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Thread: One final question on epoxy primer/Slicksand

  1. #1
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    Cool One final question on epoxy primer/Slicksand

    Today I'm gonna shoot epoxy primer on the roof. Metal/filler is finished with 80g. Once I lay 2 coats of DTM epoxy primer, I'm going to lay 2 coats of Slicksand on top of the epoxy within the recoat window.
    Question:
    Can I spray the Slicksand on top of the epoxy primer without scuffing the epoxy primer? Will it stick properly?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by evintho View Post
    Today I'm gonna shoot epoxy primer on the roof. Metal/filler is finished with 80g. Once I lay 2 coats of DTM epoxy primer, I'm going to lay 2 coats of Slicksand on top of the epoxy within the recoat window.
    Question:
    Can I spray the Slicksand on top of the epoxy primer without scuffing the epoxy primer? Will it stick properly?
    If I were doing it I'd scuff the epoxy primer with some 220 grit. I've never put Slick Sand over anything without scuffing first but it does hold on well and if the epoxy is within the re-coat window it may bond well but without some type of test I'd sand it first.

    Be sure you use a large fluid tip when spraying Slick Sand. I'd recommend a 1.8 or larger.

  3. #3
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    Dec 2015
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    I shoot Feather Fill all the time in your exact scenario. However, I shoot a high end epoxy primer (PPG DPLF) before FF which "may" make a difference. I let the epoxy flash for 30-45 minutes prior to shooting Feather Fill (unreduced) with a 2.2 tip. Feather Fill is basically the same product as Slick Sand (both produced by Evercoat) only a little less viscosity. I also shoot Slick Sand but prefer to let epoxy set overnight, scratch and shoot. On Slick Sand I shoot it reduced with 5% acetone using a 2.2 tip. If I shoot FF onto a scratched epoxy surface I shoot it with an 1.8 tip 5-10% reduced.

  4. #4
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    Cool

    Well, I guess I'll shoot the epoxy today, let it sit overnight, scuff with 220 tomorrow (hope it doesn't gum up the sandpaper), then lay down the SS. My DTM probably isn't very high end. Bought it from Summit.....definitely not PPG. I'll be shooting both DTM and SS with a cheap gun with a 2.5 tip. I don't plan on reducing the SS.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by evintho View Post
    Well, I guess I'll shoot the epoxy today, let it sit overnight, scuff with 220 tomorrow (hope it doesn't gum up the sandpaper), then lay down the SS. My DTM probably isn't very high end. Bought it from Summit.....definitely not PPG. I'll be shooting both DTM and SS with a cheap gun with a 2.5 tip. I don't plan on reducing the SS.
    You should be OK with the 2.5 tip.

  6. #6
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    I'm with Len, you should be fine with that tip. Pay close attention to how your epoxy is laying and move along. Never used an auto body product from Summit so can't say to it's quality but I would think you are fine. I would absolutely hit a test panel to assure your gun is properly set up, especially on the epoxy.

  7. #7

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    Maybe the next to last question.....

    Stripped my hood to metal with a DA and 80 grit. Shot two counts of epoxy. Fixed a couple spots with filler and then two complete coats of slick sand, then hit the third coat on the spots where I used filler.

    Blocked with 180.

    Blocking now with 220. The 320 next.

    What is a 2K primer to go on top of the Slick Sand?

    Prepping a 72 K5 inside and out.

    Scott

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott123 View Post
    Maybe the next to last question.....

    Stripped my hood to metal with a DA and 80 grit. Shot two counts of epoxy. Fixed a couple spots with filler and then two complete coats of slick sand, then hit the third coat on the spots where I used filler.

    Blocked with 180.

    Blocking now with 220. The 320 next.

    What is a 2K primer to go on top of the Slick Sand?

    Prepping a 72 K5 inside and out.

    Scott
    sure miss my 72 k5, i loved that truck.
    there's a ton of primers you can use. i like the ppg dps305x, but the ppg shopline is good too. i've also used my local jobbers (wesco) euro-prime with good results.
    b marler

  9. #9

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    This is the K5. It is in a primer black now and this is how I bought it. This was a deal of a lifetime. I'm the guy that normally pays the 'higher price' so someone else can get the deal.

    The 68 front clip is coming off and especially the cowl induction hood. Working a 72 front clip to put it back like it was built.

    I will try to post some pics of the work as I go.

    Painted a few over the years but not a pro by any means.

    Trying to do it sections so I can still drive it over the summer.

    Thanks for the help.

    Scott
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10

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    And the hoop-dy wheels on the way out as well. LOL

    Scott

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott123 View Post
    And the hoop-dy wheels on the way out as well. LOL

    Scott
    i was wondering... i ran rally wheels on mine, looked perfect.
    to me those k5's look best in factory form. mine was hugger orange with a white soft top. i nicknamed it creamsicle. keep us posted on the progress.
    b marler

  12. #12

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    This is my first time using Slick Sand or any type of spray-type-filler. I used a 2.0 tip and did not reduce it at all. It sprayed OK I guess. It did not orange peel up like I thought it would and it builds way higher than I expected.

