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Thread: Using picklex and or zero rust on frame questions

  1. #1

    Default Using picklex and or zero rust on frame questions

    Just finished up getting cab and doors,fenders and hood in epoxy and 2k primer and moving on to working on the frame on a 1970 chevy k20. Normal surface rust and plan to use wire wheel to clean it up. Will be boxing the frame so welding will need to be done. I read that picklex can be welded on. How will zero rust perform when it's been applied to the inside of the frame channel prior to welding in the sections to box the frame in?
    Do I need to us picklex if using zero rust?

    Thanks again to all who make this forum great for the rookies

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by rb69 View Post
    Just finished up getting cab and doors,fenders and hood in epoxy and 2k primer and moving on to working on the frame on a 1970 chevy k20. Normal surface rust and plan to use wire wheel to clean it up. Will be boxing the frame so welding will need to be done. I read that picklex can be welded on. How will zero rust perform when it's been applied to the inside of the frame channel prior to welding in the sections to box the frame in?
    Do I need to us picklex if using zero rust?

    Thanks again to all who make this forum great for the rookies
    Picklex and Zero Rust do two different things.... Picklex is used after the loose rust is removed to convert and stabilize the surface then it's allowed to dry then scuffed and the Zero Rust is applied for long lasting protection. Zero Rust is normally applied over clean or treated metal.

    Picklex was originally invented as a welding aid and will help your welds bite better and flow into a smoother surface.


  3. #3
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    Jan 2021
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    Question about picklex20. I thought it was supposed to convert and stop rust from forming? I wire wheeled this area. Then blasted it with aluminum oxide. Then immediately sprayed it with picklex 20, rubbed it in with red Scotch Brite pad. Let sit for one minute and then wiped it dry. Why after one week sitting in my heated garage Do I see specs of orange rust???

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/WM5oPFcxFnACb8269

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo57 View Post
    Question about picklex20. I thought it was supposed to convert and stop rust from forming? I wire wheeled this area. Then blasted it with aluminum oxide. Then immediately sprayed it with picklex 20, rubbed it in with red Scotch Brite pad. Let sit for one minute and then wiped it dry. Why after one week sitting in my heated garage Do I see specs of orange rust???

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/WM5oPFcxFnACb8269
    It sounds like you did all the right things but it may not have gotten far enough into the rusted area. Try doing it again and make sure it converts those areas. Removing the loose rust then working it into the divots so it contacts all of the rust is what makes it work. It normally either makes the rust disappear or turns it black. Make sure you apply a primer that contains NO ACID.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2021
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    That's the thing. I just did the exact same process I did with the picklex20. But this time I used Eastwood fast etch and I can see it turned the rust black. So does Eastwood work better than picklex20 for killing rust? All I know is a spent a small fortune to get picklex20 to Canada between shipping. Exchange rate and taxes. Over $300 for a gallon

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo57 View Post
    That's the thing. I just did the exact same process I did with the picklex20. But this time I used Eastwood fast etch and I can see it turned the rust black. So does Eastwood work better than picklex20 for killing rust? All I know is a spent a small fortune to get picklex20 to Canada between shipping. Exchange rate and taxes. Over $300 for a gallon
    I've probably used a half dozen metal treatments and I've never used anything that works as good as Picklex but I haven't used Eastwood's treatment.

  7. #7
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    Default Hmmmmm....

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I've probably used a half dozen metal treatments and I've never used anything that works as good as Picklex but I haven't used Eastwood's treatment.
    Like anyone, I float around the web more as a learning tool than shopping. That said, I have found that Eastwood nor TCP Global and many others DO NOT make anything and most of what they claim to fame is Made in China. I have NOTHING against these companies!

    Now, I'm not criticizing ANY company, however, I won't give them credit for something that they really had no part in other than a good purchasing department and selling capabilities.

    Picklex or Metal Prep by (DuPont MANY years ago) were good products and we know who made them.

    Again, sorry, not trying to get off track, just do not want members to bypass a "name brand, well established company who actually makes, TESTS and sells an intended product" for another company with a good sales rapport. Hope everyone understands the point here and thanks!

    Henry

  8. #8
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    Jan 2021
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    Here's my next question after metal prepping with picklex 20. Is there any benefits to using Zero rust on the heavily corroded areas before epoxy primer? Or just go straight to epoxy primer? Was going to use zero rust inside my doors. Is it worth under th roof or just going straight to epoxy since I'm doing the entire car in epoxy?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo57 View Post
    Here's my next question after metal prepping with picklex 20. Is there any benefits to using Zero rust on the heavily corroded areas before epoxy primer? Or just go straight to epoxy primer? Was going to use zero rust inside my doors. Is it worth under th roof or just going straight to epoxy since I'm doing the entire car in epoxy?
    zero rust is a phenolic modified paint and is a really good choice for the first coating over rust treated metal. i would go a different way if it were an exterior panel, but anything frame/chassis/interior metal will benefit from this type of paint. i don't put epoxy over it though, never tried it. if i were going to, i'd be sure it was completely cured before covering it as solvents in other coatings may soften it. and i'd try a test panel first.
    b marler

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