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Thread: Painting the car with doors, fenders removed

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Aw, it was a dumb question that should not have been asked, I now have the doors & fenders sanded using a guide coat and 400g paper, Monday I am going to tackle the hood and the body. I must admit the GC made me quite picky trying to find every black spot and eliminate them and to think I will have to do it all over by the weekend.
    I do have a question about painting the little stuff like door hinges and hood hinges any trick to spraying.
    Have a great week
    JG
    Just remember you won't want to sand into the dark spots, you want to sand the material around the spots to level the surface. If necessary you should apply more primer to bring the low spot up and not sand down to remove the dark spots.

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Aw, it was a dumb question that should not have been asked, I now have the doors & fenders sanded using a guide coat and 400g paper, Monday I am going to tackle the hood and the body. I must admit the GC made me quite picky trying to find every black spot and eliminate them and to think I will have to do it all over by the weekend.
    I do have a question about painting the little stuff like door hinges and hood hinges any trick to spraying.
    Have a great week
    JG
    Hey buddy, let me remind you, you are on the ABS (Autobody Store Forum) and there are NO DUMB QUESTIONS here! (Only those NOT asked!)

    We learn from what we ask so ask away!

    Henry

  3. #48
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    I need some expertise on this part, it is the spare tire lid and I believe it has fallen off more than once, there is no way I can get a smooth surface like it is other than replace it (impossible) do I tap the high spots down also all I have is wood hammers and ball peen.
    Len you say to not sand the dark spots either use more primer or fill can I fill over the guide coat?Trunk tire.jpg

  4. #49
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    yes, tap down the high spots. find some kind of block to use on the back side as a dolly and use the ball peen to tap. it's not the best, but if it's all you have...tap them down till they're slightly low, then fill the area. i'd probably skim coat the whole thing, then block it. you can get it flat.
    i think len means, if you see small areas of guide coat, don't keep sanding them. they're already low. if they're really low, use filler to bring them up. if they're just a tad low, either use glazing putty or add primer as a filler. you should have at least some kind of scratch mark before you add material though. if you are going to use filler, scratch with 80 grit or thereabouts, if glazing, probably 180 or 220. just so there's some kind of roughness for a bond.
    if you're just going to add primer, 400 scratch will be ok.
    b marler

  5. #50
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    the hard part is holding that lid so you can sand it effectively. is there anything to use to clamp it down to the bench top? a bracket or hole on the back side maybe? it would be best to keep the whole top clear while you work it.
    b marler

  6. #51
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    Thank you for setting the procedure and yes being a woodworker I have more clamps than I need in fact I am going to make a jig to hold it
    Is there a site for used equipment as I was spraying 4:1 DTM Primer with a Finishline, all was going well, and then the gun quit spraying and I had to go to a harbor freight special to finish I will now have to redo the boot lid. I looked on Ebay, a lot of small guns mostly suction and some Devilbiss which seems to be a popular gun.
    Happy Holidays
    JG
    Last edited by wisconsinjimmy; 12-15-2021 at 06:23 PM.

  7. #52
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    Here is the hood the white is Epoxy coat is the white high? if so when I try to level it out won't there be a large amount of putty?
    20211216_124725.jpg
    20211216_124740.jpg

  8. #53
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    To me it looks like 4 big shallow dents. Take a pencil and finish the circle that is started by looking at the white epoxy on the high area on the edge of the dent. You should be able to feel them by rubbing your hand along the edge of the crown of the hood. Go over all of them lightly with a 2 second motion of your hand from one end of the hood to the other. Do it several times until you can feel them. You can put on a skim coat filler that is quite runny. Try long tool strokes so you get an even covering without a lot of tool marks then sand most of it off with 80 grit and start the primer over again.

    Bob K

  9. #54
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    for help feeling the surface irregularities, place a paper towel flat between your hand and the panel. then pass it over the area like bob said. it can give you better feel. sometimes i close my eyes when doing that too. it helps me concentrate on what i'm touching.
    b marler

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    for help feeling the surface irregularities, place a paper towel flat between your hand and the panel. then pass it over the area like bob said. it can give you better feel. sometimes i close my eyes when doing that too. it helps me concentrate on what i'm touching.
    Exactly the way I do it, only with a common red shop towel with splayed out fingers. I have a feeling you need to shoot 1 or 2 more coats of high build as it appears really close when observing the guide coat. Just like Bob and Brian stated, run your hands over and get a feel for it. It will tell you what you need

  11. #56
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    Thank You, how do you make a runny batch of putty?

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Thank you for setting the procedure and yes being a woodworker I have more clamps than I need in fact I am going to make a jig to hold it
    Is there a site for used equipment as I was spraying 4:1 DTM Primer with a Finishline, all was going well, and then the gun quit spraying and I had to go to a harbor freight special to finish I will now have to redo the boot lid. I looked on Ebay, a lot of small guns mostly suction and some Devilbiss which seems to be a popular gun.
    Happy Holidays
    JG
    Jimmy,

    On your " 4:1 DTM Primer" was this by any chance your HB primer? You need to check your TDS as products like Feather Fill and Slick Sand have less than a 30 minute pot life and will clog/ruin a gun in just minutes. Double check your products TDS as some of these products can get away from you in a hurry and trash a gun (ask me how I know)

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Thank You, how do you make a runny batch of putty?
    I using Icing by USC, however there are many similar products on the market i.e. Evercoat Polyester glazing 425 or this one Len sells works really good:
    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=FM

  14. #59
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    Ron,
    I am using a primer from TCP Global it is 4:1 and has a 4-hour pot life, I think it was the Eastwood Finishline that caused the problem. I have now installed a separator at the pressor and I have one at the gun. I bought a gallon of U-Pol high b and once it gets here and thaws out I will hit the parts one last time before the color, is it wise to add the fisheye to the paint, or does that cause problem?

  15. #60
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    Default And...

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    for help feeling the surface irregularities, place a paper towel flat between your hand and the panel. then pass it over the area like bob said. it can give you better feel. sometimes i close my eyes when doing that too. it helps me concentrate on what i'm touching.
    Be sure to feel in 'different directions'! When my mind says something is not quite right, I move to another area to work and go back. Guide Coat is your friend also but my hand usually doesn't lie.

    Hang in there. You WILL get it perfectly!

    Henry

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