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Thread: 1965 Harley

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
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    8

    Default 1965 Harley

    Hi, I have been wanting to learn how to paint for years, someone pulled out in front of me on my panhead in June so I decided now was the time to learn. I do have a couple questions and some pictures bit I would like to give some more information. I have a 60 gallon compressor and an Ingersoll rand refrigerated air dryer,that is adequate for the guns I am using, I have an iwata lph400 with silver and purple caps, air gunsa 1.8 , and atd 1.4, the and 1.4 is for epoxy primer only.I am using urekem products, asiatic blue over stellar silver as this most closely matches the hi fi blue that the bike had originally. I have done in this order, epoxy primer, a little 3m filler and glazing putty, 2k primer surfacer, blocked to 600 grit, rhen the silver metallic with the purple cap layer out perfectly , I catalyzed the silver before spraying the candy at the recommended ratio. Then 4 coats of candy to get the desired color. My fenders came out beautiful, I cleared with their high solid clear. I used the silver cap for candy and clear.i actually had more difficulty with orange peal on the clear then the candy! Anyways I knew this would be a difficult job and possibly have to respray something it turns out i have to redo the gas tanks due to some runs in the candy. I plan on sanding with 600 and flow coating the clear on the fenders. The parts were all stripped to bare metal before starting. Sorry for the long post but I am new to painting and wanted to give as much info as possible.
    When sanding down to repaint the tanks do I need to go the whole way down to metal again? My silver basecoat is catalyzed?
    I was thinking that I should spray the candy over the whole tank, then a couple coats of clear, scuff the apply my white on the bottom of the tank and reclear is this the best option? On the original paint the stripe can easily be felt on these bikes and is not an issue.
    I would add that the bodywork is near to perfect with no issues, I mostly used glazing putty (3m platinum) with no shrinkage or repair mapping etc. Everything was dollied out with minimal filler 1/8" or less when needed.
    Thanks for taking the time to read through this I have been reading about painting and wanting to learn for years IMG_20201021_232057_528.jpgIMG_20201021_232057_532.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    8

    Default

    This is the 2 tone I need to do.20200915_185847.jpg The paint shown was damaged by leaking gas after the accident.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    43,055

    Default

    If the base is hardened then you shouldn't have problems with any reactions BUT you may have a ridge where the top coats are broken back. If you think you could have a ridge that will show you may want to prime and block sand those areas to remove the ridge.

    Do you plan on sanding and polishing the paint, that may be the only way to get it perfect. If so sand it with some 2500 and use a small polisher to finish the job.

    While the Iwata you're using may work well it could be a little large for that job. If it were in our shop we would probably use a smaller detail gun for that work.

    By the way it looks pretty good from here.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    8

    Default

    The fan is kinda big for the pieces I am painting with the lph400 I have been starting each pass with part of the fan overspraying to get even coverage as far as the overlap with the candy I rehearsed it beforehand I think I just got too close on the curve of both tanks, what I was hoping to do was sand them with 180 and spray them: with 2k primer surfacer then take that to 600 grit and start over, I really don't want to go down to bare metal and redo my bodywork .I was planning on flow coating the clear and then polishing I do have a da with soft interface pad, I stripped3 paintjobs off of it and it looked good before the accident so I don't think the film build will be an issue now that I think about it. Thanks for the reply

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    43,055

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 65flh View Post
    The fan is kinda big for the pieces I am painting with the lph400 I have been starting each pass with part of the fan overspraying to get even coverage as far as the overlap with the candy I rehearsed it beforehand I think I just got too close on the curve of both tanks, what I was hoping to do was sand them with 180 and spray them: with 2k primer surfacer then take that to 600 grit and start over, I really don't want to go down to bare metal and redo my bodywork .I was planning on flow coating the clear and then polishing I do have a da with soft interface pad, I stripped3 paintjobs off of it and it looked good before the accident so I don't think the film build will be an issue now that I think about it. Thanks for the reply
    I'm assuming you're planning on polishing with the DA and not sanding with it. If you need and sanding prior to polishing we would use a soft block and some 2500 wet paper.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thanks for that advice Len, I have those blocks, but I also have pads for polishing for my da I don't want to mess something up and have to redo it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Just finishing up, one more coat of clear, then the real work cut and buff. Getting the hang of this gun 9nly one small run in the clear, but next bike i paint will be with an lph80 IMG_20201118_213311_427.jpgIMG_20201118_213311_430.jpg

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