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Thread: Epoxy Primer How Much Time

  1. #1
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    Default Epoxy Primer How Much Time

    I am going to take the Prefect to bare metal with 3 coats of color and the primer I know something bad will happen, do I spray each panel as soon as I get it to bare metal or do the whole car and then put the primer on also how much time do I have to spray the color AU - ACRYLIC URETHANE. I am a bit worried about flash rust as it is getting cold here. One other question is it smart to paint the door handles as to re-chrome is out of the question and buying new repops is way expensive.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    I am going to take the Prefect to bare metal with 3 coats of color and the primer I know something bad will happen, do I spray each panel as soon as I get it to bare metal or do the whole car and then put the primer on also how much time do I have to spray the color AU - ACRYLIC URETHANE. I am a bit worried about flash rust as it is getting cold here. One other question is it smart to paint the door handles as to re-chrome is out of the question and buying new repops is way expensive.
    If you're going to strip the entire car I'd recommend spraying epoxy primer and the end of each days work, don't let the bare metal sit for more than a day. If you decide to paint the door handles scuff them lightly then clean using grease and wax remover then prime and paint.

    The time between epoxy primer application and top coating can depend on the products used and the temperature. At 70 degrees F I usually top coat my primer between 2 and 6 hours but the re-coat window for some primers can extend for 24 hours or longer.

  3. #3
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    What do you mean by top coating?
    If the topcoat is the color I think it is out of my league as I was going to do a panel at a time then prime, wait till I have it all primed

  4. #4
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    Most epoxy primers have a set time that after you spray it, if you spray something else on top within a time window, you don't need to scuff the surface.

    So if you have a 24 hour recoat window, you can spray your epoxy, and any time in the next 24 hours, you can spray another coat of epoxy or a sandable primer or even a finish coat and you don't need to sand. The paint will bond chemically with the epoxy paint.

    Once it passes the 24 hours, then you need to open up the surface by scuffing.

    Hope that helps.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    What do you mean by top coating?
    If the topcoat is the color I think it is out of my league as I was going to do a panel at a time then prime, wait till I have it all primed
    Just as Len stated, finish a panel at a time and put it into epoxy primer. You have the choice to spray Optex 4:1 high build primer which is a DTM product. You are correct to worry over flash rust but both of these products will keep that from occurring. I can generally go 2-3 days before I have to hit the bare metal panel to prevent flash rust, however I am in central Texas. If you live in a damp climate I would spray at the end of each day just as Len stated. Using Optex 4:1 saves your epoxy and provides a high build to work off of. If you strip a panel that will need extensive work afterwards I would hit it with epoxy and save your Optex (if you decide this product is right for you). The point being is to save time and materials by not duplicating your efforts. I would study both of these products and see what is right for your project. Check out the Optex 4:1 TDS below and no Evercoat doesn't pay me to push their product, I have just come to love it but it absolutely hasn't eliminated my needs to use epoxy when the time is right for it.

    http://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/...ild_US-ENG.pdf

  6. #6
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    I appreciate your time and advice my problem is the money, this car cost a fortune in the exchange rate and shipping etc and I know if want a quality job I have to spend the dollar. Is there a less expensive topcoat I could use/

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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    I appreciate your time and advice my problem is the money, this car cost a fortune in the exchange rate and shipping etc and I know if want a quality job I have to spend the dollar. Is there a less expensive topcoat I could use/
    What do you consider the top coat? The Epoxy?

  8. #8
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    First I strip the panel (door) and when it is to bare steel I spray the epoxy and within the time window I then spray a high build primer, what I need to know is if there is a less expensive brand of primer (topcoat) I can use if possible? As I have said I am not looking for a show car just a car with remembrance of my dad.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    First I strip the panel (door) and when it is to bare steel I spray the epoxy and within the time window I then spray a high build primer, what I need to know is if there is a less expensive brand of primer (topcoat) I can use if possible? As I have said I am not looking for a show car just a car with remembrance of my dad.
    Click on The Coatings Store banner at the top of this page and check out their products. We use several of their primers and top coats and find that they work well for our low cost jobs.

  10. #10

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    Some epoxy primers have a recoat window as long as 7 days.

  11. #11
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    Gray DTM High Build 2K Primer Surfacer (Direct to Metal) 2.1 VOC, 1-1/4 Gallon Kit - Fast Dry High-
    I went with TCP as the last two vehicles I did came out ok did not want to spend that much money but it is what it is and they gave me free shipping at least that is what they said and I know nothing is free.
    I look back at what I did as a kid and my first job was in a body shop where I did the taping and untaping on a part-time basis I eventually worked my way up to pounding tin and filling but never paint as it was a quick way to lose brain sells but a lot of the things I learned have faded into oblivion from there I moved to Bumpas Farm in MN and that is where I stayed and beat my body up, I am 75 and a bit slow so I ask questions some might seem dumb so please bear with me. This car is almost rust free but the paint is a bit gnarly .
    Thanks to all

  12. #12
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    https://www.empireabrasives.com/4-1-...-removal-disc/
    I cannot locate the link that was posted for sanding pads for the 4-1/2" angle grinder and after ordering 3 pack on Amazon I found this company and the same disk/pad is way cheaper.
    Last edited by wisconsinjimmy; 11-09-2021 at 12:45 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    www.empireabrasives.com/
    I cannot locate the link that was posted for sanding pads for the 4-1/2" angle grinder and after ordering 3 pack on Amazon I found this company and the same disk/pad is way cheaper.
    be careful using the 4-1/2 inch grinder on sheet metal, you can overheat pretty quickly. if i'm using a small grinder for stripping paint i'll use those stripping pads, not sanding discs. typically, i'll use my rotary buffer on low speed with an 80 grit pad on large areas. it goes really quickly. even the low cost harbor freight buffer will be adequate.
    b marler

  14. #14
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    They are not grinding disks but Surface Conditioning Discs, after the car is to bare metal do I first apply the epoxy and then fill minor dings or do I fill minor dings then spray the epoxy?
    Last edited by wisconsinjimmy; 11-05-2021 at 11:29 PM.

  15. #15
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    I stripped, then epoxy, then filler. Some will go filler then epoxy. Seems to be a divided point as to what is better.
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

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