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Thread: Car back from shop for half trunk repaint (my request) - bad CC edge fix

  1. #1

    Default Car back from shop for half trunk repaint (my request) - bad CC edge fix

    Greetings Autobodystore people. My car was damaged on the lower half of the trunk and a trip to the bodyshop was in order. I elected to have just the lower half painted to preserve the factory paint on the top half. The owner agreed that it was a good approach and doable and no blending would be done. Three reputable indy bodyshops that I got quotes at all agreed minimally invasive is best since I wanted to preserve the factory paint as much as possible.

    I got my car back from the shop and the only issues are a bad mask line that needs to be addressed and some orange peel that needs to be worked out better. I don't want to take my car back to the shop for fear of making things worse (i.e. "oops, we accidentally dented your door" or "darn, the paint matches worse than before"). They already had to shoot three times to get the metallic flakes down right but the owner was standup and ensured they'd get it right no matter how long it took. In the end, he was a bit miffed since he said the labor + materials cost him more than what I paid. Don't get me wrong, I would love to just have the shop fix it since I paid for it but due to the aforementioned reasons and me looking at this as a window of opportunity to DIY and learn I'm passing on bringing my car back.

    Here is the obligatory pix. The white is I'm assuming glaze/buffing compound which makes the terrible mask line even more pronounced. Can anyone provide any pointers on how to use clear touchup paint or 2K spray and make this look better?

    I saw this video on "cutting a blend line" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LX-rDv8Pv5g

    but was wondering if thinning the clearcoat line down like that would lead to faster breakdown or peeling. Since the mask line on my trunk is at a line break between upper and lower halfs it's not as visible on say a door panel. I already purchased:

    Different grit sandpapers 1500 through 5000 from 3M Trizact and Meguiars, multiple sanding blocks, 3M Platinum glaze putty to use for leveling clear during sanding. Any tips or insight would be GREATLY appreciated.


  2. #2
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    Do you have another picture that would show what you're talking about in proper context ? In other words a picture from about 3 or 4 feet away to see what we're really taking about ?

  3. #3
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    As Phil stated you need to provide another pic that shows the entire scope of the job as your pic makes this look like unmatched paint. Am I correct in assuming this is on the inside of the trunk? From your repair materials list you included glazing putty, are you planning to repainting this area or possibly don't understand what glazing putty is used for?

    "The white is I'm assuming glaze/buffing compound ", I don't think that is the case. The "white" areas appear to me as 600g scratch marks for shooting bc/cc if we are talking about the same area, better pic will tell all. If this is on the inside on truck and you are just wanting to get rid of tape lines you can follow the video you provided, however I would start with 2500g wet as you have no idea how much original cc is left in sanded areas (white) nor how much build was applied, so go slow. The video link you supplied has one problem when buffing edges, as you should always have the wheel direction rotating off the edge, not into it. Rotating a buffing wheel into any edge has a strong chance of cutting through both the bc and cc. If all this work is in a confined area (cannot tell by provided pic) consider using a small disc buffer like the link provided below, I have both the battery and air units and they are great for confined and detail work. Using an 8-10" high powered buffing wheel can get tricky if you don't have some background with their use and could cause way more damage than you want. Provide a few better pics and it will be much easier to understand what is occuring.

    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=T2

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil V View Post
    Do you have another picture that would show what you're talking about in proper context ? In other words a picture from about 3 or 4 feet away to see what we're really taking about ?
    I'll get another photo soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    As Phil stated you need to provide another pic that shows the entire scope of the job as your pic makes this look like unmatched paint. Am I correct in assuming this is on the inside of the trunk? From your repair materials list you included glazing putty, are you planning to repainting this area or possibly don't understand what glazing putty is used for?

    "The white is I'm assuming glaze/buffing compound ", I don't think that is the case. The "white" areas appear to me as 600g scratch marks for shooting bc/cc if we are talking about the same area, better pic will tell all. If this is on the inside on truck and you are just wanting to get rid of tape lines you can follow the video you provided, however I would start with 2500g wet as you have no idea how much original cc is left in sanded areas (white) nor how much build was applied, so go slow. The video link you supplied has one problem when buffing edges, as you should always have the wheel direction rotating off the edge, not into it. Rotating a buffing wheel into any edge has a strong chance of cutting through both the bc and cc. If all this work is in a confined area (cannot tell by provided pic) consider using a small disc buffer like the link provided below, I have both the battery and air units and they are great for confined and detail work. Using an 8-10" high powered buffing wheel can get tricky if you don't have some background with their use and could cause way more damage than you want. Provide a few better pics and it will be much easier to understand what is occuring.

    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=T2
    This is actually on the outside of the trunk, lower half. The shop deemed using the bodyline between upper and lower half of trunk suitable for a half panel repaint. Goal being the desire to maintain factory paint up top. The paint match is actually 98% spot on. I've shown several people and they could not tell, and this is in sun or shade so I am happy for the work it took to match.

    I bought polyester putty as I've read that it's ideal for sanding away lines using similar methods such as this (updated video):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn6nPky0HGs

    I plan to do it all by hand to minimize any chances of burn-through. I have plenty of time so no need to rush. I'll get a better photo to you guys.
    Last edited by Oakdanklin; 11-01-2021 at 04:17 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oakdanklin View Post
    I'll get another photo soon.



    This is actually on the outside of the trunk, lower half. The shop deemed using the bodyline between upper and lower half of trunk suitable for a half panel repaint. Goal being the desire to maintain factory paint up top. The paint match is actually 98% spot on. I've shown several people and they could not tell, and this is in sun or shade so I am happy for the work it took to match.

