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Thread: Show car quality paint for my 66 Chevelle SS

  1. #1
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    Feb 2006
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    Default Show car quality paint for my 66 Chevelle SS

    Hello all,
    I've been on this forum for quite a few years and I have learned a ton about body work and paint. I was able to paint 3 vehicles so far with everyones help and I really appreciate that.
    I've been using the UreKem paint from TheCoatingStore so far and have liked it and all have turned out great. These were mostly classic cars that I've taken to cruises and local shows.

    Currently I'm restoring a 1966 Chevelle SS to an all original condition. I'm at a point where I need to find a good paint brand as I need to start shooting the primer and primer/surfacer and I want to use the same brand throughout.

    I wanted to potentially show this car nationally so I want to find a paint that will match my original color which is Marina Blue but also be of the best quality I can afford. I know Urekem does have original GM colors but I didn't know of the quality for this type of restoration. This has been a 20 year off and on restoration for me so I am sparing no expense on NOS and original dated components so I want the paint to match that quality.

    Thanks for any opinions that you guys have

    Corey Vandiver

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chopperroxie View Post
    Hello all,
    I've been on this forum for quite a few years and I have learned a ton about body work and paint. I was able to paint 3 vehicles so far with everyones help and I really appreciate that.
    I've been using the UreKem paint from TheCoatingStore so far and have liked it and all have turned out great. These were mostly classic cars that I've taken to cruises and local shows.

    Currently I'm restoring a 1966 Chevelle SS to an all original condition. I'm at a point where I need to find a good paint brand as I need to start shooting the primer and primer/surfacer and I want to use the same brand throughout.

    I wanted to potentially show this car nationally so I want to find a paint that will match my original color which is Marina Blue but also be of the best quality I can afford. I know Urekem does have original GM colors but I didn't know of the quality for this type of restoration. This has been a 20 year off and on restoration for me so I am sparing no expense on NOS and original dated components so I want the paint to match that quality.

    Thanks for any opinions that you guys have

    Corey Vandiver
    As far as high quality goes I use Glasurit but it is expensive. If you use a single stage Glasurit (22 Line) be sure to use their hardener and reducer and your price will probably be around $1200 to $1500 for a gallon with the 2-1 hardener and if you use base/clear (55 Line) you'll probably spend a couple hundred more.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    As far as high quality goes I use Glasurit but it is expensive. If you use a single stage Glasurit (22 Line) be sure to use their hardener and reducer and your price will probably be around $1200 to $1500 for a gallon with the 2-1 hardener and if you use base/clear (55 Line) you'll probably spend a couple hundred more.
    Thanks Len. I was planning on doing a BC/CC since that is what I'm used to. I don't mind spending more on the paint since I'll be doing all the work myself.

    Is there a difference on how I would shoot a Glasurit as opposed to a cheaper brand? I guess I would need to practice before I shoot for real.
    Thanks
    Corey

  4. #4
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    Actually after researching Glasuit a bit it sounds like the Single Stage is the way to go for an original type paint job. It will be a solid color marina blue. Do you find this is the case?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopperroxie View Post
    Actually after researching Glasuit a bit it sounds like the Single Stage is the way to go for an original type paint job. It will be a solid color marina blue. Do you find this is the case?
    The Glasurit is a top of the line product. I have use the Glasurit many times but have no where near Lens experience and knowledge with that brand. I mostly use PPG's DBC top line products that I find is a comparable product both in quality and price. Both of these products provide easy coverage/hiding once the body work is brought to the level you are going for on your build. In terms of single stage vs 2 stage paint, I prefer the 2 stage for shooting high quality show cars as it gives me more versatility in the final finish. Think of it this way, you are not going to be shooting the same single stage product they used in 1966 unless you seek out a specialized product supplier for a 100 point car, so why not take advantage of modern products using the same Marina Blue in a 2 stage? I still use single stage now and then depending on the build, but I prefer the 2 stage for "show quality" builds as the versatility lets me build the CC to the level I want for color sanding to an absolute glass finish. You can do the same with single stage but there is a comfort in knowing the BC is locked in once the CC is applied. Here is an EXAMPLE of what I use on a high end show quality finish:

    1. Finished body work, dead straight panels and body work, ends in PPG DP50LF epoxy primer
    2. Sand Primer to 600-800g wet
    3. Apply 1 coat of PPG DAS302x sealer that achieves the proper G scale rating for top coat (G1-G7 rating)
    4. Apply 2-3 coats of base depending on TDS AND/OR what I observe on the panels coverage
    5. For show quality only I apply anywhere from 4 to 6 coats of PPG DCU2021 CC. In terms of true show quality I usually hit it with 5-6 coats of clear as it allows me to start color
    sanding with 800g wet to quickly take the clear flat without breaking through to BC, followed by 1200g, 1500g, 2500g. 5000g and 8000g wet hand blocking using guide coat.
    6. Polish out with Wizards compound and finish with 3M Perfect-it EX Ultrafine polish (06068)

    Obviously this is for a true high end show quality car with an extreme finish. You can adjust these steps to what you envision your ride too be.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopperroxie View Post
    Thanks Len. I was planning on doing a BC/CC since that is what I'm used to. I don't mind spending more on the paint since I'll be doing all the work myself.

