Jamb Questions

[Murf]

Hi, I am doing a color change and the colors are very different. I am concerned about the jambs chipping and looking bad. I assume taking them to metal is the only way to avoid this or will scuffing and using epoxy first do it? It is factory paint on a 65 Pontiac.
I would also like ideas on the best way to get it to look good around the VIN tag. You aren't supposed to remove them, correct? I would hate for a little of the original color to show. Thanks for your time.

Later, Murf

[cruzindablvd]

my best advice is to sand your jambs really good and then put some high build primer to hide the sc scrathces

[Phil V]

Murph, You can do the jambs either way, its just a judgment call on your part. But if you properly scuff the existing paint in those jambs then shoot some epoxy primer that should work as a barrier between the old and the new paint. What I'm getting at is with the epoxy primer over the properly sanded/scuffed original paint if you do cause a paint chip on a door jamb then what you should see is grey epoxy primer and not the original color underneath.

Actually if it were my car it would strip the paint down to bare metal in high traffic areas like down by the sill plate rocker area and the jamb area at front edge of the quarter panel where they usually chip and sand/scuff the rest.

[68-chevyman]

If you can get an epoxy that is close to the paint color rock chips won't stand out as much if you get one and you will get one or two or three or four or,,,,,,,,,,

[Len]

Hi, I am doing a color change and the colors are very different. I am concerned about the jambs chipping and looking bad. I assume taking them to metal is the only way to avoid this or will scuffing and using epoxy first do it? It is factory paint on a 65 Pontiac.
I would also like ideas on the best way to get it to look good around the VIN tag. You aren't supposed to remove them, correct? I would hate for a little of the original color to show. Thanks for your time.

Later, Murf

The jambs usually don't get chipped because they are protected. The original finish on that car is lacquer but you should be able to clean, scuff and shoot your color right on top IF the paint is original factory applied finish. I would apply an adhesion promoter then paint because epoxy primer adds film thickness that isn't necessary.

If the VIN plate is tag that is riveted on I'd drill out the rivets to remove the tag and replace it after the painting. If you don't already have one, a "good" rivet gun like the one below is available for $25.

[Murf]

Thanks for the input guys. PhilV that's what I was thinking of doing. The area by the sill plates is chipped up so I was going to go to metal there. I think I'll skip it up by the hinges though. Any suggestions on getting real ggod coverage by the VIN plate? I guess it is just a question of doing a real good job of masking. Thanks again!

Later, Murf