orbital sanders

[teg51]

I have a 6" CP sander and use adhesive paper on it. I would like to find a foam pad for sanding primer and areas with slight bends. I hate to change to "hook it" pads and paper as I have several rolls of adhesive backed on the shelf.

does anyone know if there is anything available for adhesive backed paper?

Thanks

[Phil V]

teq51, you really shouldn't be sanding primer with a DA. The whole idea of using primer is so that you can block sand the panel flat. DAs are not good for flat sanding primer, they tend to dig divits and the whole panel will have highs and lows in the primer. If you paint the panel then look down the side of the car it will look like an old wash board. We professional bodymen/painters have a technical name for those highs and low spots, we call them "a bunch a whoop-ti-doo's", hehehe.

[teg51]

I am not one to disagree with the professionals but I was watching two bodymen useing DA's with foam pads first to remove the straight line marks left in the Rage Gold with 70 grit, then applied a layer of metal glaze putty and smoothed it with a DA, foam pad and 180 grit then several coats of high build primer and DA's with foam pad and I think 220 grit.

This was done on an 1967 Mustang Elanor and it was painted Black with gold strips and looked great! I never thought it was a good way until I watched them. But right or wrong I am still looking for a foam pad so I can try it.

Thanks for your advice

[88GT]

I bought a replacement pad where I buy my paint supplies, but I agree with Phil.

[teg51]

I don't think I will ever be able to use one the way that they did without creating problems and I know they don't do the whole car that way. My DA's have the hard rubber disc and it seems that having a layer of foam would make them a lot better but I haven't found a foam pad for adhesive paper.

[Len]

Phil is absolutely right, you shouldn't be trying to level filler or primer with a 6" orbital sander. The 6" orbitals are great for feathering damaged paint or for removing orange peel from newly painted surfaces but if you try to level filler or primer you will get waves or other imperfections. Leveling should be done using a long board or block either powered or by hand.

[teg51]

I know all of you are right and I wasn't trying to argue the point. I was just stating what I had seen. I appriciate all of you keeping me lined out on this.

I am still looking for a foam pad that will work with adhesives though.

Thanks for your help!

[justing70]

try here http://abrasives4sale.com/dapads.htm If thats not what you're looking for let me know, I'll look at one of my pads at work and see if it still has a part # on it. The one I have isn't an interface pad, it is just a half inch thick, spongey stik it pad. As with the others, not really good for body work, but it does a good job sanding around rivets without leaving any gouges.

[teg51]

Thanks, I think they have what I am looking for.

[MARTINSR]

I agree as long as we are all talking about a "DA" like a National Detroit "DAQ". That type of sander is pretty agressive and will cut highs and lows. However, a "finish sander" type "DA" though not really a "DA" as it doesn't have "dual action" it is commonly called a "DA". So let's all get on the same page. If it is a "DA" it is not very good for finish sanding primer. HOWEVER (again ) if you are doing door jambs or something like that were the upmost flat panel is not really what you are after a DA would be fine for "surfacing" scratches or rust pits or something like that.

But a "finish sander" orbital 6", they CAN get some pretty amazingly flat panels. I will cut polyester putty down with one using 180. I use it to just "get it cut" and then block it by hand. But I am amazed over and over when I see how flat the bugger gets. I rub my hand over it and many times hardly can find a place to use the block!

Brian

[justing70]

The 3m part # is 05546. I'm pretty sure this is the one you are talking about.

[Phil V]

Brian, there is a difference between you or me using an air sander to block some certain applications because we're professionals with many years experience. But its a formula for disaster for a novice to try and block sand primer with a DA or an "orbital sander" regardless of what 6" pad is on the air sander. NO professional bodyman or painter will finish sand primer with a DA or an orbital sander. If I saw a new bodyman/painter in my shop block sanding primer with a DA - the first thing I'd ask him is - " What the !#&%$ do you think your doing ???" Then I would most likely fire him on the spot.

[isprayum]

phil, what are your thoughts on a painter blocking with 320 then using a finish da to remove block marks. with say, 500 and dry guide coat.

what is your production method for removing block marks prior to paint?

[Len]

I don't understand. Why do you have blocking marks after blocking 320? I've never had that problem.

[Len]

The 3m part # is 05546. I'm pretty sure this is the one you are talking about.

5546 is just a foam stick-it pad that attaches to the sander. I think he's looking for an "interface pad" similar to the one shown below used with hook and loop sandpaper. I've never seen one for stick-on paper