    Is there a difference on how I would shoot a Glasurit as opposed to a cheaper brand? I guess I would need to practice before I shoot for real.
    Thanks
    Corey
    Glasurit sprays about the same as other brands.

    Quote Originally Posted by chopperroxie View Post
    Actually after researching Glasuit a bit it sounds like the Single Stage is the way to go for an original type paint job. It will be a solid color marina blue. Do you find this is the case?

    Yes if the original was a solid (non-metallic) color then single stage is probably your best bet.

  7. #7
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    Feb 2006
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    Chalfont, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    The Glasurit is a top of the line product. I have use the Glasurit many times but have no where near Lens experience and knowledge with that brand. I mostly use PPG's DBC top line products that I find is a comparable product both in quality and price. Both of these products provide easy coverage/hiding once the body work is brought to the level you are going for on your build. In terms of single stage vs 2 stage paint, I prefer the 2 stage for shooting high quality show cars as it gives me more versatility in the final finish. Think of it this way, you are not going to be shooting the same single stage product they used in 1966 unless you seek out a specialized product supplier for a 100 point car, so why not take advantage of modern products using the same Marina Blue in a 2 stage? I still use single stage now and then depending on the build, but I prefer the 2 stage for "show quality" builds as the versatility lets me build the CC to the level I want for color sanding to an absolute glass finish. You can do the same with single stage but there is a comfort in knowing the BC is locked in once the CC is applied. Here is an EXAMPLE of what I use on a high end show quality finish:

    1. Finished body work, dead straight panels and body work, ends in PPG DP50LF epoxy primer
    2. Sand Primer to 600-800g wet
    3. Apply 1 coat of PPG DAS302x sealer that achieves the proper G scale rating for top coat (G1-G7 rating)
    4. Apply 2-3 coats of base depending on TDS AND/OR what I observe on the panels coverage
    5. For show quality only I apply anywhere from 4 to 6 coats of PPG DCU2021 CC. In terms of true show quality I usually hit it with 5-6 coats of clear as it allows me to start color
    sanding with 800g wet to quickly take the clear flat without breaking through to BC, followed by 1200g, 1500g, 2500g. 5000g and 8000g wet hand blocking using guide coat.
    6. Polish out with Wizards compound and finish with 3M Perfect-it EX Ultrafine polish (06068)

    Obviously this is for a true high end show quality car with an extreme finish. You can adjust these steps to what you envision your ride too be.

    Thanks for the detailed replay, @ronf. You have a point about versatility with the BC/CC. I like the fact that I can put 4 or so coats of clear on and know that I can sand it dead smooth. That may be a better option since I am used to it.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chopperroxie View Post
    Thanks for the detailed replay, @ronf. You have a point about versatility with the BC/CC. I like the fact that I can put 4 or so coats of clear on and know that I can sand it dead smooth. That may be a better option since I am used to it.
    There is no right or wrong answer in the direction you want your build or paint to go, it's all about the build "YOU" want too achieve and never let anybody sway you from that decision. I am partial to the Chevelle as my first car and my first race car as a teenager back in 1973 was a 67' Chevelle SS (true 138 body code with mountain green paint) with the 375hp engine (67' Chevelle SS had either 325, 350 or 375hp in 67'). You have a rare Jem and need to treat it as such, my only suggestion is too retain as much of the original car as possible, paint and all.

  9. #9
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    Feb 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    There is no right or wrong answer in the direction you want your build or paint to go, it's all about the build "YOU" want too achieve and never let anybody sway you from that decision. I am partial to the Chevelle as my first car and my first race car as a teenager back in 1973 was a 67' Chevelle SS (true 138 body code with mountain green paint) with the 375hp engine (67' Chevelle SS had either 325, 350 or 375hp in 67'). You have a rare Jem and need to treat it as such, my only suggestion is too retain as much of the original car as possible, paint and all.
    Yes!, That is my goal. Everything on the car exactly as it came from the factory. It has been a rough and expensive ride so far with this Chevelle. It has the original 325 hp 396, muncie 4 speed and 373 posi rear. I got it 22 years ago and took it apart and decided I was way over my head as far as the bodywork so I got everything else done on it. After restoring a 72 IH Scout, a 71 Chevelle and an 84 Chevy Silverado, I have moved back onto my 66 and have spent this quarantine period doing all the metalwork. Replaced both full quarters, back trim panel repaired the original SS hood. Alot of panel alignment and gap work as well. When it gets warmer I'll move onto filler and primer work. I figure a spring and summer will be spent blocking and paint in the fall.

    Thanks for the help and encouragement!

  10. #10
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    Default 375 "horse"...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    There is no right or wrong answer in the direction you want your build or paint to go, it's all about the build "YOU" want too achieve and never let anybody sway you from that decision. I am partial to the Chevelle as my first car and my first race car as a teenager back in 1973 was a 67' Chevelle SS (true 138 body code with mountain green paint) with the 375hp engine (67' Chevelle SS had either 325, 350 or 375hp in 67'). You have a rare Jem and need to treat it as such, my only suggestion is too retain as much of the original car as possible, paint and all.
    The beefy '66 Chevelle SS was a screamer. The 375 HP engine this time was a left over 65 Corvette engine and had solid lifters. GM under rated the 375 HP engine. It was basically a 396/425Hp engine with slightly more restrictive exhaust manifolds. In 67 GM down rated the HP in the middle engine from 360 HP to 350 HP.

    Guess I might be revealing my age but you had to live in THAT ERA. Best production cars with best music on the radios. My buddy had the 66 Chevelle(s) and I had 65 GTO!

    Regardless who had what. He now owns a true car and is worth every bit of sweat & $$$ put into it. I wish only the best on everyone and their builds!

    Henry

  11. #11
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    Any "396" fans should find this interesting: GM LIED!

    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/chev...actory-rating/

    Henry

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Any "396" fans should find this interesting: GM LIED!

    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/chev...actory-rating/

    Henry
    Henry, haha, we all knew they lied but now we have proof!!

  13. #13
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    Default Yes they LIED

    Quote Originally Posted by Henry View Post
    Any "396" fans should find this interesting: GM LIED!

    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/chev...actory-rating/

    Henry
    Henry,

    This is absolutely one of the best Chevelle articles I have ever read. Can't thank you enough for posting the link! Talk about taking me back to my youth wow. Yes GM lied on hp, why? Because insurance would have categorized the Chevelle as an high HP Sports Car which created high insurance premiums. GM was trying to produce an affordable muscle car that the younger generation could afford and not be killed on insurance payments, all the while smoking their competition. In later years my 67' Chevelle ended up with a high lift cam, 671 blower and too many goodies to remember. Stock it ran mid to low 12's. After several years I ran in the modified class after running low 10's. What great memories I have from back then. I may be old now but feel very fortunate to have been in the middle of the muscle car era. Thank you again for the link.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronf View Post
    Henry,

    This is absolutely one of the best Chevelle articles I have ever read. Can't thank you enough for posting the link! Talk about taking me back to my youth wow. Yes GM lied on hp, why? Because insurance would have categorized the Chevelle as an high HP Sports Car which created high insurance premiums. GM was trying to produce an affordable muscle car that the younger generation could afford and not be killed on insurance payments, all the while smoking their competition. In later years my 67' Chevelle ended up with a high lift cam, 671 blower and too many goodies to remember. Stock it ran mid to low 12's. After several years I ran in the modified class after running low 10's. What great memories I have from back then. I may be old now but feel very fortunate to have been in the middle of the muscle car era. Thank you again for the link.
    Ahh, you young guys think you are old, I had a 62 409 w/ two quads. I'd wait until all my buddies were hanging out in front of the malt shop and I'd lightem up just to hear them cheer.

  15. #15
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    Sep 2020
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    Default '68 Z28

    Yes, you guys brought back my youth as well!

    Thanks for posting, totally enjoy reading all this and feel the need to share a tidbit of my muscle car fun!

    Back in the mid 70s I had 2 68 Camaros, a 68 Z28 & a 68 SS/396, man I had fun with those cars. We did lots of street racing and burnouts in front of High school back in the day (remember the bleach), definitely had my share of trouble in those cars. Back then they were a dime a dozen although the Z28s were a little harder to come by. The Z was by far my favorite and it flat scooted. My SS/396 Camaro had lots of torque and could pull out tree stumps, but the Z28 would clean its clock in street racing. I loved that car, sounded like a real mechanical machine, you know, the clickety-clack of the 30/30 solid lifter Duntov, along with the 202 camel hump heads that thing screamed RPM.

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