Evercoat Metat 2 Metal
Do you guys have any tips on using evercoat's Metal2metal filler?
I opened the can today and the stuff is so thick. I got it mixed up but its crazy to try and spread it out smooth.
Does anybody know any tips to actually get stuff to spread and smooth?
Its too thick to even spread? Ummm, I dont think it should be THAT thick...
well it spreads but it will not even come close to smooth, it just clumps up as i pass the spreader over it
ill take a picture later if i can
I've used Metal-2-Metal quite a bit...and the only thing that comes to mind, is if the filler in the can has already started to dry out and thicken (in which case, it's worth inspecting and trying a different can).
While M-2-M is a little thicker than standard lightweight polyester fillers like RAGE, it's not thicker by much, so from a "good" fresh can it should spread just fine.
The way I work w/ it, is take a paint stick to extract some filler from the can (mixing in the can beforehand if need be, it can settle a bit), put it on a dollar store rigid plastic cutting board (covered w/ a film transparency) and transfer the glob and any residue from the stick, to the sheet, by using a squeegee. Add several drops for that golfball size (whatever the can says as a starting point) and fully incorporate it. I use two squeegees, to make doubly sure I get any residual unincorporated filler mixed w/ the MEK...it's the sort of thing you want to be sure to develop a sound technique for mixing the two, since you have no visual indicator to let you know when (and to boot, the more you mix it, the more you accelerate the reaction, and thicken the filler, and detract from the likelihood of a smooth application)...also, try to get the first layer down w/ some fair pressure to get it into the scratches and resist the temptation to overwork it once applied, that sort of just thickens it even more.
If you manage to pick up any semi-dried or thicker parts of filler that were clinging near the edge of the lid, or dried on top of the remaining filler as a skin...you'll want to avoid doing that in future scoops as that thickened dried stuff will never incorporate into the mix, and when you try to spread it they'll work like rocks dragged over a smooth surface and just leave you w/ valleys (and a combo of some hard but uncatalyzed globs).
I once did purchase two brand new, unopened cans of Metal-2-Metal, and when I opened them, they were both dried up and hard as a rock. It looked as it somewhere in their life, the cans' sides had been bumped in, and I suspect that was enough to mess just enough w/ the seal of the lid to let air pass freely. (It must have taken a long time, since I have a can of bondo that was half used up ten years ago, and that's still fine...so who knows why the M-2-M hardened).
Point being, that even if the can of filler is "new" and looks good (I realize, hard to say w/ only one can under your belt to go by), that it might in fact be a bit compromised. The cans I had that were bad, obviously didn't dry out to rock hard overnight, so I suspect that anywhere for a long time prior to that, they were still workable but thickening all the while, till I bought them.
Of the cans that I have that I've opened and used, they hold up, though thicken slightly more.
Perhaps, since M-2-M is part of the Metalworks family of hardeners, you could incoporate just a small amount of something like Metal Glaze, to help reduce the viscosity of the resin (or Plastic Honey for that matter).
The M-2-M takes a liquid hardener. Basically all the other fillers take a paste type hardener...Yet, per Evercoat, they say you can intermix their fillers in the Metal works family (I've never tried it, as I've just worked w/ the fillers at the viscosity I received them in the can)...I always wondered about the intermixing of those two, and wondering if the hardners were then interchangeable, or why not...but that's another ? for another day.
It's been many years since I've used M 2 M
but I don't remember it being real thick, If you have access to a paint shaker you might shake it for a while and see if that help's.
Then again it could be getting old and starting to dry out.
I think you found the problem, from what i have heard now, it should not be anything like what i have, so i guess ill take it back
Originally Posted by AlexeiVT
but i already have some on and i am almost done in that spot, do you think its alright to leave it on, or should i take it off and start over again in that spot?
Id probably take it off, cuz it may not have the hardener mixed consistantly throughout since it was so thick when you mixed it.
Without actually seeing it and knowing what's on there (and comparing it to what it should've worked like), in the long run it's probably better peace of mind to remove anything suspect.
When in doubt, start w/ something good and fresh...in terms of the overall investment in time and labour, redoing it isn't much in the big picture, and it'd be a shame to have something go amiss in a small spot, after you've shot $100's worth of primer and paint over the area.
That said, how does it sand and is it dried firmly and all the way through?
If it's at all soft or gummy anywhere, better to remove it. The thing of concern would be any of those semi-dried thicker clumpier small ball-bearing sized portions...they would not have mixed and been incorporated w/ the rest of the filler, thus aren't catalyzed, and if they're in the mix somewhere they're just globs that aren't right.
Look at it w/ the mindset that you're going to get another chance to level the area perfect, develop your technique, and get some more experience =)
thanks guys, it was all a very even consistency while i was mixing and none of it was gummy at all after drying, sanded perfectly normal
so i think its going to stay on there because ive already put the glaze over top and almost done with that area