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Thread: New member resto

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    12

    Default New member resto

    Hello all. I am new to the forum and pretty new to the hobby. I am restoring a 1969 Ford Cobra formal roof 428 SCJ. I don't know if anybody would be interested but I have been thru a huge learning curve so thought I could post some of my experiences and things that have worked great and some things that worked out not so great and I am always looking for advice. As of 10 years ago I didn't even know how to change the oil in a car and thought I could buy a muscle car and farm the resto work out. Well, you can imagine how that worked out-after having it sit in a shop for 3 years, I rented a Uhaul van to pick up what was left of my car. It was in a thousand pieces and a bare frame and I didn't have the slightest clue how to start. After 6 months of feeling sorry for myself and my wife complaining about the parts of my car piled up in the dining room I decided to watch a youtube video and put the flywheel onto the transmission. Then I figured out how to put on the clutch and one thing led to another and eventually I got the entire car put together. After that I decided that if I ever got another car, I would do EVERYTHING myself. So with this new car I have reached the point where the car is ready for paint so I have been teaching myself how to do it. This is the first time I have ever done paint prep and paint so I am VERY much a newbie. I want to do the best job possible with the limited resources and knowledge that a hobbyist has. I don't do paint for a living so investing tens of thousands of dollars into tools I may never use again just doesn't make sense so maybe someone in a position like me may find this helpful. Here is a pic of the car when I bought it and another how it looked back in the day. The pics make it look nice but it was a complete, nondriving mess. The paint was some 1 stage junk with drips everywhere along with fish eyes and pitting on nearly every horizontal panel. There wasn't a square inch without defects.I would have liked to have just painted over it but that was not an option.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    12

    Default

    First thing, I pulled the engine and trans and diff and suspension and started rebuilding/restoring them. I got to work removing the paint. Best thing I found to remove the paint is the big beast in the pic with the paint remover pad. The pad worked great. The honeycomb type pattern prevented any heat building up on the panels so they wouldn't warp. Paint remover chemicals were too slow and messy and regular sanders generated too much heat.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    12

    Default

    First coat epoxy primer. Before that I had to figure out how to get moisture out of the line. I have a single stage compressor so the heat and water buildup is really high. All that water going into the primer would be a disaster. I came up with a solution that so far has worked really well. I bought an Ingersol rand air dryer for about $500. The problem was that the ones made for single stage compressors can cost a few thousand dollars. They lower the humidity to the equvalent of -40 degree air but a compressor like mine can have temps in excess of 200 degrees so small dryers like mine can't get the temps down enough by themselves. So to drop the temp and get out some moisture I made a kind of radiator out of copper tubing. There is something like an "L" and an "M" copper tubing-you want to use the stronger one (don't remember which letter was which) to handle the high air pressure. I cut and soddered the pipe (had to learn how to do that too) and put drain cocks at the bottom of each loop. The pipe radiates heat very quickly and cools the air. I can open the stop cocks and the compressed air shoots out the water that has condensed at the bottom(it is a LOT of water) so the air getting to the dryer is already cooled significantly and pretty dry so the small dryer I have has no problem whatsoever completely drying the air. I also help it out by turning on the compressor the day before so the air in the compressor has a chance to cool down. I checked the pressure at the end of the tubing and there was less than a 5 psi drop. It has worked terrifically. Even when I sprayed sprayable body filler at 35 psi over the entire car and the compressor was cycling frequently, the dryer had no problem dealing with it. There is an indicator on the dryer that states how much of a load it is dealing with and it has never gone above the lowest level. The other neat thing is, I have the radiator hooked up so I can easily bypass it if I want and it takes up no floor space whatsoever.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,289

    Default

    Hi Roger, Welcome Aboard.

    It looks like you're doing an excellent job on the car and your shop. If there's anything we can help you with let us know.

    Do you know who makes the pad you used to strip off the paint?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    30,601

    Default

    I'm impressed. I know professional bodymen who couldn't do what you have done. I don't know what you do for a living but you're a natural for this kind of work. And I echo what Len said, if you need any help feel free to ask on the forum or PM me.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    19,118

    Default Really !!!

    I'll echo what Len & Phil said! I'll also add, the first time I got water droplets on what I was painting is when I started using those bubble water filters at my gun. Keep a couple two packs handy as they do work.

    Hey, that car looked good (from here) in red so good luck in your work. YES, it's hard with many variables but so worth it in the end result. Hats off and keep us posted. OH, we're here 24/7!

    Henry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Wow! Thanks for all the encouragement. Maybe I am not quite as dumb as I thought! I will find that pad for you, Len. I actually have a real important question for you guys. I am also going to post the question in the "general" section as it is gets more views and I am hoping to get an answer very soon as I am planning to paint tomorrow. I am actually a lot further along than my last post. I have already done the body filler repair, the sprayable body filler, block sanding and 2k urethane with 400 grit sanding and I purchased the color coat today. I am use 2 stage PPG. I am keeping the original solid Ford candy apple red. My question is this-the shop I bought the paint from suggested a epoxy sealant which I agree to as there are spots where I sanded thru the 2k and the underlying sprayable body filler is exposed and a couple of very small (less than an inch) spots where I got to metal and I don't want to risk any adhesion problem or color variation as the sprayable filler is a different shade than the 2k. I am using the JB basecoat for the color and the tech sheet suggests JP37 as the epoxy primer or the JP315 as a sealer. The paint dealer really pushed the EPX epoxy primer diluted 1:1:1 or 1:1:1/2 to be used as a sealant. So what I have now is the DCU 2021 glosscoat (Concept Urethane clear), the JB color coat(Shopline), and the EPX primer/sealer. Does that sound right? I am nervous using the EPX as it isn't listed as compatible with the basecoat. I have time to run to another shop if any of this sounds off.

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