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Thread: Newbie Poject

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    10

    Default Newbie Poject

    I have a '15 Lincoln MKX with a rear collision as seen in the pics. It drives well with a very slight pull to the right which I think is due to either a low tire or needing an alignment. The frame seems ok, there is a slight difference in the door gap on the drivers side backseat door which I improved by pulling the bent impact bar. All the other gaps are fine.

    There is damage in the rear panel. Some wrinkling damage in the floor pan by the bumper where the tire sits. I found a donor car (Ford Edge) in a pull apart in good rear shape.

    My question is how to proceed from here?
    1. Remove the rear body panel then try and pull out the wrinkled floor pan? Then weld in the new rear body panel?
    2. Cut out the rear body panel with the wrinkled part of the floor pan and weld in a replacement? (Red marks)
    3. Try and pull it out more before choice of #1 or #2? The drivers side is a little over one inch pushed in compared to the passenger side.
    4. ?

    The drivers frame rail looks like its bent. However on close inspection I can detect little difference from the passenger side, the sheet metal around the drivers side is bent and pointed inward making it appearIMG_5804.jpgIMG_5816.jpg to be bent.

    I guess that enough as the old saying goes a pic is worth 1000 words. Here are two (the red marks is where I thought about cutting).

    Finally don't answer with "take it to a body shop", I bought this vehicle as is, I'm retired with a modest income and there is no insurance payout.

    Thank you in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    45,326

    Default

    If I were doing it I'd probably put some clamps on that cross-member and pull it out before cutting it off. That would help align the rails.

    Be sure to do a good welding job when replacing that cross-member, I would probably tack it in then plate both sides for added strength.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    10

    Default Thank you

    ...for the advice.


    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If I were doing it I'd probably put some clamps on that cross-member and pull it out before cutting it off. That would help align the rails.

    Be sure to do a good welding job when replacing that cross-member, I would probably tack it in then plate both sides for added strength.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    19,146

    Default Gotta pull...

    Quote Originally Posted by Checkov View Post
    I have a '15 Lincoln MKX with a rear collision as seen in the pics. It drives well with a very slight pull to the right which I think is due to either a low tire or needing an alignment. The frame seems ok, there is a slight difference in the door gap on the drivers side backseat door which I improved by pulling the bent impact bar. All the other gaps are fine.

    There is damage in the rear panel. Some wrinkling damage in the floor pan by the bumper where the tire sits. I found a donor car (Ford Edge) in a pull apart in good rear shape.

    My question is how to proceed from here?
    1. Remove the rear body panel then try and pull out the wrinkled floor pan? Then weld in the new rear body panel?
    2. Cut out the rear body panel with the wrinkled part of the floor pan and weld in a replacement? (Red marks)
    3. Try and pull it out more before choice of #1 or #2? The drivers side is a little over one inch pushed in compared to the passenger side.
    4. ?

    The drivers frame rail looks like its bent. However on close inspection I can detect little difference from the passenger side, the sheet metal around the drivers side is bent and pointed inward making it appearIMG_5804.jpgIMG_5816.jpg to be bent.

    I guess that enough as the old saying goes a pic is worth 1000 words. Here are two (the red marks is where I thought about cutting).

    Finally don't answer with "take it to a body shop", I bought this vehicle as is, I'm retired with a modest income and there is no insurance payout.

    Thank you in advance.
    Since the car is drivable, take it to a shop with a frame machine. If you know of one, fine. If not, ask around. You need to get that pulled to ensure your new parts can match up properly. We could get that (what we can see) pulled for around $500. Then you could cut and end up accurate. There's such a thing called "metal stretch" and it is known to travel elsewhere depending on the force of the hit. Keep us posted.

    Henry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default Body Shop

    At first Henry I was going to dismiss your idea. But a body shop up the street about 2 miles said they could do it for about $450. Since I'd have to spend about $100 for some pulling clamps anyway and it has some potential as a valuable vehicle I think I will have them pull this one.

    I can always do my own pull on a cheaper one as my first later.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    19,146

    Default Really !!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Checkov View Post
    At first Henry I was going to dismiss your idea. But a body shop up the street about 2 miles said they could do it for about $450. Since I'd have to spend about $100 for some pulling clamps anyway and it has some potential as a valuable vehicle I think I will have them pull this one.

    I can always do my own pull on a cheaper one as my first later.
    So glad to hear it and the price sounds great as well. Of course you could pull that yourself with several 'jury rigged' setups (I've done it years ago as well) but a good frame person will pull it back to specs of where it should be.

    One of the worst things any of us can do is an over pull, be it on a dent to heavy damage as you have. Good going and keep us posted (we're here 24/7).