    My hood is a factory hood and it had a ding or two. I blocked in the hood with 180. I expected to get down to the epoxy in some places but either the slick sand is way thicker than I thought or my hood is a lot more straight than I was thinking, maybe a combination of the two.

    I had one low spot, ding, not even half the size of a dime and one water spot from condensation at the end of the hose (not paying attention). Other than those two spots things are really flat.

    Can I block the Slick Sand again or should I go with the 2K? I am thinking I can block it until I see some sort of breakthrough and then prime but again, I have never used a Slick Sand type product.

    And one more question, the truck is in a black primer. "I was told" when I bought it the outsides of the truck had been stripped to the metal and worked from there. I am not sure if I should go with that and take my chances or is there a way to tell if what is there will be safe to work on top of....??? If that makes sense.

    Scott

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott123 View Post
    This is my first time using Slick Sand or any type of spray-type-filler. I used a 2.0 tip and did not reduce it at all. It sprayed OK I guess. It did not orange peel up like I thought it would and it builds way higher than I expected.

    My hood is a factory hood and it had a ding or two. I blocked in the hood with 180. I expected to get down to the epoxy in some places but either the slick sand is way thicker than I thought or my hood is a lot more straight than I was thinking, maybe a combination of the two.

    I had one low spot, ding, not even half the size of a dime and one water spot from condensation at the end of the hose (not paying attention). Other than those two spots things are really flat.

    Can I block the Slick Sand again or should I go with the 2K? I am thinking I can block it until I see some sort of breakthrough and then prime but again, I have never used a Slick Sand type product.

    And one more question, the truck is in a black primer. "I was told" when I bought it the outsides of the truck had been stripped to the metal and worked from there. I am not sure if I should go with that and take my chances or is there a way to tell if what is there will be safe to work on top of....??? If that makes sense.

    Scott
    slick sand is simply spray on filler. just like filler you'd apply with a spreader. whenever i apply filler i try to remove as much as possible. if you have a couple of low spots and don't think the slick sand is thick enough to fully remove them you might want to apply a little filler in those spots now. then you can block it all down together.
    if i were you, i'd keep blocking it till you start to see it get a little translucent in spots. that'll let you know you're about to break through. then switch to 2k urethane or epoxy or whatever you're going to apply next.
    i'm always suspect of what someone tells me regarding prep work that has already been done. at the very least i'd strip the areas that usually rust. rockers, behind the wheels, etc...then maybe explore some more in various places.
    do you know what product is on it now? if not, i'd probably strip it. you're doing it in pieces anyway, why take chances?
    if you do know what's on it, and are continuing to build on that, i'd probably do an adhesion test to be sure your foundation is good.
    b marler

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    slick sand is simply spray on filler. just like filler you'd apply with a spreader. whenever i apply filler i try to remove as much as possible. if you have a couple of low spots and don't think the slick sand is thick enough to fully remove them you might want to apply a little filler in those spots now. then you can block it all down together.
    if i were you, i'd keep blocking it till you start to see it get a little translucent in spots. that'll let you know you're about to break through. then switch to 2k urethane or epoxy or whatever you're going to apply next.
    i'm always suspect of what someone tells me regarding prep work that has already been done. at the very least i'd strip the areas that usually rust. rockers, behind the wheels, etc...then maybe explore some more in various places.
    do you know what product is on it now? if not, i'd probably strip it. you're doing it in pieces anyway, why take chances?
    if you do know what's on it, and are continuing to build on that, i'd probably do an adhesion test to be sure your foundation is good.
    bmarler covers everything you need in his reply and as always gives quality advice that can be depended on. Only thing I can add is too always use guide coat while blocking and use the largest block possible that still fits the contour of panel. I use anywhere from a 30" Dura block (not my usual and requires a 2 man operation) to as small as paint stir sticks, it all depends on surface I am blocking all the while using proper sanding techniques. The goal in body filler is too use the least amount of material as possible but enough to cover all the imperfections, as the saying goes "90% of what you apply ends up on the floor". Any chance the previous owner had any documentation (pics, product TDS, etc.) on the work he performed? Unless you have clear evidence of what is under that primer you need to follow bmarlers advice and explore problem areas.

  15. #15

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    I was thinking the same, since I am doing it in sections it makes no sense to take a chance. Not being a pro maybe I just needed to hear from people that know.

    As far as the previous owner, he gave me a paint/primer code from Sherwin Williams and it did not match anything they had and internet searches were not much help. All the sheet metal has been replaced, rockers, rocker boxes, inner kick panels and the floor was patched. That much I can see. The rear quarters feel good and straight to the touch but as said, I do not know what lurks below.

    I am using a couple different Durablocks with guide coat. The longest one may be 18" or 20". Then a couple three smaller ones. I'm an e-bay/Amazon shopper and found a 4 or 5 block set for next to nothing compared to what I see them sold individually.

    Again, first time with this type spray-filler and I was thinking I could block again and maybe even again til I see some evidence of break thru then go from there.



    Thanks for the help.

    Scott

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