Sure Finish Questions.
Ok I would like to use the Finsh film method and try the Sure finish products when it's time to sand out my clear. I'm just a little confused on how to take steps to use the products. Hoping Len jumps in to give me a general guide as to the steps to take on using them both. I Plan to purchase the Airadvantage for the Finish film along with the interface pad. With the Sure finish do I also need something to cut it with? I was under the impression that it does that, but maybe I misread that. I just want to get a list of what I need to order so I can use everything in sequence. I also was thinking of the 4000 Albion(sp) for that final perfect wet sand. Just not sure if I need it or not. Also could use some help in determining what pads that I will need.
First, you have to know what you're trying to accomplish with your colorsanding.
If you're trying to get an absolutely flat, show car finish, then the prep before the paint had better be flawless or all your waves are going to show up like crazy when you cut out all the orange peel.
If you just want to make a nicer than it came from the factory finish and something you can feel good driving but not crazy if it gets a door ding or rock chip that's a whole lot easier all around.
To start with finishing film and the AirVantage, most the time 1500 film is just fine. While you're painting the car, throw some paint at a test panel, an old fender or sun roof or something so you have something to practice sanding before you start on your car.
Sand to within about a quarter to a half inch from all your edges with the Airvantage. Start with the speed about one third of all out and bring it up as you get more confident. Stop often and make sure you film isn't pilling up, little dots of paint on the film that gouge into the surface and leave a pigtail shaped scratch. Alternatively you can spray just a little water on the surface and work the film wet, that keeps the pills from forming.
Sand a small area then buff with a wool pad and Sure Finish, then follow that with the orange pad, then hand rub with hydrophilic sponge and wipe off the residue with a microfiber cloth. You'll be able to tell by how the buffing goes if you need to sand differently.
Color Sanding and Buffing
Finishing Film (usually a half box will be plenty for one car)
4000 Grit Abralon (usually 5 disks for one car)
Sure Finish Polish (one quart but more if you intend to keep buffing)
Buffer (Makita is the best one I sell, it works great.)
Minimum of one Sure Finish Orange Pad and the small backing plate.
The Foamed Wool pad will help cut faster but if you use the 4000 grit Abralon you won't need the wool pad because buffing will go much easier.
If you purchase all of these items at one time I'll throw in a high quality 7.5" Sure Finish backing plate and an 8" High Density Wool Pad. To get this extra $33 value you need to call and ask for it and place the order at the same time... 1-888-485-5008
I have a few of these plates and pads left so anyone who wants to get their color sanding and polishing tools can get the same deal until I run out. It's worth it just for the really nice backing plate. These are items "D" and "F" below.
If/when you call ask for a couple of sheets of 1500 grit wet paper to catch the spots that you can't get to with the Finishing Film.
Thanks Robert and Len. That is the info I was looking for. Don't worry my car is very flat. I spent months on and off getting it as perfect as possible. Funny since it will be white. Len I will get ahold of you to proceed. Thanks.
a couple different things. Panels flat with no waves in your bodywork.
In the colorsanding world FLAT means the measurement of texture in the paint application sprayed on; ORANGE PEEL.
You should do a sample paint on an old panel; find an old hood or other panel. Prep it just decently (I mean no need for zero rust, etc) since it's only practice for your paint technique. You could creat rough to orange peel then adjust your gun to flow the paint out as smooth (or flat - no texture) as you can. Do this on different sections of the panel. Don't try to spray a smooth coat over a textured coat. Tape off sections of the practice hood.
Once you begin to sand you can actually see the craters of the orange peel and dull flat areas. The BOTTOM of the orange peel craters will still be shiny. So, flat in this situation would be no craters. Most ALL factory paintjobs have their share of orange peel so when a shop has to match a section they often have to put in or leave some orage peel to match the texture of the surrounding areas; it's not only color that has to match.
I suggest you get that orange pad with your Sure Finish. You'll have fun turning all the prep and paint into fantastic results following the colorsanding suggestions above and by using the Sure Finish Process. Keep us posted. Henry