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Thread: 36 chevy coupe custom dash and sub dash build

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marten View Post
    WOW!!!!! That looks awesome.
    Thanks Marten I appreciate the compliment. As you might assume these waterfall grills and trim are the show case pieces for the 30's era cars. 2 solid days of picking, sanding and polishing can get tedious and frustrating, but I always know in the end it will be worth the effort.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    bmarler,

    I am very interested in the Chemithon polish and the Flitz for protection. I use the fine grade unitized silicone carbide roloc discs now on stainless trim and on occasion the roloc 320 grit flap discs (I don't use flap discs on 26 ga., just scares me). You are absolutely dead on with bluing or hardening the metal during polish out, big problem when this occurs. I looked for the Chemithon polish (brick) but cannot find it, I would really like to give this product a shot. Maybe when you have time you could demo it? I assume it can be used on 8" wheel buffers? Do you apply it in the same manner as rouge, 1-2 seconds on the buffing wheel? Any additional info you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks buddy for taking the time to respond and look forward too hearing more on these products!
    that polish isn't really available online, you have to know the part number to order it. i think the minimum order is like 10 pounds or something. i'm going to see what i have in the shop and send you some. i know i have a bunch of it still from the last order. you apply it just like you say, a couple of seconds on the wheel.
    b marler

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    that polish isn't really available online, you have to know the part number to order it. i think the minimum order is like 10 pounds or something. i'm going to see what i have in the shop and send you some. i know i have a bunch of it still from the last order. you apply it just like you say, a couple of seconds on the wheel.
    Brian,

    I will happily pay for product and shipping if you are willing to send it for me to try. I looked through the Chemithon web site and followed their links for distributors but came up blank for an outlet near me. On this particular trim it was so rough I actually had to start the buffing process with the sisal rope wheel followed by the Levi wheel and on to the tight knit buffing wheels using the brown rouge (I hit it with the black emery rouge but it made no change). I finished up with the loose knit wheels using green and white rouge. I personally don't think white rouge is all that effective on stainless but can't stand the thought I might be missing a step. This has been my standard go to process for better than 10-15 years, so I absolutely know I am behind the times in terms of modern products for polishing. Thanks again for any additional advise you can provide! I seriously need to get up too speed with polishing trim work.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Brian,

    I will happily pay for product and shipping if you are willing to send it for me to try. I looked through the Chemithon web site and followed their links for distributors but came up blank for an outlet near me. On this particular trim it was so rough I actually had to start the buffing process with the sisal rope wheel followed by the Levi wheel and on to the tight knit buffing wheels using the brown rouge (I hit it with the black emery rouge but it made no change). I finished up with the loose knit wheels using green and white rouge. I personally don't think white rouge is all that effective on stainless but can't stand the thought I might be missing a step. This has been my standard go to process for better than 10-15 years, so I absolutely know I am behind the times in terms of modern products for polishing. Thanks again for any additional advise you can provide! I seriously need to get up too speed with polishing trim work.
    i think you are pretty much up to speed on polishing, the results certainly say so. i used to do as many steps as you do too. you go with what works. my son is the one that turned me on to the different products. he does some amazing work on high end yachts. blended and polished railings, huge mirror polished bow roller assemblies, custom made hawse pipe assemblies, you name it. very impressive stuff. he is very up to speed with abrasives and tries all the new stuff in order to fine tune his technique.
    i trained him initially using my old tried and true products, i used to step through three different rouges. but he schooled me later and now my stuff is better and easier to do. i only have a couple of different wheels now as well, a loose one and a tight one. depends on if i'm cutting or polishing.
    i'll send you a chunk of the polish (rouge) i'm using, and if you like it, when it's time to do an order we'll split it. you need to keep it in a sealed plastic bag so it doesn't dry out. zip lock is fine.
    do i have your mailing address? pm it to me if you don't mind.
    b marler

  5. #35
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    here's my method for polishing stainless. i put a small weld on a chunk of scrap tubing.20210920_163753.jpg
    20210920_164001.jpg
    my arsenal20210920_164054.jpg

    20210920_164051.jpg
    first pass with medium scotchbrite on a 2 inch roloc
    20210920_164455.jpg

    more to come in the next post
    b marler

  6. #36
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    second pass with the fine unitized 3 inch roloc.
    20210920_164622.jpg
    load the polish on a small buff
    20210920_164717.jpg
    first pass with the polish. i took a couple more before going to the flitz
    20210920_164840.jpg
    here's the flitz, just coat it and let it sit for a sec.
    20210920_165234.jpg
    buff with a soft wheel.
    20210920_165809.jpg

    this was done in maybe 10 minutes. if i was working something important i'd take more time. trim pieces are fragile and require more finesse but the method and products are the same.
    i did find out it's tough to get a reasonable photo of shiny stuff, lol.
    b marler

  7. #37
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    Default Green rouge

    Brian,

    Pictorial is great and thank you for the demo. Very nice work! I get that photos of finished stainless is almost impossible to capture that shows the true work. I'm curious if your green rouge is different from what I buy from Caswell Plating. Look at the link below and see what you think. I have ordered some of the Flitz polish to try as your picture shows a nice shine! I use the gray unitized disc on the heavier trim now, obviously I need to give it a go on the lighter gauges. Thanks again for the info, as always your work is stellar.

