U-Por high build primer(can)

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You guys ever have trouble with it reacting with old paint or taking a long time to gas?

I haven't had trouble with it personally but the guy training me seems to be cutting a lot of corners and it's always reacting or making old paint react. It's making the job take a lot longer than it should. The guy has a short wave light that has a "flash mode" and puts it on the primer waaaaay to quickly in my opinion. Just wondered what the deal was with this stuff.

Also, trying to figure out ways to spray outside with no problems and surface temp seems to be a concern. Do you think more reducer in the base can help keep the surface cooler for clear? Any mobile guys on here that has tips?

[Dork]

Are you talking about U-Pol High 5 ? If you are, that stuff is crap. It always causes wrinkling and reactions.

[Len]

You guys ever have trouble with it reacting with old paint or taking a long time to gas?

I haven't had trouble with it personally but the guy training me seems to be cutting a lot of corners and it's always reacting or making old paint react. It's making the job take a lot longer than it should. The guy has a short wave light that has a "flash mode" and puts it on the primer waaaaay to quickly in my opinion. Just wondered what the deal was with this stuff.

Also, trying to figure out ways to spray outside with no problems and surface temp seems to be a concern. Do you think more reducer in the base can help keep the surface cooler for clear? Any mobile guys on here that has tips?

Like most aerosol primers it's probably a lacquer and when it's sprayed heavily the thinner will make the substrate wrinkle. Spray it in light coats and allow each coat to dry before you apply another. It takes longer to do the job this way but it "probably" won't wrinkle the previous coating.

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thanks guys.

[igot10pinitis]

i used to work for a fast detail/bumper small body work place as a painter.

i know what your goin thru. The U pol is a LOT better than the sem stuff when it comes to lifting. so switching to sem will not help!! lol

spray it on a lot lighter and it should be fine.

[Kent]

Try transtar 2n1. A lot less aggressive and good stuff. If you have a lamp, use a 2k. It'll dry in 10 mins and give a great mil build plus no wrinkling. In the time it takes to correct the problem or get a good build you could have it primed and your gun clean.

[Roch_Greg]

I saw these 2k (two part) aerosol can's while at the jobbers last week. They are made by a company called SprayMax and come in a Epoxy Primer, Primer Filler, and a Clear Coat. This among other things they make. The components are separated in the can. When your ready to use it you push a button into a part of the can to release the catalyst into the material. Then shake as usual.

I can't find the company who makes it, just vendors. I talked to Len about it and the immediate downside we could see was the pot life. Like any other 2 part product once you mixed it you have only so long to use it.

I passed on it this time for that reason, I didn't want to waste half a can at $15.00~$20.00 a pop. I like the concept though. I'm going to try and contact the manufactuer so I can get some more specifics. Weight of Solids per Volume RTS and coverage specifically.

Greg