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Thread: PPG Shop Line Clear ... maximum time between coats?

  1. #1

    Default PPG Shop Line Clear ... maximum time between coats?

    Good morning - so I'm nearing the end of the paint process for my tractor restoration. I started with PPG Shop Line Epoxy Primer (2 coats), Shop Line Base (3 coats covered well), and Shop Line Clear....and here's the question/problem.

    I didn't coordinate well and ran out of time last night, by the time I put on the first wet coat of clear it was after 1am and I was exhausted. I decided I would simply do the remaining coats later today. What I didn't think about though is whether or not you can even do this with clear....if I were to try applying my 2nd and 3rd wet coats about 16 hours after the first, am I going to be in for a nasty surprise with a bad reaction or wrinkling?

    Is it OK to wait that long between clear coats, or am I now facing having to scuff everything? Because it is a tractor, surface prep is extremely difficult because of all the nooks/crannies and odd shapes, it makes doing any fine surface prep work a nightmare. I could "make do" with a single coat if it means having to lightly sand or scuff everything.... but I want and prefer to get the proper coating....so does anyone know if I will be OK to do coats #2 and #3 this afternoon, as-is? I was using the medium (60-75 degree) hardener at 4:1. I think it went down below 60 last night but should be around 70ish today in Michigan.

    Thank you! (pictures added to show example of how it currently sits with 1 coat....looks "wrinkled" in some spots on engine block, but that is the texture of the cast iron)

    IMG-1582.jpg
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    IMG-1579.jpg
    Last edited by kingsley73; 09-28-2021 at 10:35 AM. Reason: added pics

  2. #2
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    Wow that would be a nightmare to scuff at this point. If I were doing it I'd probably just apply my next coats. Press your thumb against one of the glossy surfaces to see if it leaves your fingerprint and, if so, you're probably ok to apply the next coats. But, like I said, I would probably just go with the next coats anyway especially if the tractor is kept under cover when not in use.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Wow that would be a nightmare to scuff at this point. If I were doing it I'd probably just apply my next coats. Press your thumb against one of the glossy surfaces to see if it leaves your fingerprint and, if so, you're probably ok to apply the next coats. But, like I said, I would probably just go with the next coats anyway especially if the tractor is kept under cover when not in use.
    Thanks Len, I suspect I will be OK but I know a lot of crazy things can always happen. Even just getting one more good wet coat on will satisfy me. I'll do the thumbprint trick to confirm.

    Thank you as always!

  4. #4
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    I have an old Farmall H I wish I had time to do that to.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingsley73 View Post
    Thanks Len, I suspect I will be OK but I know a lot of crazy things can always happen. Even just getting one more good wet coat on will satisfy me. I'll do the thumbprint trick to confirm.

    Thank you as always!
    I used a lot of ppg clears and had excellent results with their shopline clear.

    And I agree with Len. That clear is still soft enough to go ahead and just spray more clear. I wouldn't do it after a couple days but within 24 hours you hsould be good to go. (been there, done that that for different reasons and it worked out fine).

    Other purists will tell you the clear has to be scuffed etc but not with the shopline clear.

  6. #6

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    Thanks all for the continued advice. Last night I went ahead and sprayed the 2nd coat of clear on and everything went just fine.... other than a couple small mistakes that I made with slamming the clear on a little too hard and getting a few runs in a couple of places. But, overall there were no problems so now I know that you can stretch the window a little between coats and not have to scuff - at least with the specific Shop Line clear. I am very happy with that system for this application.

    In case anyone was wondering, I used the cheap purple Harbor Freight HVLP gun with 1.4 tip to spray on two coats of Shop Line epoxy primer, then used the Devilbiss Pro Lite with the 1.3 tip and TE20 air cap for 3 coats of Shop Line base and 2 coats of Shop Line clear. I found the best results for all of the nooks and crannies by running my fluid at about 1 3/4 to 2 turns out and narrowing the fan with around 26-28 PSI. I absolutely love this gun, it did an amazing job of atomizing the paint and makes a beautiful fan.

    I'm planning on waiting a few days before touching anything and then I'll deal with the few drops of clearcoat runs and call the chassis good. Now I just have to do some fill/body work on the hood panels and spray those gray. The closest match I could get to the Ford Gray was by utilizing the RAL color pallet, #7032. Unfortunately my local PPG store couldn't mix that color with Shop Line, so I had to go with a single-stage mix using their Delfleet line. He did say that it should accept the Shop Line clearcoat over the top if the gloss is underwhelming, so we shall see! I'll post some progress pics of the rebuild once those are painted, if anyone is interested.

    Thank you all for your continued expertise and guidance!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingsley73 View Post
    Thanks all for the continued advice. Last night I went ahead and sprayed the 2nd coat of clear on and everything went just fine.... other than a couple small mistakes that I made with slamming the clear on a little too hard and getting a few runs in a couple of places. But, overall there were no problems so now I know that you can stretch the window a little between coats and not have to scuff - at least with the specific Shop Line clear. I am very happy with that system for this application.

    In case anyone was wondering, I used the cheap purple Harbor Freight HVLP gun with 1.4 tip to spray on two coats of Shop Line epoxy primer, then used the Devilbiss Pro Lite with the 1.3 tip and TE20 air cap for 3 coats of Shop Line base and 2 coats of Shop Line clear. I found the best results for all of the nooks and crannies by running my fluid at about 1 3/4 to 2 turns out and narrowing the fan with around 26-28 PSI. I absolutely love this gun, it did an amazing job of atomizing the paint and makes a beautiful fan.

    I'm planning on waiting a few days before touching anything and then I'll deal with the few drops of clearcoat runs and call the chassis good. Now I just have to do some fill/body work on the hood panels and spray those gray. The closest match I could get to the Ford Gray was by utilizing the RAL color pallet, #7032. Unfortunately my local PPG store couldn't mix that color with Shop Line, so I had to go with a single-stage mix using their Delfleet line. He did say that it should accept the Shop Line clearcoat over the top if the gloss is underwhelming, so we shall see! I'll post some progress pics of the rebuild once those are painted, if anyone is interested.

    Thank you all for your continued expertise and guidance!
    Definitely post some photo's of the progress on your tractor. Always good to see a nice restoration on a tractor.

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