TheCoatingStore.com

Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Wet DA Sander

  1. #1

    Default Wet DA Sander

    I have a Baxter DA palm sander can I use it for wet sanding as well. I think I would only have to get a hook/Loop backing plate for it. Would be me 1st time using a DA for cutting CC any tips? Thanks V

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    43,060

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vza View Post
    I have a Baxter DA palm sander can I use it for wet sanding as well. I think I would only have to get a hook/Loop backing plate for it. Would be me 1st time using a DA for cutting CC any tips? Thanks V
    I don't use a machine to level my paint, I normally use a block and fine wet sanding paper before I buff.

  3. #3

    Default

    OK ...so I will stick to sanding by hand then...V

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    43,060

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vza View Post
    OK ...so I will stick to sanding by hand then...V
    If you have large areas of orange peel and you have a 6" palm sander with a 3/32" orbit you can use it with some 3M Trizact 1500 to 5000 grit wet sanding disks to help level the peel on areas that don't have much of a shape but without the right sander and disks should do it by hand so you don't damage the paint.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    16,305

    Default Hmmmmmmm...

    Quote Originally Posted by Vza View Post
    I have a Baxter DA palm sander can I use it for wet sanding as well. I think I would only have to get a hook/Loop backing plate for it. Would be me 1st time using a DA for cutting CC any tips? Thanks V
    Colorsanding is what we do AFTER final paint is finished. Most often over clear coat to remove orange peel finish or dust/dirt prior to buffing to obtain a high gloss, deep shine.

    QUESTION: Is that what you are trying to do? Or are you looking to level an unfinished surface?

    Sorry, I never heard of a Baxter DA palm sander (not to say it's not appropriate). Below, I posted a link to one of the better and widely used palm sanders used in/by the industry. Have a look and check out the specs:

    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=T2

    Always make sure you have enough clear on the surface TO BE sanded to prevent sand throughs and loss of UV protection. Keep us posted.

    Henry

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    27,816

    Default

    That DA sander you have is from Harbor Freight and it has a handle on it like the old DA's. I'm not dissing HF DA's, they have a orbital palm sander that I'm sure is a copy of the Dynabrade palm sander. You will need a hood and loop backing pad AND an interface pad (like 3/16" foam) and the 1200 grit to 1500 grit hookit discs (velcro type) discs attach to the interface pad. The need for the interface pad is so edge of the backing pad doesn't make divits in the paint. If you want to use a palm sander to try and cure imperfections like sanding scratches then that is the wrong tool. It's not for leveling an uneven surface. You can use it for fine orange peel and for fine dust nibs. Not a bunch of trash in the paint.

    Hand wet sanding is the best way to go. But it IS a bunch of manual labor if you have a whole car to do. I do use the orbital palm sander (Dynabrade, and the Airvantage that Len sells) both excellent sanders for wetsanding panels that just need light wetsanding. Us a black rubber squeege to remove the water (with a tiny bit of dish washing soap) to see what kind of progress your making. There is a thin line between too much wetsanding and not enough wet sanding. I recommend hand sanding dust nibs. The orbital palm sander with the interface pad is a little too soft for sanding down dust nibs.

    One last thing, most regular DA's have a much wider "throw" (wider orbit) and are not well suited for wetsanding. You want a round disc orbital palm sander with a smaller orbit like 3/32". 1/8" works well too. NO 1/4" or 5/16"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    olympia,wa
    Posts
    1,197

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vza View Post
    I have a Baxter DA palm sander can I use it for wet sanding as well. I think I would only have to get a hook/Loop backing plate for it. Would be me 1st time using a DA for cutting CC any tips? Thanks V
    how do you like that sander? it's definitely a better sander than i remember hf selling before. i thought they only sold the old timey palm da. they have a geared version too, i wonder how well it works? geared sanders are really great for fast removal of old finishes.
    for color sanding though, the airvantage is a great value. i bought one from lens store and love it. if you're going to do a lot of paintwork you may want to budget one in sometime. short throw sanders area completely different animal.
    there's a few threads on colorsanding and leveling clear, do a search and you'll find some good stuff.
    b marler

  8. #8

    Default

    My clear actually went on pretty smooth...prob needs some leveling and a fair amount of dust ...did outside with falling leaves and intermittent breeze. I only used the sander to go thru finish I needed to bondo...took it off easily w 320 grit. Its a small hardtop ...i will block it by hand.v

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    43,060

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vza View Post
    My clear actually went on pretty smooth...prob needs some leveling and a fair amount of dust ...did outside with falling leaves and intermittent breeze. I only used the sander to go thru finish I needed to bondo...took it off easily w 320 grit. Its a small hardtop ...i will block it by hand.v
    I've never had any luck sanding out dust nibs with an orbital sander, the only thing I've found that works is a small hard block with sandpaper wrapped around it. In most cases I use one of the run blockers on dust nibs and runs.


    After I sand out the nibs with a small block I go over the surface with a DA sander prior to buffing.
    Last edited by Len; 11-15-2020 at 07:56 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    27,816

    Default

    [QUOTE=Len;411310]I've never had any luck sanding out dust nibs with an orbital sander, the only thing I've found that works is a small hard block with sandpaper wrapped around it. In most cases I use one of the run blockers on dust nibs and runs.

    [CENTER][URL="http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Co de=MOT-RB3&Category_Code=T2"]
    LINK

    I have a couple of these sanders that I used once in a while. They DO work pretty well for block sanding dust nibs in clear coat and for fine to medium orange peel. They are specifically designed for wet sanding. If you look close at the picture you will see an inlet for air and an inlet for water. You can control the amount of water you want the sander to dispense. Don't confuse that sander with one of those crappy jitterbug sanders. The wet sander in the picture is considerably larger (1/3 sheet)than a jitterbug and the wet sander is inline motion, not orbital like a jitterbug. To be honest I have never found a good use for a jitterbug for doing auto body or paint work.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,114

    Default

    Wet sanding is a thing of the past. Use 3M 260L finishing film, Starcke Platinum Film discs or best of all Eagle's Tolecut or Super Assilex. This will get you up to P2000 which all modern compounds can quickly get to a mirror finish. If you want to speed the process up even more use Trizact P3000 and P5000 MOIST on a DA and this will actually give you a very shinny finish. Abranet by Mirka can accomplish the same result.

    The Bauer sander you mention is electric. Water and electricity don't do well together. (I think it called "electrocution") which most would agree is a bad thing. That's why air sanders are used.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    43,060

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis N. Schmidt View Post
    Wet sanding is a thing of the past. Use 3M 260L finishing film, Starcke Platinum Film discs or best of all Eagle's Tolecut or Super Assilex. This will get you up to P2000 which all modern compounds can quickly get to a mirror finish. If you want to speed the process up even more use Trizact P3000 and P5000 MOIST on a DA and this will actually give you a very shinny finish. Abranet by Mirka can accomplish the same result.

    The Bauer sander you mention is electric. Water and electricity don't do well together. (I think it called "electrocution") which most would agree is a bad thing. That's why air sanders are used.
    Dennis where have you been, we miss you around here.

    Anyway, I use almost all Trizact wet from 1500 up to 3000 and you're right it has a gloss when I'm finished and it takes very little buffing to get the finish I want.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •