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Thread: 2K primer topcoat question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    11

    Default 2K primer topcoat question

    Hey all,

    I am in the middle of doing my first paint job. So far, going OK, but I definately have a new respect for the hard work and expertice of people that are good at it. One thing I've learned is that I'm not good yet and I need lots of practice!!!

    I have a question about 2K primer. It says to allow 30min dry time before top coating. I thought you were supposed to wet sand the 2K primer before topcoating to get that smooth finish. My 2K is definatly not smooth and feels somewhat rough/grainy to the touch. Are you supposed to topcoat the 2K without sanding? What is the correct (probably more that one) approach here? My plan is epoxy primer, any filler work needed, 2K primer, 220 wet sand, 2k primer again, then wet sand with 320 and 400, then do the top coats.

    Thanks for the help. This site has been great for me!!!

    - Drew

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    San Francisco bay area California
    Posts
    12,308

    Default

    Drew, your plans are just fine. You "can" topcoat many undercoats without sanding. But the "2K" (I assume you are talking about a urethane primer) are for "surfacing" by sanding out imperfections prior to painting, THAT is the point of the product as you already know.

    If you are shooting a "pearl" type metallic color you may want to bring her up to 500 or 600 though. Are we talking bc/cc or a single stage?

    Brian

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    11

    Default

    thanks for the reply.... since this is my first paint job, I'm doing a single stage. I plan on shooting a couple of coats. At least two, probably 3 or 4 though. It's not a metallic finish either, just a straight forward red. I purchased this car for almost nothing(it's a 68 Austin Healey Sprite) with the intention of learning body work. I love old cars and plan on restoring cars for a hobby for years to come, so I wanted to start learning. Man do I have a LOT to learn!!!

    What you said it what I thought for a 2K Urethane. I was pleasantly surprise how easily it sanded down. I also learned a 1.4 nozzle doesn't work so well with non-reduced 2K!!

    take it easy - Drew

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Kamloops. B.C.
    Posts
    1,976

    Default

    Just so you know, single stage is not easier than BC/CC for a beginer. In single stage you are trying to lay down the paint heavy enough to not get the orange peel/dry spray, yet not so heavy as to let it run. With BC/CC when you lay down the color you are not concerned with gloss, so you just make sure you have coverage and no runs. When you shoot your clear you are after gloss,and if it does run, it's much easier to sand it out and polish.
    Steve g.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    11

    Default

    With a clear coat, is it usually better to go with a bigger or smaller nozzle? (1.8 vs 1.4). My original thoughts were smaller, but after reading some posts I'm led to think the larger may be better.

    Thanks

  6. #6
    88GT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zimaad
    With a clear coat, is it usually better to go with a bigger or smaller nozzle? (1.8 vs 1.4). My original thoughts were smaller, but after reading some posts I'm led to think the larger may be better.

    Thanks
    I think a 1.8 tip is too big for BC/CC. I wouldnt use it. Its more for primer.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I'll just test spray a little with each tip and see which I like better.

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