Roof Rust Repair on a '67 Galaxie 500

[Ted Young]

Hi Everyone. I'm new to the board and must say that this is an excellent resource! Tons of information here for a young guy like myself to become better educated on correct repair procedures.

My '67 Galaxie 500 has some roof rust issues around the rear window channel from moisture being trapped by the vinyl top (long gone and I'm not going to put a vinyl top back on it). The rust is mainly located on the roof skin, and a few pin holes on the support structure in once section (very minor on the support). Other than this roof rot, this is an excellent car that is very, very solid. It still even bears the original Ford enamel paint.

Here is my plan of attack - please make comments/offer advice if I'm off base.

-Scribe lines around the rotted areas and remove these sections with an air nibbler
-Drill out the spot welds that hold the roof skin to the under structure in the rear window channel below the sections cut with the nibbler to remove them from the car (I will have to use a small air saw in the window channel on either side of the drilled out spot welds)
-use a lapping tool to create a 'shelf' on these cut sections for the patch panels to sit on
-MIG weld in roof sections from a donor vehicle (I'm worried about distoration , what should I do to prevent warping of the roof?)

I plan on using 'Bondo-Glass' for the preliminary filling once the repair panels are welded in, etc. The donor sections were saved from a '68 Torino Fastback that I had parted out a few years ago. They are not exact, but offer the correct shape to be fitted to this car.

Thanks in advance. I look forward to your responses.

[88GT]

Nothing significant on the lower passenger side? That is strange. I would only cut out parts that wont be seen when the trim is on...the 3/4" or so vertical part and pinch weld. Patch that part in with scrap door skin or something. That will minimize warpage. Clean up the upper part of the roof, maybe by sand blasting and treating the metal. Then shape it with kitty hair and filler

[Ted Young]

Nothing significant on the lower passenger side? That is strange. I would only cut out parts that wont be seen when the trim is on...the 3/4" or so vertical part and pinch weld. Patch that part in with scrap door skin or something. That will minimize warpage. Clean up the upper part of the roof, maybe by sand blasting and treating the metal. Then shape it with kitty hair and filler

I was considering using fiberglass mat too, however, the understructure that supports the skin is directly below these rusty areas. I won't be able to get anything under there to back the material.

I guess I could still lap it with the tool to create a shelf for the fiberglass mat?

[88GT]

I was considering using fiberglass mat too, however, the understructure that supports the skin is directly below these rusty areas. I won't be able to get anything under there to back the material.

I guess I could still lap it with the tool to create a shelf for the fiberglass mat?

I would use metal, not mat. And the kitty hair for the initial filling for the moisture resistance.

[Ted Young]

I would use metal, not mat. And the kitty hair for the initial filling for the moisture resistance.

OK. I thought you meant to repair the window channel with new sheet metal and then repair the holes in the skin with mat, as these sections would be visible after the window molding is reinstalled - my misunderstanding. I figure as long as the patches on the skin are a tad low, they can always be filled slightly to produce the correct contour. Was the picture at all helpful? I can post some close ups of the rust if that would help.

Kitty Hair refers to body filler with fiberglass strands, correct? Which brand makes the best version of this type of filler? I've used 'bondo glass' in the past.

Thank you for your advice. I am going to head out and start working on it again. I have the back seat and trim panels out and the headlinder is dropped down. Now I've got to get the package shelf out too.

[88GT]

OK. I thought you meant to repair the window channel with new sheet metal and then repair the holes in the skin with mat, as these sections would be visible after the window molding is reinstalled - my misunderstanding. I figure as long as the patches on the skin are a tad low, they can always be filled slightly to produce the correct contour. Was the picture at all helpful? I can post some close ups of the rust if that would help.

Kitty Hair refers to body filler with fiberglass strands, correct? Which brand makes the best version of this type of filler? I've used 'bondo glass' in the past.

Thank you for your advice. I am going to head out and start working on it again. I have the back seat and trim panels out and the headlinder is dropped down. Now I've got to get the package shelf out too.

