New trunk lid with a sunk area.

[Jsand160]

I bought a new AMD trunk lid about 8 years ago, and it had a large low or sink area that I didn’t do anything with at the time. I used some body filler to get it level and painted over it. 8 years later I am prepping my car correctly for a professional paint job. The underside of the trunk lid has a frame and braces and is not possible to get to the backside of the low area.
What would be the approach to fixing this low area? Weld something on to the top that I can pull up?
Cut the back side away to get to the backside?

I have run a straight edge over this lid and I can’t find any high areas. When I block sanded it before, there wasn’t any high areas either.

I also thought about cutting a large enough hole on the backside frame, that I could get a tool inside to pry up the low area, but it is still going to be tough to stretch the metal if I can’t get to it.

Any ideas?

[Len]

I bought a new AMD trunk lid about 8 years ago, and it had a large low or sink area that I didn’t do anything with at the time. I used some body filler to get it level and painted over it. 8 years later I am prepping my car correctly for a professional paint job. The underside of the trunk lid has a frame and braces and is not possible to get to the backside of the low area.
What would be the approach to fixing this low area? Weld something on to the top that I can pull up?
Cut the back side away to get to the backside?

I have run a straight edge over this lid and I can’t find any high areas. When I block sanded it before, there wasn’t any high areas either.

I also thought about cutting a large enough hole on the backside frame, that I could get a tool inside to pry up the low area, but it is still going to be tough to stretch the metal if I can’t get to it.

Any ideas?

If I had it here I would use a stud welder to pull that low spot up and probably tap around it to help keep it up. I would still have surface irregularities that I would level using filler.

LINK

[Jsand160]

If I had it here I would use a stud welder to pull that low spot up and probably tap around it to help keep it up. I would still have surface irregularities that I would level using filler.

LINK

That is probably my best option. I really don’t want to cut out the backside frame and have to weld back in. If I was to come up with studs to weld on, how close would you weld them? The area is probably 7” to 10” across, and indented about a 1/4”.

[Len]

That is probably my best option. I really don’t want to cut out the backside frame and have to weld back in. If I was to come up with studs to weld on, how close would you weld them? The area is probably 7” to 10” across, and indented about a 1/4”.

The problem with just using a welder to weld something to the surface is that you could do more damage to the surface. The tool that I posted uses little pins that can be welded without using much heat and removed easily using a pair of diagonal cutters. Before I'd mig weld metal to the surface I'd probably drill some 1/8" holes and use a hook-type puller to pull out the dent. The set shown below cost $15 plus shipping.

[Phil V]

What kind of car are we talking about here ? I looked online and deck lids price range through AMD from $159 to $499.

Why even mess with a screwed up deck lid ? Why not just buy a new one ? Or find a good used rust free deck lid ?

[Jsand160]

What kind of car are we talking about here ? I looked online and deck lids price range through AMD from $159 to $499.

Why even mess with a screwed up deck lid ? Why not just buy a new one ? Or find a good used rust free deck lid ?

I have had that thought, however this is what I received. A new trunk lid that had an uneven surface. Shipping is very hard on these body parts, and I don’t want to go through this again. I would rather spend the $100 for a stud gun and learn how to fix it then to take my chances with another $500 lid.

[Phil V]

I have had that thought, however this is what I received. A new trunk lid that had an uneven surface. Shipping is very hard on these body parts, and I don’t want to go through this again. I would rather spend the $100 for a stud gun and learn how to fix it then to take my chances with another $500 lid.

Ya, I hear you. Chasing that dent can be a real strain on a persons patience though. Either way I'm sure I would repair it too.

[tommie.b]

Jsand where are you located ( what state)

[Henry]

I have had that thought, however this is what I received. A new trunk lid that had an uneven surface. Shipping is very hard on these body parts, and I don’t want to go through this again. I would rather spend the $100 for a stud gun and learn how to fix it then to take my chances with another $500 lid.

You have to know, we all want to be there and feel this 'indentation'. Anyway, from what you've said it sounds like a low spot rather than a dent. Does the area "OIL CAN"; bounce in and out?

I keep thinking of a dent plunger suction tool. Thoughts are, if you could use something like that and hold the indentation UP and tap the surrounding metal around it down, you may well correct by tightening the area and low spot back to where it belongs.

If you follow - hard to explain - easy to do! Just another thought.

Henry

[Len]

You have to know, we all want to be there and feel this 'indentation'. Anyway, from what you've said it sounds like a low spot rather than a dent. Does the area "OIL CAN"; bounce in and out?

I keep thinking of a dent plunger suction tool. Thoughts are, if you could use something like that and hold the indentation UP and tap the surrounding metal around it down, you may well correct by tightening the area and low spot back to where it belongs.

If you follow - hard to explain - easy to do! Just another thought.

Henry

[Henry]

Same principal but more like:

pluger.jpg

Henry

[Jsand160]

You have to know, we all want to be there and feel this 'indentation'. Anyway, from what you've said it sounds like a low spot rather than a dent. Does the area "OIL CAN"; bounce in and out?

I keep thinking of a dent plunger suction tool. Thoughts are, if you could use something like that and hold the indentation UP and tap the surrounding metal around it down, you may well correct by tightening the area and low spot back to where it belongs.

If you follow - hard to explain - easy to do! Just another thought.

Henry

it was a dent. When I received it through shipping, it had a nice destroyed area on the shipping box as well. Unfortunately it was left at my door step without a signature, and the independent shop I bought it through wouldn’t help me out. If I had bought it straight through AMD, I know they would have been far more gentle and kind in their approach to helping out.

[Jsand160]

Jsand where are you located ( what state)

Indianapolis, IN

[Ronf]

I bought a new AMD trunk lid about 8 years ago, and it had a large low or sink area that I didn’t do anything with at the time. I used some body filler to get it level and painted over it. 8 years later I am prepping my car correctly for a professional paint job. The underside of the trunk lid has a frame and braces and is not possible to get to the backside of the low area.
What would be the approach to fixing this low area? Weld something on to the top that I can pull up?
Cut the back side away to get to the backside?

I have run a straight edge over this lid and I can’t find any high areas. When I block sanded it before, there wasn’t any high areas either.

I also thought about cutting a large enough hole on the backside frame, that I could get a tool inside to pry up the low area, but it is still going to be tough to stretch the metal if I can’t get to it.

Any ideas?

I can't tell you the number of times I have cut away the backside bracing of a trunk lid for proper custom repair. Cutting the back side supports takes patients as you must tack in lateral bracing as you go to ensure trunk lid stays true. However, once problem is exposed it allows for easy repair and if you have to weld on the lid it gives you adequate space to run a copper faced backed heat sink for welding. To cut bracing just use a thin bladed 2" cutter and remove section, really isn't hard too do. IF you go this route be sure and make cardboard or construction board templates of trunk lid prior to any cut AND brace as you go. Several times I have mocked up, welded and braced the lids on my welding table to retained the true body line. Any way you can provide a pic of top and underside of trunk lid? Picture tells all.

[tommie.b]

Indianapolis, IN

Just asking and hope near PA as I know of a guy who could fix the lid for you.He is the best metal man ever. Like Ronf said cut the inner brace away but you need the skills to do this.