Mustang Paint Peeling

[zimaad]

Hey all,

I read a lot of info here a number of months ago when I painted my first car. It was a 1968 Austin Healey Sprite.

Anyways, I'm back now because I just got a 1997 Mustang GT where the paint is peeling all over the metal surfaces. The plasic parts seem to be holding up ok. There is some kind of incompatability between the sealer and the paint. So, I'm considering making this paint job #2 for me, but I have a few questions. Also, I'm planning to use a urethane black in color for paint. The body doens't seemt to have any dings/dents but just failing paint.

1. Is it safe to assume that whatever paint is on the metal surfaces is on it's way to peeling also? Would it be possible to razor back the peeling parts until it doesn't peel anymore then feather in and prime exposed metal?

2. What should I use to prime over the sealer that the paint didnt adhere to or is it asking for problems going over this sealer? I was thinking to rough up the metal and shoot an epoxy primer.

3. Lastly, would i need to epoxy prime the plastic parts (spoiler, inserts, light surrounds, front/rear valance, etc) or could I rough it and shoot paint on it.


Thanks for any help...it's much appreciated.

- Drew

[Len]

1. Is it safe to assume that whatever paint is on the metal surfaces is on it's way to peeling also? Would it be possible to razor back the peeling parts until it doesn't peel anymore then feather in and prime exposed metal?

If you plan on making it last then it would be best to strip the paint and primer off and reprime. Look at our Strip and Repaint page for some tips. If the plastic parts look to be in good shape you can probably don't need to strip them because they were primed with different material than the metal.

2. What should I use to prime over the sealer that the paint didnt adhere to or is it asking for problems going over this sealer? I was thinking to rough up the metal and shoot an epoxy primer.

Ford had a lot of problems with their sealer/primer for a few years. It would be best to remove it and use a good quality primer directly on the metal.

3. Lastly, would i need to epoxy prime the plastic parts (spoiler, inserts, light surrounds, front/rear valance, etc) or could I rough it and shoot paint on it.

I wouldn't put any primer on the painted plastic parts, just clean them well, scuff them with some 400 dry or 600 wet then paint. If they are flexible parts I'd recommend a flex additive be mixed with the paint.

[zimaad]

Thanks much for the reply. I was just trying to see how much work I had ahead of me. I think I knew the right answer, just wanted to make sure I couldn't get by with less work.

The only other question I have(for now) is that when using my sander/polisher with 80grit, it will leave scratches. Good for my epoxy primer adhesion, but will I need to use a 2k primer after that to smooth the scratches out(well, really fill them in I should say)? If possible, I'd like to be able to just use a few coats of the epoxy primer, sand that and then shoot the base coat.

Thanks again... Drew

[Len]

You can remove the 80 scratches by block sanding the epoxy primer or by blocking 2K primer. I usually go with 2K because it's a lot easier to sand than the epoxy primer I use. There are also "direct to metal" primers that are also filler primers that can be used for this procedure.

[Serge]

The Valspar DTM2000 series is a primer like Len mentionned. It's an hybrid epoxy that goes direct onto metal and also acts like a 2K. It's like two primers in one so you do both steps in a single coating.

Its also reasonably priced...The best in those direct to metal high build is House of Kolor KP2CF...but its a little more expensive and needs a couple of days to harden before being sanded...

Like Len mentionned, failing paint should not be left on the car as the foundation of the new paint...its best to remove it and shoot 3 coats of the above primers. Then block sand...

[zimaad]

ok..so, changing the topic a little but still on the mustang. I disassembled all of the plastic pieces today. When spraying things that are 3 dimensional, like the spoiler and front valence/bumper what is the best way to physically set them up and paint. Is hanging best? or setting on something? I would think setting them on something may cause problems because you can't flip it over to do the other side until it's dry.

thanks - Drew