    https://caswellplating.com/green-rouge-j-52.html

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Brian,

    Pictorial is great and thank you for the demo. Very nice work! I get that photos of finished stainless is almost impossible to capture that shows the true work. I'm curious if your green rouge is different from what I buy from Caswell Plating. Look at the link below and see what you think. I have ordered some of the Flitz polish to try as your picture shows a nice shine! I use the gray unitized disc on the heavier trim now, obviously I need to give it a go on the lighter gauges. Thanks again for the info, as always your work is stellar.

    https://caswellplating.com/green-rouge-j-52.html
    hard to say if the green rouge is like the stuff i'm using. i sent you a chunk to try out, along with an extra unitized wheel for a 4 inch grinder. obviously that wheel is too big for little trim but i thought since i had so many laying around i'd toss one in the box. i use the big ones for blending and radiusing, and it works great for aluminum too. the little 3m 2s fine rolocs are great for thin work as long as you watch how much heat you're putting in the part. i think you have the finesse to pull it off. practice on a scrap first though!
    i looked at the caswell plating site and it says that green rouge is a very dry compound for light scratches. i think mine is a little more aggressive as you can lean on it and remove some pretty deep stuff, then it diminishes and polishes out. interesting compound for sure. after you break in the working surface it is a little soft and loads the wheel quickly. i'll be interested to hear your take on it.
    b marler

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    hard to say if the green rouge is like the stuff i'm using. i sent you a chunk to try out, along with an extra unitized wheel for a 4 inch grinder. obviously that wheel is too big for little trim but i thought since i had so many laying around i'd toss one in the box. i use the big ones for blending and radiusing, and it works great for aluminum too. the little 3m 2s fine rolocs are great for thin work as long as you watch how much heat you're putting in the part. i think you have the finesse to pull it off. practice on a scrap first though!
    i looked at the caswell plating site and it says that green rouge is a very dry compound for light scratches. i think mine is a little more aggressive as you can lean on it and remove some pretty deep stuff, then it diminishes and polishes out. interesting compound for sure. after you break in the working surface it is a little soft and loads the wheel quickly. i'll be interested to hear your take on it.
    bmarler,

    This is outstanding and I can't thank you enough. I'm looking forward to giving your rouge a try. Like you I have plenty of scrap laying around. Going to try your method of leaning on it hard (with and without bluing stainless to get a feel for rouge), back off and go medium to light pressure. I love this kind of instruction on both product and technique, never too old...
    Thanks again my friend for all your troubles, I really appreciate it. As soon as it arrives I'll give it a go and get back with you. You are correct, the Caswell rouge is a bit dry until you well break into the surface of bar but I have not compared it too another product. Your demo looks more wet than what I am use too and I think that is going to make a big difference.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    hard to say if the green rouge is like the stuff i'm using. i sent you a chunk to try out, along with an extra unitized wheel for a 4 inch grinder. obviously that wheel is too big for little trim but i thought since i had so many laying around i'd toss one in the box. i use the big ones for blending and radiusing, and it works great for aluminum too. the little 3m 2s fine rolocs are great for thin work as long as you watch how much heat you're putting in the part. i think you have the finesse to pull it off. practice on a scrap first though!
    i looked at the caswell plating site and it says that green rouge is a very dry compound for light scratches. i think mine is a little more aggressive as you can lean on it and remove some pretty deep stuff, then it diminishes and polishes out. interesting compound for sure. after you break in the working surface it is a little soft and loads the wheel quickly. i'll be interested to hear your take on it.
    bmarler,

    Got your package a few days ago. I was hoping to try the rouge and wheel prior to getting back to you but am hung up on my doghouse assembly. Your green rouge is way different than my Caswell product. It quickly becomes obvious when comparing the 2 that yours is a lot better quality. I can't thank you enough for sending it and am anxious to give it a go. I'm really curious about the wheel you included, I may need some instruction on it as it is not the unitized wheels I am accustomed too.

  11. #41
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    Default doghouse assembly

    Started assembling my restored doghouse and components a few days ago and thought I would post a few pics. I changed the title of this thread to reflect my entire 36' build project as it just made more sense as opposed to posting separate threads randomly. It will take me awhile to get it up to date as it will pull time away from projects and builds that I really don't have, so please be patient.

    Doghouse restore,

    On many of the 1930's era cars, the doghouse is one of the most vital components in that they align the front half of front fenders and hood to the cab, both horizontally and vertically. They also provide a mounting surface for the grill and radiator. In the instance of a retro mod they may contain the trans cooler, AC condenser and cooling fan. When doing a custom modified street rod on these cars and wanting to retain the original sheet metal and chassis, this is where I almost always start the restore. Here are a few before and after pics of my restored doghouse, grill and custom components on my 36' chevy coupe project. I start by disassembling the doghouse and restoring the very damaged grill.

    20150113_140015.jpg

    1 grill.jpg



    Totally disassembled all components of the grill one bar at a time. Straighten the bars, frame and supporting backside slats, followed by sandblasting and reassembly.

    Sandblasted grill

    9m grill.jpg

    Grill back from plating shop. Triple chrome plating is very expensive so I do as much work as possible to reduce cost.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #42
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    Default Custom radiator

    Removed, restored and mounted the radiator support bracket from original radiator to new custom radiator. I had this radiator custom made that included the trans cooler for my 4L60e trainy, cooling fan and AC condenser for future Vintage Air hvac. Radiator is designed to handle over 600hp
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #43
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    Default Doghouse finish

    After restoring and painting doghouse shell, headlights with modern conversion (headlights mount to doghouse), and grill getting back from chrome plating I can start reassembly.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #44
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    Default Assembly

    Start of assembly
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #45
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    Love the colour. Red and chrome look so good together.
    Building my dream one piece at a time.

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