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Thread: 1950 Ford Prefect

  1. #1
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    Default 1950 Ford Prefect

    unnamed1.jpg
    I am redoing my late fathers 1950 Prefect which has been in a machine shed and then the pole building since 1963, he bought the car in 1959, and somewhere between 1959 and 1963, the engine went bad I almost have all the parts to get the engine running. I want to keep the car looking just like it is on the outside what can I use to protect the I am an old car look?
    Regards
    Jim

  2. #2
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    Default Yes sir...

    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    unnamed1.jpg
    I am redoing my late fathers 1950 Prefect which has been in a machine shed and then the pole building since 1963, he bought the car in 1959, and somewhere between 1959 and 1963, the engine went bad I almost have all the parts to get the engine running. I want to keep the car looking just like it is on the outside what can I use to protect the I am an old car look?
    Regards
    Jim
    Welcome back! Yeah, I'd like to have that car.

    If you mean keep the paint looking like it is, I would look into light scuffing and urethane clearcoat it. Now, this all depends on what's really on the surface.

    First step would be to wash it really well with DAWN dishwashing soap and get every crack & crevice. Keep us posted and others will chime in on this one. Take care!

    Henry

  3. #3
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    Wow, you have an Anglia (Prefect and Poplar used this format for Anglia's)! Put a 454 in it and drag the quarter mile. Sorry, couldn't help myself as it took me back too my racing days. Do just as henry stated if you want to preserve this outstanding time capsule. In the U.S. these cars were highly sought out during the 60's and 70's for qt mile drag racing. When I was racing in the 70's they had their own classification. Squirrely as hell to drive with all that hp, but damn it was fun.

  4. #4
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    Gasser, that is what they were called it is a good thing I am 75 if I was 30yrs young it would get a BIG Mill with a large HUFFER. You saw the Anglia more than the Prefect seems 2 doors were better than 4 yet the difference between the cars is only a couple of inches.

    I would like to keep it as is but in the process of cleaning the welting I have messed up some of the paint which sucks as the paint is really expensive these days.
    Heck, even the floorboards (plywood was still fairly solid) Yup has wood floors and Push and Pray Brakes. Depending on who you talk to it is either 10HP or 30HP. Wil post more pics.
    Thank you for the compliments she is going to be SICK when all done.

  5. #5
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Gasser, that is what they were called it is a good thing I am 75 if I was 30yrs young it would get a BIG Mill with a large HUFFER. You saw the Anglia more than the Prefect seems 2 doors were better than 4 yet the difference between the cars is only a couple of inches.

    I would like to keep it as is but in the process of cleaning the welting I have messed up some of the paint which sucks as the paint is really expensive these days.
    Heck, even the floorboards (plywood was still fairly solid) Yup has wood floors and Push and Pray Brakes. Depending on who you talk to it is either 10HP or 30HP. Wil post more pics.
    Thank you for the compliments she is going to be SICK when all done.
    PLEASE: Don't take this wrong but it resembles a PT Cruiser. Maybe that's what they copied.

    I still would love to have that car you have.

    Henry

  6. #6
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    i don't think i've ever seen one of those that hasn't been converted to drag race. i gotta agree, it would be super fun to do one with modern drivetrain parts. hellcat maybe?
    actually, good on you for keeping it whole. i don't know if i'd clear coat it or not, depends on if you have indoor storage for it. the air cooled vw crowd is big on patina, they would have some ideas if you troll their websites.
    the problem with clearcoat is that if you do it wrong, it really looks wrong. flat or satin clear would probably be best if going that route. do test panels first!
    i think i'd probably clean it really well as henry suggests, then decide. don't scuff with anything coarser than magic eraser until you decide whether or not to clear it. do small areas that won't be noticeable first till you perfect your cleaning strategy.
    b marler

  7. #7
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    The car has been repainted one time, original color is some shade of tan kind of gross and the color you see was put on sometime in the 50's I do not believe my father had this done. I think it is an Earl Sheibe job as the door jams were not sprayed and you see a bit of overspray on the glass. I have a feeling I am either going to repaint. Due to the cost of paint, it will more than likely be Rustoleum enamel unless I have a great uncle die. I will post a pic of the car today.

  8. #8
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    Never even was a dark spot in my mind but now that you mention it it does have some resemblance ( chuckle)

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    The car has been repainted one time, original color is some shade of tan kind of gross and the color you see was put on sometime in the 50's I do not believe my father had this done. I think it is an Earl Sheibe job as the door jams were not sprayed and you see a bit of overspray on the glass. I have a feeling I am either going to repaint. Due to the cost of paint, it will more than likely be Rustoleum enamel unless I have a great uncle die. I will post a pic of the car today.
    before you buy a can of rustoleum for that, look at the coatings store website, linked on the top of the page. decent products for a good price. if you're doing a complete paint job on a budget it's worth looking at.
    b marler

  10. #10
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    How much paint do you think this will take and I would be using a solid color.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    How much paint do you think this will take and I would be using a solid color.
    A gallon should be plenty if you use a small detail gun for the jambs and any other smaller areas and use a decent big gun for the exterior.

  12. #12
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    just looking at the coatings store website, it doesn't seem like there's much in the way of single stage. the single stage kits were pretty cost effective, and good for old cars. now it looks like pretty much base/clear unless you want low gloss. any feedback on that len? have they changed their offerings?
    on the other hand, base/clear wouldn't be the end of the world.
    b marler

  13. #13
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    Wow, a gallon! I was thinking a couple of quarts darn I would have been in trouble. There was a body paint company in Joplin, MO that I bought paint from turned out to be some kind of Corvette color that did not look right got it really cheap but I am looking at it back when. The reason I am being so cheap is I am on a pension and I have to really pinch the pennies. One thing I am worried about is if the paint I choose to spray might be too
    hot and lift the finish I am trying to save or cover, it does not look like lacquer seems to be too smooth.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wisconsinjimmy View Post
    Wow, a gallon! I was thinking a couple of quarts darn I would have been in trouble. There was a body paint company in Joplin, MO that I bought paint from turned out to be some kind of Corvette color that did not look right got it really cheap but I am looking at it back when. The reason I am being so cheap is I am on a pension and I have to really pinch the pennies. One thing I am worried about is if the paint I choose to spray might be too
    hot and lift the finish I am trying to save or cover, it does not look like lacquer seems to be too smooth.
    i must be missing your strategy on what you're going to paint. are you keeping the existing color and just trying to preserve it? if that's the case and you're just shooting clear you might be able to use less product. different brands of paint mix differently so the amount to spray can vary. one quart can turn into 1-1/2 or even two by the time you mix it with hardener and reducer.
    b marler

  15. #15
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    First I was going to just put a clear on it to keep the rust at bay, then I removed the fenders so I could get at the welting which meant a bit of sanding to remove the welting, in the process, I got a bit high and scuffed the pain and bared some steel so when I taped it off I have a bit of primer that will show when the fenders go back on. Probably will not be a problem as there is so much wear all around people most likely will not notice.My Post1.jpg

    This is the spare tire hatch, I have no idea what was used for a filler but as you can see lots of cracks yet it is really hard to grind off with 80g I am thinking 50g? This panel is full of bumps like it has come loose from the car while on the road so with limited tools should I just fill over everything as they did here or send it out to a shop.
    Thanks
    Last edited by wisconsinjimmy; 10-20-2021 at 03:08 PM. Reason: add photo

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