to bare metal and then epoxy prime?

    Basically, I read somewhere that this black coating on reproduction panels, especially from overseas, isnt rust protection...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Shelbyville, KY
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vannmann
    OK, I stooped to a new low and ordered a pair of 'replacement' brand fenders, made in good old taiwan. 1988 caprice classic. I have to say, the fit is good, gauge was thick enough too...but alas, on to my question...

    They came in a glossy black, should I scuff and shoot epoxy primer before I mount them and high build primer the whole car for paint??
    Or, do I need to take it to bare metal and then epoxy prime?

    Basically, I read somewhere that this black coating on reproduction panels, especially from overseas, isnt rust protection...
    If you can wipe it off with laq. thinner then get rid of all it and start over.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    A different state every year
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    Default

    Its called E-coat its actually good stuff if it isnt low grade.. take some thinner on a paper towel and wipe it down if it comes off on the towel then it needs to be removed but if it doesnt you could just scuff and shoot

    Alot of aftermarket parts are overseas, was yours CAPA certified?


    Thanks,
    Ryan

    "Save the cheap paint for the power-wheels"

    Komplete Kustoms

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Default

    I dont know about CAPA certified but the boxes and fenders are stamped with labels saying "ISO 9001" certified. Any idea what that means?

  5. #5
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    Jul 2007
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    Woodridge, IL
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    Here is a link on ISO certification
    http://www.the9000store.com/Intro-to-ISO-9001.aspx

    Most big corporations are ISO certified. The department I work in is.

  6. #6
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    Feb 2007
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    Louisville,KY.
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    Default

    Like they said, if it's not lacquer, you can just scuff and paint.
    I usually scuff and epoxy prime it first only because it's a good sealer
    and I can tint my primer to be a better color for the paint.
    And epoxy will promote better adhesion, it's a better job that way but
    probably is overkill.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Default

    In all honesty...no insult intented..but for that car..even it was laquer..it would still be fine to just scuff them with a red scuff pad and paint.
    If it was a new bmw or something i'd say take the time to wipe it off with laquer thinner and put your own epoxy primer....
    but for that car i dont think it would matter either way. It will hold up.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    5

    Default

    I just got a OEM GM box side skin and it too has the shiny black primer.

    Is it standard practice to leave the black primer unpainted on the inside of the wheel wells? or do I need more rust protection?

  9. #9
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    Feb 2007
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    115

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    Pane2k,
    believe it or not the 80's style box caprices have a cult following, especially in the low rider community. People spend thousands of dollars on lamborgini door kits, hydraulics, true spoke rims, and most importantly...metal flake, candy paint, and tons of clear coat!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    592

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vannmann
    Pane2k,
    believe it or not the 80's style box caprices have a cult following, especially in the low rider community. People spend thousands of dollars on lamborgini door kits, hydraulics, true spoke rims, and most importantly...metal flake, candy paint, and tons of clear coat!
    Well then i apologize. Im not familiar with it and did not know it was a collectible. You may want to consider removing that cheap primer then..and putting your own epoxy.
    But in all honesty...if you scuff the existing primer and paint over it..you probably wont have any issues.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
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    I'm with JCClark on this one. Sand the black E coat with 220 on a DA then spray a couple medium coats of epoxy primer and your good to go for topcoat paint. No need for any high build primers or sealers.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    115

    Default

    E coat stood up to laquer thinner, went ahead and 220, epoxy.

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