    Henry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Cool Pulled, cost more than I wanted

    I may be looking for another shop. He quoted me 400-500 and charged 575. Work seems good as far as I can tell. I've got another body shop 2 miles from my house the other direction...
    Anyway I realize $75 isn't everything I might still use him but I guess I should shop around next time and compare both of them.

    I was advised to cut out the entire piece (rear panel) but I'm not going to do that. My reasons are the pull is straight and the frame rails were never bent much at all if any. To cut it out I would have to cut through the frame rails as far as I can tell and then reweld very much. I'm not a qualified/trained welder so I can't see how doing that would give me something stronger or even as strong as a solid original frame rails and panels.

    So I spent about 3 hours yesterday drilling out spot welds and removed the sheet metal covering off of the rear piece I cut off. I'm going to spot weld it back over the damaged piece. It should be even stronger than the original.

    The first pic is after the pull, the guy who did the pull said the vehicle wasn't even "hurt that bad". He is probably comparing it to other wrecks they have had.

    In the second pic you can see where I've hung the sheet metal "overlay?" Of the new junkyard panel over the damaged one. It is ONLY a rough fit so far, I still have to trim it, that's why it looks crooked in the photos. It's not quite longed up with the bolts on that side and the edges still stick out too far.

    Thanks for the advice I need it 👶.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default No idea why these pics are upside down

    They show correctly in my computer.IMG_5916.jpg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default Trying to get a pic of the frame repair

    See if this one works


    IMG_5915.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    45,326

    Default

    It appears that the R/H rail may be fine but the L/H rail is probably bent. If it were in my shop we would order a new back panel then remove the old panel and hold the new one up to see how the L/H rail needs to be pulled. It appears that the L/H rail is pulled toward the center and may also need to be pulled back. Looking at the L/H rail from underneath any wrinkles may tell you if it needs to be pulled back.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    10

    Default So for $575

    They didn't even pull it out properly?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default Did a lot of measuring and some work this morning

    I think it's going to work as is just fine.

    I took two meter sticks and taped two nails with the same distance sticking off the side about two feet apart. I inserted the two sticks inside the rails with 1/2 the sticks sticking out. Both sticks were positioned so the nails barely touched the inside on the same side of the rails. I also crawled under the car with a light and could find no discernible ripples or drinks in the metal of the rail or around the rail.

    The results were they were almost exactly the same with the LH being just barely off pointing inwards. I don't think it's enough to make a difference. Also the car drove fine on the way back from the body shop without any pulling to the sides.

    Next I cut the new piece and did a little hammering to pull in or push out sheet metal. Then I bolted it down at the bottom where the impact bar will go and used two vice grips to clamp it on the top. When it finished it looks straight everywhere to me.

    I will have 56 weld points and 6 nuts where the impact bar is attached.

    Hopefully the stupid pic will be right side up. If not I will add a second one as apology.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default It's apple products you have to have the sound control bottom

    I found out, why I don't know?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NORTH JUAREZ
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Checkov View Post
    I have a '15 Lincoln MKX with a rear collision as seen in the pics. It drives well with a very slight pull to the right which I think is due to either a low tire or needing an alignment. The frame seems ok, there is a slight difference in the door gap on the drivers side backseat door which I improved by pulling the bent impact bar. All the other gaps are fine.

    There is damage in the rear panel. Some wrinkling damage in the floor pan by the bumper where the tire sits. I found a donor car (Ford Edge) in a pull apart in good rear shape.

    My question is how to proceed from here?
    1. Remove the rear body panel then try and pull out the wrinkled floor pan? Then weld in the new rear body panel?
    2. Cut out the rear body panel with the wrinkled part of the floor pan and weld in a replacement? (Red marks)
    3. Try and pull it out more before choice of #1 or #2? The drivers side is a little over one inch pushed in compared to the passenger side.
    4. ?

    The drivers frame rail looks like its bent. However on close inspection I can detect little difference from the passenger side, the sheet metal around the drivers side is bent and pointed inward making it appearIMG_5804.jpgIMG_5816.jpg to be bent.

    I guess that enough as the old saying goes a pic is worth 1000 words. Here are two (the red marks is where I thought about cutting).

    Finally don't answer with "take it to a body shop", I bought this vehicle as is, I'm retired with a modest income and there is no insurance payout.

    Thank you in advance.
    If your gonna do this more then once look into one of these..

    Comes with chains clamps etc.

    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...ystore&=Pulled

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default Probably a good idea

    Yes at $575 a pull it would probably pay for itself.

    I should have taken a pic. I used by tractor (not a big boy) with a loader, dug the front end loader edge down in the ground and put brakes on and chokes under the wheels.

    Then I put two double wire come-alongs side by side and started cranking. I was actually dragging the tractor through the gravel and the front edge of the loader was digging up the dirt. LOL.

    Still couldn't get it all pulled out.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Checkov; 12-02-2020 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Spelling

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