Quote Originally Posted by SFLAutoSurf View Post
I’m sure your right, I just don’t know enough to know what I don’t know. I’ve read everywhere I can think of to get a straight answer to what actually NEEDS to be done to have a viable surface to work on but it seems like a straight answer doesn’t exist. And the couple things I thought I was certain about have failed me so far.

For instance the rep says to go down to bare metal.. See comment below.
Experienced painters have told me not to do that since the truck has only been painted once, in a professional environment by professional painters (or machines maybe, I dunno) and hasn’t been messed with until now. I don’t see how my untrained ass is gonna do a better job priming and coating the truck than Toyota did. TRUE if you have a SOLID FOUNDATION (see below).

I’ve done very little body work on this thing, so I was under the impression I could just hit those areas with 2k and go to town. I didn’t know what a sealer was until maybe a week ago, lol. Let the PRIMER suffice if you even need one - see below.

With the hood, I know for a fact I sprayed entirely too heavy, probably didn’t time my coats well enough and then went back immediately, trying to cover the areas that hadn’t received proper coverage due to the paint appearing to be striped.. Either the nozzle was clogged or my pressure was too high or both. I’m not sure if that’s why the paint crinkled or if it was due to the rustoleum but I know that if I strip it down to factory base or even primer, both of those materials will be gone and I’ll be back to oem, mostly untouched materials. The assortment of different PRODUCTS caused your main problems.

Then again, like I said earlier every time I think I know what I’m doing with this thing, reality steps in and reminds me that reading and watching YouTube videos does not equal knowledge.
Gets confusing, for sure.

One thing is certain, however, don't add any more product to what's already on that hood. The main ingredient in doing this work on any panel of the vehicle boils down to SOLID FOUNDATION.

SO, with that said, what condition was the OEM hood in? IF in fact it was a solid panel with no paint flaws then you shouldn't have to chemically strip the hood. And by the way, if you DO use chemical stripper, it WILL go all the way down to the metal (and often is needed to). We cannot SEE or know what you are able to see & know.

Your alternative is sand it all down to get back to a SOLID FOUNDATION and judge from there. It's really not that much work although it may seem monumental right now.

So, sand it down to what you can effectively primer and/or paint on. Phil was right in that you really may not need a sealer. In many situations (perhaps NOT yours) with a solid OEM finish you DO NOT need primer. Just scuff the old and apply the new if over a solid foundation! Oh and NO BUZZ BOMB products.

Something else you said about you kept spraying because you had some stripes. Listen, spray each coat complete and walk away. No need to solely count the minutes because the feel is equally important as well as look. As for uneven application of the first or prior coats, you'll make that up on the next coats. DO NOT overload paint in an attempt to correct a problem which only results in TOO thick of a paint application that will only cause problems.

The other questionable is that gun you are using. That 1.7 hose is way too big, however, can be dialed back (maybe). Maybe test sprays would be in order with adjustments to get you in the right situation BEFORE spraying the vehicle parts. Try some old metal parts for practice.

Lastly, sealer has its place. Primer is needed for any bare metal or repair areas. Keep us posted.

Henry