    I bought polyester putty as I've read that it's ideal for sanding away lines using similar methods such as this:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xFOEvujabo

    I plan to do it all by hand to minimize any chances of burn-through. I have plenty of time so no need to rush. I'll get a better photo to you guys.

    You don't have the full picture of polyester putty. If you apply polyester putty to your project it will be going back to the paint shop. Yes, you can use polyester to alleviate runs after knocking down large runs, but it has to be re-primed and painted. You do understand polyester putty is just a thinned down body filler correct? I am not a fan of that type repair for breaks but it is an option when applied at the correct stage and/or not enough cc has been applied as you are going to respray and blend the area. I just don't see this as an option for you but you may know something I don't as I have never considered myself a professional.

  6. #6
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    You need to step back a minute on this project.

    You are jumping to very complicated fixes, ie adding more putty filler and sanding it off etc.

    Have you tried just getting some polishing compound and rubbing that area? You may have enough there to shine it up a bit and hide it completely unless you go searching for it.

    Start small it is simpler.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oakdanklin View Post
    I'll get another photo soon.



    This is actually on the outside of the trunk, lower half. The shop deemed using the bodyline between upper and lower half of trunk suitable for a half panel repaint. Goal being the desire to maintain factory paint up top. The paint match is actually 98% spot on. I've shown several people and they could not tell, and this is in sun or shade so I am happy for the work it took to match.

    I bought polyester putty as I've read that it's ideal for sanding away lines using similar methods such as this (updated video):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn6nPky0HGs

    I plan to do it all by hand to minimize any chances of burn-through. I have plenty of time so no need to rush. I'll get a better photo to you guys.
    What do you plan on doing yourself ? I saw no clear coat runs in the picture you posted.

    spot putty definitely won't get rid of that clumsy blend line.

    You seem to think that a factory clear is far superior to a good quality aftermarket clear. No necessarily the case.

    Either way I would still like to see that "blend line" from 3 or 4 feet away to give the situation proper context.

  8. #8
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    Default Like this!

    Quote Originally Posted by Oakdanklin View Post
    I'll get another photo soon.



    This is actually on the outside of the trunk, lower half. The shop deemed using the bodyline between upper and lower half of trunk suitable for a half panel repaint. Goal being the desire to maintain factory paint up top. The paint match is actually 98% spot on. I've shown several people and they could not tell, and this is in sun or shade so I am happy for the work it took to match.

    I bought polyester putty as I've read that it's ideal for sanding away lines using similar methods such as this (updated video):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn6nPky0HGs

    I plan to do it all by hand to minimize any chances of burn-through. I have plenty of time so no need to rush. I'll get a better photo to you guys.
    Proud to bring the video below as it's from "One of US" - an AutoBodyStore member. Watch his method or the how's & why's. He came here, learned here with his young son to build a MUSTANG and they were very successful after years on that car.

    Ronf, this is using the putty to bring up the level of the run on both sides. Then, sanding the putty & run at the same time it all levels, the run is gone and great CAUTION needs to happen as NOT to sand through the surrounding paint. I first thought what you did and CRINGED!


    (This is a 3 stage Candy Apple paint job from THE COATING STORE (ads on every page here)

    Keep us posted.

    Henry

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Proud to bring the video below as it's from "One of US" - an AutoBodyStore member. Watch his method or the how's & why's. He came here, learned here with his young son to build a MUSTANG and they were very successful after years on that car.

    Ronf, this is using the putty to bring up the level of the run on both sides. Then, sanding the putty & run at the same time it all levels, the run is gone and great CAUTION needs to happen as NOT to sand through the surrounding paint. I first thought what you did and CRINGED!


    (This is a 3 stage Candy Apple paint job from THE COATING STORE (ads on every page here)

    Keep us posted.

    Henry
    Thanks henry! I have seen that done before but I just don't see where he has that much breaking. I have never tried that method but I do understand the principle to help keep the surface level for sanding. My only problem with this is you have to know how much CC has been laid, but you are correct it is an option under the right circumstance. I've always used the razor blade method but only then when heavy breaks occur. Maybe I need to give this a shot sometime (hopefully I don't get runs that bad anymore). Thanks again henry for the post and vid!

  10. #10
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    Spot putty is soft while clear coat is hard. They are not going to sand the same and they won't sand level. There is little doubt in my mind that at least 80% of the time block sanding polyester spot putty with 240 or 320 grit grit paper is a formula for the cut through(sand through the clear into the base coat).

    And it will NOT work on the blend line pictured here in the post #1.

    I'm curious, what make and model and year of car are we talking about here with the horrendous blend line ?

  11. #11
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    Default Can't see pics?

    I only see the linked videos in this thread, none of the pics that are being discussed. What am I doing wrong?

  12. #12
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    Default More ?

    Quote Originally Posted by KenCombs View Post
    I only see the linked videos in this thread, none of the pics that are being discussed. What am I doing wrong?
    I only find one pic in the thread which is in the link below. Click on that and see if you get the pic:

    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...188#post438188

    Further, do you get to see pics on other threads? Keep us posted.

    Henry

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    I only find one pic in the thread which is in the link below. Click on that and see if you get the pic:

    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...188#post438188

    Further, do you get to see pics on other threads? Keep us posted.

    Henry
    I don't see a picture on that post. Do you?

  14. #14
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    Default NO...

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I don't see a picture on that post. Do you?
    The pic is in post #1 of the thread and I was wondering if he clicked that, if he could see that one.

    Henry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    The pic is in post #1 of the thread and I was wondering if he clicked that, if he could see that one.

    Henry
    The only link I see in post #1 is the youtube link.

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