I have a couple of questions about primers. I am almost ready to shoot my 54 3100 5 window. This is my 1st rodeo so I have some questions about primer. I just purchased my paint (hot rod black) from Eastwood. I beleive it's made by HOK. Is there a particular sanding primer that I should use? I've read about different primers and paints not working well together. I also would like to know if a primer sealer is necessary. Thanks in advance for any replies...Jim
54 3100 5 window - INTERESTING ! got any pictures, I'd sure like to see that one.
This is what I have learned, and Iíve only painted one car, but I have been reading a lot.
Companies highly recommend you stick to one brand. I think it has more to do with preventing problems. Which I could not understand until I ran into them. Such as weird fish eyes.. Nothing like having to do it twice.
I used Auto value primer and Dupont paint, I did not have any problems.
The correct way to paint a car, and anyone correct me if Iím wrong is plastic to bare metal ruffed up with 80 grit, coat bare metal with etching primer or epoxy primer because this will be the most important point to get the paint to stick tight to the car. Than high build primer to get it smooth, a guide coat for a one last time correction of high and low spots. Than a sealer coat which can be you high build paint thinned down with reducer..
Than your base than your clear..
Now if the car has paint, I would not be able to give you a step by step that I'm comfortable with...
I'm can tell you I would use a sealer and after what I went thru getting the primer covered with my yellow base I wish to GOD I had sealed my car with white first! The primmer sucked my paint in and it took over a gallon to cover a very small car.. Yellow is tuff!
As Splatter described, typically there are two primers used - the first is a direct-to-metal primer which is generally either an etch primer or an epoxy primer, and the second is a fill primer that is typically a "2k" (two komponent- German for component) urethane sanding primer. The 2k urethane primers cannot generally be applied to bare metal. You could also use one of the newer epoxy-hybrid DTM (direct to metal) sandable primers such as Valspar's DTM 2000. This primer appears to be the same as HOK's latest DTM primer (Valspar bought HOK some years ago), and is available in black, which would make coverage very easy for you. The desirability of a sealer depends in part on the top coat, and in part on the consitency (or lack thereof) of the underlying surface. If you're going to be shooting on top of patches of different primers, then a sealer can ensure a consistent finish. If you've already got a surface of a single type of paint, and the top coat will cover it well then a sealer is generally not necessary.
Ahhh, a '54 3100 5 window is a 1954 Chevy Pickup with the wrap around rear side windows.
3100 5 window pic
Thank you for all the quick replies. As I mentioned before, this is my first rodeo. This truck was really rough when my brother and I got it. It sat in a field in Pa for many years before we got it. It has an Olds 400 in it and runs great. We are partners in it. He finances, and I do the work. The paint was very hazey. I practiced my wet sanding which is what you see here. I was about 2/3 done when we decided to paint it so I stopped the sanding. We added a custom whiskey keg. We had a hatch cut in it so we can use it as a tool box or a beer cooler, hence the name "The Bootlegger". I built the bed out of cypress. The sides are solid oak flooring, not laminate. The deck of the bed was from a park fence. We are trying to keep it a "backyard project". Anyone with the means can have a credit card hotrod but I think they miss the point. I have had a great time working on this truck.... learning as I go. Hopefully the pic has uploaded. If not, I have no problem emailing pics to anyone interested. Thanks again, Jim
When you get done with your 3100 deluxe, you can do mine afterwards.