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Thread: truck paint between bed/cab

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    151

    Default truck paint between bed/cab

    I know the best way to paint this area between the truck bed/cab would be to remove the bed. I don't think that will be an easy job with this bed. There was a lot of rust under there, and many years of treating it/covering with undercoat, etc. Would likely take a lot of cutting/grinding. So what's the second best way? Last time I painted this truck was about 7 years ago. It was not a color change (this one is). If I remember, I think I turned down the fan on the gun, as well as the volume. I don't remember how it worked out, but I was painting a black truck black so it didn't matter as much. the picture keeps going sideways when i post it, sorry
    20210918_164938.jpg
    20210918_164938.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    2,135

    Default

    I take 2 pieces of flat bar or angle iron a little longer than the distance between the front and rear bolt of the bed. Tack weld the bar to the bolt heads. If there are 4 bolts on each side then you will have 4 bolts welded to the bar. Next take an impact gun and take the nuts off the bolts from below the truck. Put penetrating oil on the bolts the day before. If they break then just get new bolts, but if they donít break then grind the weld off and reuse them when you put the box back into place. Most of the time the bolts just spin in the box and make the holes bigger, the welded bar prevents that if they are as rusted as you say. If you donít like doing that you could just tie a sponge to a stick and slobber the paint on from the side. How will anyone see if the quality of the paint application isnít as good as it could be? I wouldnít do that though. If you remove the box then you can check the cab corners and replace them at that time.
    Bob K

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    ok, sponge on a stick. Had not thought of that. Like you mentioned, it would not be ideal. Thanks for the tips

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    there are also small diameter rollers with long handles that just fit in the gap.
    b marler

  5. #5

    Default

    The first time I removed the bed on my 78 I just bought new bolts, drilled the heads off the old ones and pushed them through with an air chisel. That's a 10 minute job, then you can slide the bed back and do your thing.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    30,621

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    To do it right the bed has to be slid back at least 2 feet. In this case you can't cheat the hangman.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    Thanks for the ideas. I am going to remove the bed. Turns out I need to weld new support rails under the bed anyway. I have a shop crane and a lift, so with one of those it will be a one man job. Thanks for helping me decide to do it right.

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