Close ups will help. Im not too particular about kitty hair brand. Napa makes some that is real smooth. If there are holes in the roof (the pic didnt seem to indicate that) Then I would try welding in the holes. The final repair area can get quite large...maybe 12" into the skin. Have you looked into a new roof? Might be worth looking into if you can get one for $300 or so

[Ted Young]

Here are more close ups. I was mistaken when I said that the understructure had only minor pitting. The worst section has pretty bad corrosion on the support structure's top as well. It is still very rigid, however.

[88GT]

Here are more close ups. I was mistaken when I said that the understructure had only minor pitting. The worst section has pretty bad corrosion on the support structure's top as well. It is still very rigid, however.

It can still be patched if a roof isnt available. and some of that dammage is into the quarter panel. (On the left) Just dont expect the repair to stay small if you get into the roof skin.
Im still curious why the right side seems to be better. That isnt normally the case

[Ted Young]

It can still be patched if a roof isnt available. and some of that dammage is into the quarter panel. (On the left) Just dont expect the repair to stay small if you get into the roof skin.
Im still curious why the right side seems to be better. That isnt normally the case

I'm not sure as to the reason why the one side is better than the other. I've looked around for a roof skin, however, all the ones I've found are pretty far away. I've found some people who'd be willing to cut this section from a solid roof. I figure if I can get something that's about 6" into the skin past the pinch seam for the window channel that is also cut below the roof/quarter seam that I'd be good to go. What do you think?

For now, I'm going to try and fix it with patches that I've scrounged up.

[teetop60]

Hi Ted,
I'm no expert but I am rebuilding an old car that I can't find exact replacment metal parts for. I found I could take a cut section of the bad metal to the junk yard and match it up with parts of other cars of the same manufacturer. I discovered much of the tooling is the same across the manufacturers car lines. The parts are different but I can usually find something/s that will work without having to build and shape it. Sometimes I get a couple of pieces and weld them together. A portable sawsall is all you need. Of course I only cut pieces after checking with the yard owner. I can usually find some old wreck that is scheduled to be crushed anyway so the yard owner doesn't object and the price is right. I don't think a pro would do this but it has enabled me to replace parts with stuff that looks and fits like the original car. Of course you must be carefull cutting, welding and fitting the pieces. You can probably get everything you need to replace the bad metal for 20 /30 dollars. I just replaced a large rotten section of front cowl on my old valiant with a section from an front damaged 69 dodge sedan. I would have spent days trying to fabricate a repair section with all the curves on the cowl. Cost me ten bucks and it fit in perfectly.
Hope this is helpful.
teetop60

[Ted Young]

Thanks for the response. I had some window channel sections that I saved from a '68 Torino. Turns out, they can be made to fit pretty well.

I think that a pro wouldn't do this because of the time involved as compared to just welding in a new patch panel. If the labor is extensive, the cost is prohibitive for them and they wouldn't be able to offer a competative price.

For us, however, the time is ours - so it makes sense rather than buying an expensive repair panel.

Hi Ted,
I found I could take a cut section of the bad metal to the junk yard and match it up with parts of other cars of the same manufacturer...... I don't think a pro would do this but it has enabled me to replace parts with stuff that looks and fits like the original car. ............. I would have spent days trying to fabricate a repair section with all the curves on the cowl. Cost me ten bucks and it fit in perfectly. Hope this is helpful.
teetop60

[Greg Reid]

I did to my '68 GTO pretty much what you are trying to do to your Ford. Same situation with a mostly solid car with vinyl top syndrome.
Both sail panels, both sides over the rain gutter and the front 8 inches or so over the windshield including the glass channel were all replaced with parts from a '70 LeMans. I found the entire roof on eBay and had the guy cut it into pieces. It cost about $75 including shipping.
I'd never done any welding before but like you say, it's difficult to find anyone willing to do this kind of work for you. I've been working on this car for over a year but am now at the blocking stage.

[Greg Reid]

More pics-

[Greg Reid]

A couple more- The front clip is still in epoxy and filler on this pic as I just put it on. I have 2K on it now.
I just posted these to show that it can be done the way you're proposing...and I have no experience in body work. Trying to learn as I go. I does take a lot of time and I know I made some mistakes but I don't believe any fatal..

[Greg Reid]

One last mention...I have been told by people with experience that I'll probably have to go back with vinyl.
They say that, regardless of how good it looks to me now, the repairs will begin to show eventually as ridges, tiny hairline cracks and such...I'm still undecided.