want to know the easist way to take these dents out

[3GCVC]

Hey all,
i have been looking around here for a while seeing what i can learn over the last year i have been starting learning to do panel and paint.

i need some ideas on what the "pros" would do to some of the dents on this car(JDM 1986 Honda Prelude 2.0Si) it was hit behind on the right which moved the bootlid pushed the taillight back and owned the rear bumper, it was only hit at very low speed, i managed to roughly get the car back into shape so i could get the taillight back in and the boot (trunk) to shut again then put a new bumper on but i would like it straight and want to do it the right way.

im not sure what happened on the left it was like that when i brought the car and all i can say is thats a pretty shit job of trying to get it back into shape i would like to get it looking good again.

i have a welder at my disposal (180amp MIG on C02 gas you can see in the background in a couple of the photos) and am willing to purchase anything required to get the job done, and if i use it here im sure to use it elsewhere too.


right hand side
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/1.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/3.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/4.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/5.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/6.jpg

left hand side
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/2.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/7.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/8.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud...e damage/9.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud... damage/10.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud... damage/11.jpg


its hard to tell from the photos but there is also dents where i have circled with green on the next two photos, nobody comment on the rust i intend to clean that up at the same time lol
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud... damage/12.jpg
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud... damage/13.jpg

there is a high spot circled in green
http://overclocka.no-ip.org/2.0silud... damage/14.jpg


just wondering the best way to go about taking the dents out and getting the bootlid to align again and shut like it used to no effort without a firm slam.

i will post photos of what it looked like right after the hit if i can find them.

any help appreciated.

[dave_demented]

from what i can see on the left hand side, for that corner thats hit in i would use a mixture of a stud gun/puller on the outside for a bit and a long flat object(such as a dull chisel or a punch) on the inside to finish out shaping. from there i would look for and pop out any other dents that i could find.For the trunk, i think if you were to adjust the latch assembly down some, and tweak the hinges a bit it will fit in there pretty darn good. Then i would put some filler on whatever needs it to finish leveling it out. from there i would sand and guidecoat the filler and then start priming and all that good stuff.

For the left side, it seems to me you've got a lot hiding under there. it looks to me like either there was at one point some very crappy rust repair done at one point, or there was an accident that someone beat out from the inside which broke the paint slightly and caused it to rust. you'll need to strip the paint off of that part of the quarter and get some more pictures to see whats going on there.

i hope this helps

[Len]

It's best to remove most dents by first removing the paint then welding a small stud onto the metal that is pulled and at the same time the metal is tapped lightly. This brings the metal up almost flush then the stud is removed and a light coat of filler can be applied to level any slight surface irregularities.

White is a good color for beginners because it helps hide small mistakes that are often left by novice repairers.

Stud Welder Link

[3GCVC]

im not sure if there is adjustment in the hinges for the bootlid, but i have already moved the latch on the body all the way down just to get the boot to shut. could there be a possibility the back was pushed in and upwards and that is causing it not to shut down where it should.

the left side has been hit before, not sure why they just hit it back out like that the left taillight was a replacement,

im from New Zealand so any stud gun i would need to buy needs to run off 240V do they do both? that sort of stuff around here would be real expensive i would rather buy from overseas countries if i can.

if i take the paint off and start working on the affected areas what should i use to keep surface rust off because it still has to be driven, is it avaliable in white lol?

[Len]

im from New Zealand so any stud gun i would need to buy needs to run off 240V do they do both? that sort of stuff around here would be real expensive i would rather buy from overseas countries if i can.

Do you use the same current and plug configuration as Australia?

[3GCVC]

i think so not 100% sure, 240v 60Hz

[3GCVC]

Do you use the same current and plug configuration as Australia?

now i have asked around we do use the same configuration and current ect can you recomend a good stud gun to get?

[bodymanhelper]

I use the spitznagel..........they offer different setups for pulling on the studs not only the slidehammer

[Len]

I use the spitznagel..........they offer different setups for pulling on the studs not only the slidehammer

Does the Spitznagel offer a 220 volt version?

The HS Unispotter also comes with a variety of tools depending on the kit that you purchase. The Starter Kit only comes with a slide hammer and a couple of studs but the other kits come with several other tools. I checked out the Spitznagel but didn't like the slide hammer so I went with the HS. They may have changed that tool by now but it was a lot wider at the tip than the HS hammer and increased the space needed between studs.

[Len]

now i have asked around we do use the same configuration and current ect can you recomend a good stud gun to get?

HS makes a stud welder specific to your current and plug configuation. I have one of my warehouses looking into it for me and I should have an answer for you tomorrow. If you don't hear from me please remind me on Tuesday and I'll call the warehouse to get the info.

The kit that is sold for this current and plug is the same as the Stinger Kit below.

Stinger Stud Welder Link

[68-chevyman]

This is the kit I have and I love it, it comes with every thing you need.

[samerooo]

I've looked at the pics and I must ask... Does this car have sentimental value to you?

[3GCVC]

I've looked at the pics and I must ask... Does this car have sentimental value to you?

i would say yes.
i havent even owned it for a year and it has done 290,000kms but i have replaced almost all the suspension in the front end and the steering rack, the motor and drivetrain is in VERY good condition as is the interior. it is my favourite car that i own and would be mint if i could clean up the outside.

i am thinking of taking it to a panel beater to have the right side fixed and the bootlid alignment fixed (hopefully they will let me help the repair) the person who hit it will pay for the repair,

i have intentions to fully restore the car this winter including cleaning everything getting the suspension bushings replaced new brakes an engine rebuild (must have more power) and have some koni shocks for it as well i would be painting it closer to the end of the year,

i just wanted to get the dents and rust issues sorted out for the winter. I know there is some rust i will take care of before it is allowed time to develop over winter.

[jhowell]

Well, if the car means that much to you, I would throw out the (as you call it) bootlid and find a salvage yard replacement. It can't be that expensive and not use killing yourself trying to straighten what you've got. If you have an air compressor, see if you can get a cheap sand blaster to clean up the rust.